Highest Mileage Built motors and turbos??
Feb 23, 2011, 11:39 AM
#31
I also agree with everything Mikey posted above. Oil is the life blood of the car, make sure you run the correct weight for the clearances that the builder used. They probably won't divulge every engine spec, but they will recommend an oil and you would be wise to listen to their suggestions.
I have not checked my bearings yet, but eventually down the road, maybe 25k on the clock I will rip her up and take a peek. Especially with how much money we (most of us here) spend on these motors, it is correct, you would be much better served to do the maintenance early than have your rod exit stage left and have to cough up cash for another motor.
I have been impressed with the 2.1L thus far, but have read nothing but good things about the LR2.4s. Price, torque and availability of parts and short blocks is all a huge plus for these motors. You could find one yourself and pay machine shop to bring it up to spec for much cheaper then most options out there. Regardless, the 4G is a hell of a platform and it is nice to have so many options to choose from.
I have not checked my bearings yet, but eventually down the road, maybe 25k on the clock I will rip her up and take a peek. Especially with how much money we (most of us here) spend on these motors, it is correct, you would be much better served to do the maintenance early than have your rod exit stage left and have to cough up cash for another motor.
I have been impressed with the 2.1L thus far, but have read nothing but good things about the LR2.4s. Price, torque and availability of parts and short blocks is all a huge plus for these motors. You could find one yourself and pay machine shop to bring it up to spec for much cheaper then most options out there. Regardless, the 4G is a hell of a platform and it is nice to have so many options to choose from.
I am already doing another build sheet for my car that will prob get redone next spring. I would like to increase to a 159mm rod, new custom HD piston, Magnus Crank, and Magnus dry sump fitted with a 3794. It should be a very good 9k rpm car no doubt and with the 4.11 gears, it would be a sick drag car! 
Mikey
Feb 23, 2011, 12:00 PM
#32
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Ok I have a question. What about the crank? I know a lighter crank means a some what better life span on the bearings correct? And the OEM crank can take a lot. What about an aluminum crank? If you go with an aluminum crank do you have to do everything else with aluminum like rods, bearings, etc etc. Planning to do a 2.0/2.1 build on an EVO 8 but due to an accident with my car this is on the back burner for awile and maybe do a build on an EVO 9.
Ok I have a question. What about the crank? I know a lighter crank means a some what better life span on the bearings correct? And the OEM crank can take a lot. What about an aluminum crank? If you go with an aluminum crank do you have to do everything else with aluminum like rods, bearings, etc etc. Planning to do a 2.0/2.1 build on an EVO 8 but due to an accident with my car this is on the back burner for awile and maybe do a build on an EVO 9.
Feb 23, 2011, 12:05 PM
#33
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i already sent out my block to get built , 2.0 block manley h beams and pistons acl racing bearings, i wish i could of done a long rod setup instead but lers see how this does, ...
Feb 23, 2011, 12:05 PM
#34
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Ok I have a question. What about the crank? I know a lighter crank means a some what better life span on the bearings correct? And the OEM crank can take a lot. What about an aluminum crank? If you go with an aluminum crank do you have to do everything else with aluminum like rods, bearings, etc etc. Planning to do a 2.0/2.1 build on an EVO 8 but due to an accident with my car this is on the back burner for awile and maybe do a build on an EVO 9.
Ok I have a question. What about the crank? I know a lighter crank means a some what better life span on the bearings correct? And the OEM crank can take a lot. What about an aluminum crank? If you go with an aluminum crank do you have to do everything else with aluminum like rods, bearings, etc etc. Planning to do a 2.0/2.1 build on an EVO 8 but due to an accident with my car this is on the back burner for awile and maybe do a build on an EVO 9.
Mikey
Feb 23, 2011, 12:27 PM
#35
I know buschur is using a manley crank that weighs in much less than oem for his new project car according to his posts. I know that the stock crank has seen over 800wheel with no issues but it has a heavier rotating mass so slower rev. I would assume if you are building a road race vehicle that is high revving youd want more displacement and a lighter mass for even quicker response. would this be the fastest time attack motor configuration?
s1 cams
7460 turbo
lighter crank
lighter rod
simplistic descriptions but im sure itd be fast response
vs 300 m alloy rods, 6562 45 psi e85 which would be a great drag race application
it's all in the purpose the way i see it.
mikey, why are you leaving the black next spring already? damn man is the tq not damaging your neck enough? you want to wear a neck brace with the 3794?
s1 cams
7460 turbo
lighter crank
lighter rod
simplistic descriptions but im sure itd be fast response
vs 300 m alloy rods, 6562 45 psi e85 which would be a great drag race application
it's all in the purpose the way i see it.
mikey, why are you leaving the black next spring already? damn man is the tq not damaging your neck enough? you want to wear a neck brace with the 3794?
