05VIII

iTrader: (17)

my buddy used royal purple for 50k miles in his truck. I told him how bad that stuff can be so we took of the valve covers just to take a peak. there was GUNK everywhere. im talking about a good 1/4 inch of gunk built up. cams looked horrible, covers looked worse. it took a scraper and about 30 min to scrape all that gunk out of there. cant imagine what it looks like down below.
RP is pretty bad if you run it for a while.

nonschlont

iTrader: (3)

Im glad I found this thread...
Has any 1 experienced this w/ redline?

I just had a turbo swap, and am experiencing the same thing, but w/ a different oil. They (not sure on the reasoning) but, they put in redline 15w-50, (asked for redline, but assumed they would know the correct weight for the stock motor) and I immediately noticed the engine sounded less smooth, and a lil bit louder... Same as you guys are experiencing...
Now my understanding is, w/ the stock motor, stock cams, etc. this is way too thick, and point of my story is I was gonna switch it out to RP 5w-30 next week, but after reading this, I think I'll try some AO 10w-40 or BP if the shop has it... Too bad no1 carries Motul, around here...
Sorry to thread jack, but w/ all of the conflicting information, just wanna make sure I get the right stuff in my motor, this time! (always used M1)
AO 10w-40 should be fine, right? This is one of the oils FP recommends (for their turbos)...

SRTRaceR04

iTrader: (24)

If you have an FP setup and a stock motor I would go with what FP tells you to do. Most of the time it's a good idea to put your faith in the (reputable) shop that builds or makes parts for your motor. In my case the guy who put my turbo kit on runs RP so it's not like he just threw it in there for the heck of it.

I think this just goes back to my original thought that with RP some people love it and some hate it. It seems to cause issues with some and others run it forever no problem.

I appreciate it Babi. Yeah if you can get me 5 quarts of it in 10-40 that would be awesome. Also if you can get me the Redline mix (I forget what the mixture is off the top of my head. like 2 quarts of 75 -90and then shockproof or something like that) for my tranny that would be great. I think this synchromesh sucks *****.

More than likely Joe's car should be arriving (being towed) Monday. I have to text Justin about that though. He's in Cali getting married, comes back for 2 weeks then is off to Okinawa for 6 months. I'm supposed to be in that area some time in the near future so I can just grab it then. With gas as high as it is right now the car will be doing more sitting than driving in the near future.

I'm not mad or anything about the oil it just sounds funny and I don't think my car is liking it very much. I didn't want to bother Justin with this question because it seemed trivial when I first posted the thread. The responses I'm getting are making me feel like it is a more important topic than I thought. The start up alone makes me shudder because of the sound it makes at first. Otherwise the car is running great. Well besides the tranny haha.

Jeffs2006EVOIX

Seems Royal Purple is getting a bad rap on this board. Its not any worse or any better than many oils on the market. The XPR series is probably one of the better oils out there. So if your using the off the shelf stuff, that may be more suited for a 90hp Civic not a built Evo 4G63. It always cracks me up when people put thousands of dollars into their motor, turbo, block, head work etc and use off the shelf oil. You folks are F*ing Crazy.

Here is the deal, and you can do whatever you want. 1) who ever built your motor, ask them for the clearance specs so you know what weight of oil to use. 2) if it is OEM spec, or your using still the OEM block, 30w oil is ALL YOU NEED. So forget the 40 or 50w oils. UNLESS specified by the Engine builder. Even then ASK.

Oils to use that are PROVEN by folks that have used them for years:

Synthetics:

Amsoil RD Series
Royal Purple XPR Series
Redline

Non Synthetics:

Valvoline VR-1 (available in synthetic, but mostly bought in Dino form)
Brad Penn Racing Oil (partial synthetic less than 30%)

Use any of these and you won't have any issues. People running the wrong viscosities, using off the shelf products with High Boost and High HP with Exotic fuels for some (E85 included) require a way more robust additive package.

Its common sense folks. Spend big money on your motor, DONT FORGET TO UPGRADE YOUR OIL TOO!!!

OldschoolEVO

iTrader: (24)

Ran RP in my car a few years back to include multiple trackdays with no problems. Only reason I'm not running it now is cause its too much of a pain to get. Those talking bad have probably been talking to A**oil to much.

crewdawg130

iTrader: (16)

ok please call me tuesday cause im picking up some then.

erald01

iTrader: (5)

I dont understand why would you want to change the oil type, the cap tells you to use mobil one??? Whats wrong with mobil one???

mifesto

iTrader: (58)

i STILL dont understand why people bother with royal purple. that stuff is garbage i wont put that in anything except for beaters...

