burned up stock evo8 ecu
Feb 9, 2011, 02:09 PM
#2
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Looks cooked to me. If you know someone who can no surface mount repair... looks to be ~5 parts for sure and several others that will need to be checked. The printed board looks to be in ok shape.
I would source another one..if it were me. BUT if you are short on time, money and have the resources, fix it.
I would source another one..if it were me. BUT if you are short on time, money and have the resources, fix it.
Feb 9, 2011, 05:49 PM
#5
i have no idea the history of the car really ive only had it a few months, but heres the linked thread that started the search
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...-ignition.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...-ignition.html
Feb 10, 2011, 04:12 PM
#6
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What does the other side of that board look like? Any signs inside the car that could indicate water getting in to the ECU (like being submerged while driving)?
I've done board repairs on expensive home theater amps and even hand held electronics, but from my limited experience, you'd be better off in spending some time on EVO forums and calling around scrap / junk yards to buy a used ECU from the same year car. Damage can exist on components that is not visible. Trying to repair something as critical as a vehicle ECU (especially if it's damaged to this extent) may not even be possible. You could spend all your time tracing the board and never figure out exactly what went bad. Plus... how are you going to figure out what the values are on those burnt resistors if they are burnt?
I've done board repairs on expensive home theater amps and even hand held electronics, but from my limited experience, you'd be better off in spending some time on EVO forums and calling around scrap / junk yards to buy a used ECU from the same year car. Damage can exist on components that is not visible. Trying to repair something as critical as a vehicle ECU (especially if it's damaged to this extent) may not even be possible. You could spend all your time tracing the board and never figure out exactly what went bad. Plus... how are you going to figure out what the values are on those burnt resistors if they are burnt?
Feb 10, 2011, 04:49 PM
#7
Holy crap man that is burned up good.
I think before you work on that ECU you need to start looking at all the major current applications in the ecu see if they are shorted or have the wrong fuse sizes inserted.
Look for things like the o2 heater circuits, igntion coil circuits, and the alternator circuits and see if you got a direct short to ground. See if you can't trace the origin point for the hot spot on the board just look for the most burned/heated pin and then use a pin out guid to figure out what circuit it goes to.
I think before you work on that ECU you need to start looking at all the major current applications in the ecu see if they are shorted or have the wrong fuse sizes inserted.
Look for things like the o2 heater circuits, igntion coil circuits, and the alternator circuits and see if you got a direct short to ground. See if you can't trace the origin point for the hot spot on the board just look for the most burned/heated pin and then use a pin out guid to figure out what circuit it goes to.
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Feb 11, 2011, 10:51 AM
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Do you have pictures of the electrical pin connectors on the ECU? I imagine that if it's a short or something causing this, then the heat capable of doing that to your board will also give some tell-tale signs on the pin connectors.
To know for sure whether nor not the ECU is the problem is a quick swap with another one.
But given the uncertain nature of your electrical system, I'd yank all the fuses (heater, horn, etc) and physically disconnect stuff like headlights before starting the car with another ECU. Otherwise, you could end up doing the same to the other one. If you do this, monitor the wiring harness by feel. If it gets warm, shut it off immediately. THen you'll be closer to finding the real problem.
To know for sure whether nor not the ECU is the problem is a quick swap with another one.
But given the uncertain nature of your electrical system, I'd yank all the fuses (heater, horn, etc) and physically disconnect stuff like headlights before starting the car with another ECU. Otherwise, you could end up doing the same to the other one. If you do this, monitor the wiring harness by feel. If it gets warm, shut it off immediately. THen you'll be closer to finding the real problem.
Last edited by tonyk; Feb 11, 2011 at 10:54 AM.
Feb 11, 2011, 01:42 PM
#11
Do you have pictures of the electrical pin connectors on the ECU? I imagine that if it's a short or something causing this, then the heat capable of doing that to your board will also give some tell-tale signs on the pin connectors.
To know for sure whether nor not the ECU is the problem is a quick swap with another one.
But given the uncertain nature of your electrical system, I'd yank all the fuses (heater, horn, etc) and physically disconnect stuff like headlights before starting the car with another ECU. Otherwise, you could end up doing the same to the other one. If you do this, monitor the wiring harness by feel. If it gets warm, shut it off immediately. THen you'll be closer to finding the real problem.
To know for sure whether nor not the ECU is the problem is a quick swap with another one.
But given the uncertain nature of your electrical system, I'd yank all the fuses (heater, horn, etc) and physically disconnect stuff like headlights before starting the car with another ECU. Otherwise, you could end up doing the same to the other one. If you do this, monitor the wiring harness by feel. If it gets warm, shut it off immediately. THen you'll be closer to finding the real problem.
If I had another ecu -- i would try it.
Feb 11, 2011, 02:05 PM
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So, there's no one in Pittsburg with another EVO willing to help you out here (swapping)?
That way, you'll know if your ECU was bad for sure (just plop it into the other car and see if it works).
That way, you'll know if your ECU was bad for sure (just plop it into the other car and see if it works).
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