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

no ! those who talk bad about it have been smart and educated themselves through research and scientific proof,,, most guys these days dont take the word of the salespeople they do their own homework.

SRTRaceR04

iTrader: (24)

Maybe it's just me, but your post came off a bit "I know better than everyone!" If so then it's not really a helpful way of pursuing this thread. Also off the shelf oil that costs $9 a quart is not really a good value if it doesn't work well.

Keeping it on topic will be great. One major thing though is although I slightly agree with you on the oils that you listed there are countless other people who run different types of oils and have absolutely no problems. Hell the guy I bought the car from used conventional oil for the 2 years he had the car and suffered no ill affect. Just cause one person has good answers doesn't mean it's the end all be all of answers to a problem.

And the engine builder did in fact specify 40w in winter and 50w in summer for my 2.3.

Yes I'm talking bad because I have no clue. There isn't an Evo in my driveway that sounds like horrid crap since RP was put into it. I'm making up all the noise (although other have confirmed it is in fact noisier) and I'm just here to bash RP. Although I didn't start this thread to bash the product I was simply looking for advice that means nothing because I've been talking to A**oil to (too) much.

Will do. Oh yeah, classic responses on that NASIOC thread.

If you read through the thread I mentioned something about my car eating M1. Not sure why, but my car burns M1 like it's it's job. My buddy has the same issue with his STi. I'm not using M1 based off experience not hearsay.

JDM EVO PANAMA

iTrader: (11)

Very good info on this thread thanks.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

my evo had a similar issue with redline. It would use 1/2 qt every 3k miles, everytime I was using redline. That actually is within spec, BUT.... when I switched to amsoil I havent needed to top off a drop.

SRTRaceR04

iTrader: (24)

I've liked the way that this thread has progressed. When people post real world results of what they have experienced and not just some generic junk that was ripped off from some magazine I think it really helps the community as a whole.

So far it seems like Amsoil has the least amount of issues, but there are some who still have problems with it. As general as the question "What's the best oil I should use?" is I feel that the best answers I've heard so far are very specific.

Jeffs2006EVOIX

Well I apologize to everyone if I came off as a "know it all", I am far from it. What I can tell you is I am very knowledgable about oil through countless hours of research and R&D on my own. Through the past 7 yrs and 3 Evo's later, you learn a few things. Not to mention my experience with Turbo'd cars prior to the Evo.

I have written many articles about oil on this forum and many others and its something that most people do not fully understand. I am not going to get into every detail of why certain stuff works, as why others do not. What I can tell you is you are VERY unlikely to have any type of oil related failure in your Evo if your running a 100% name brand synthetic. Noises, vibrations and other aspects are usually to blame on parts WE put on our cars. Or poor tuning. There are many variables.

Is Royal Purple a bad oil? No. Have I used it? Yes. Am I using it now? No. Am I not using it because it was junk? No. I used RP XPR for over 10K miles while using WMI. I did have lifter tick while using it, but that is normal with the use of a 40w oil on stock lifters. But the RP XPR 10/40 was designed for use with Methanol in mind, so it was a simple choice to use it.

M1 is a very good product and will work fine for most people. Even with mods. You have M1 0-40 which is a very good oil, as well as the 10/30 HM or "High Mileage" (don't think its just for old engines or high miles) is very good, as is the Red Cap 15/50. Any of these oils would work, but don't think that higher cost, equals higher quality. Just because someone paid $9 for a qt of RP doesn't mean its better than the $7 qt of M1.

Amsoil is a very good oil and many people use it. I have no bad things to say about the oil, but just the way they present it. Thats all. Amsoil RD series is probably one of the better PAO based oils for the Evo on the market.

Redline is also very good. Someone mentioned oil cunsumption with Redline. When switching to Redline that is VERY common occurance in many vehicles. After the 3 to 4th oil change, the oil consumption stops. Why that is, I am not sure. There are many theroies on it. Redline though is a very good oil and you can run it with no worries as well.

Its all about preference. Brand Loyalty. Personal Experiences. Some mechanics swear by one oil as where others say its junk. If you try an oil and you flat out don't like it for whatever reason then get rid of it and try something else by all means.

The oils I mentioned in my prior post aren't the only oils to use, I only stated that those were oils from my research have been proven to work very well in the 4G63 over the years. So you shouldn't have any problem with any of the ones I listed.

Many good oils out there, that is for sure. Just depends if you want off the shelf, special order, and what your tuner sells. Its all up to you.

crewdawg130

iTrader: (16)

call me tomorrow