Feb 23, 2011, 12:58 PM
#37
i wonder , but dare i say is your exhaust manifold holding you back more power? is the rt ported sufficient or would a full race manifold/other manifold give you more top end?
either way you may gain 200 wheel or more with the 3794. but i dont see the purpose unless you want to break 8's and have money for plenty of doctor visits for your passengers.
any other folks want to chime in with their builds and current status of them how its holding up? If you dont mind say the builder also.
i hear buschur blocks hold up very well also. i thought about building my own but i figure i'd be off on balancing and tolerances etc since i havent built motors before
either way you may gain 200 wheel or more with the 3794. but i dont see the purpose unless you want to break 8's and have money for plenty of doctor visits for your passengers.
any other folks want to chime in with their builds and current status of them how its holding up? If you dont mind say the builder also.
i hear buschur blocks hold up very well also. i thought about building my own but i figure i'd be off on balancing and tolerances etc since i havent built motors before
Feb 23, 2011, 01:15 PM
#38
Mikey
Feb 23, 2011, 02:06 PM
#39
I may be 15whp under with the stock manifold. It is hard to say. It may even be more like 20-25whp. The collector design on the stock manifold is not made for a SS turbine housing so upgrading to a tubular with the correct collector may help a lot. We just don't know because this has not been done before. I think Collin at Toxic Fab will be making me a tubular 1.5" next month to test on my car. We will see.
Mikey
Mikey
Feb 23, 2011, 07:05 PM
#42
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2.3l built er motor
used to be at 470whp on pump 92 and a 3563 now upgrading to a 3586 and looking for 700 on race
have about 3500k miles no issues running brad penn 20w 50
used to be at 470whp on pump 92 and a 3563 now upgrading to a 3586 and looking for 700 on race
have about 3500k miles no issues running brad penn 20w 50
Feb 23, 2011, 08:08 PM
#44
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Mikey, when you were talking about your next build, you referred to the Magnus dry sump. Are you getting this because you plan on auto-crossing often or is this a great option for a dd high hp built motor?
Broham-
When you said
"One other tip would be the kiggly hla pressure regulator which connects with 3 screws and keeps the oil in the lifters to a minimum and more in the pan, this way you'll have more oil and less starvation on the bearings. Combined with more oil in the oil pan via ams you "should"have much better longevity. "
The hla pressure regulator, is that something that is installed by the oil pump? The reason I am asking is because I am a nooob at built motors and what to be sure precautions or careful steps that should be taken to help the longevity! As stated these motors are a pretty penny and I want to hopefully do it one time only!
Thanks for all the help, im trying to gather as much information as possible so I can approach my build with no cut corners and know exactly what is going on with my motor.
For example, this thread caught my eye when it was suggested bearings should be checked approx 20k(with my type of driving) and want to try to UNDERSTAND it all!!
Broham-
When you said
"One other tip would be the kiggly hla pressure regulator which connects with 3 screws and keeps the oil in the lifters to a minimum and more in the pan, this way you'll have more oil and less starvation on the bearings. Combined with more oil in the oil pan via ams you "should"have much better longevity. "
The hla pressure regulator, is that something that is installed by the oil pump? The reason I am asking is because I am a nooob at built motors and what to be sure precautions or careful steps that should be taken to help the longevity! As stated these motors are a pretty penny and I want to hopefully do it one time only!
Thanks for all the help, im trying to gather as much information as possible so I can approach my build with no cut corners and know exactly what is going on with my motor.
For example, this thread caught my eye when it was suggested bearings should be checked approx 20k(with my type of driving) and want to try to UNDERSTAND it all!!
Last edited by NOMIEZVR4; Feb 23, 2011 at 08:12 PM.
Feb 24, 2011, 05:10 AM
#45
Mikey, when you were talking about your next build, you referred to the Magnus dry sump. Are you getting this because you plan on auto-crossing often or is this a great option for a dd high hp built motor?
Broham-
When you said
"One other tip would be the kiggly hla pressure regulator which connects with 3 screws and keeps the oil in the lifters to a minimum and more in the pan, this way you'll have more oil and less starvation on the bearings. Combined with more oil in the oil pan via ams you "should"have much better longevity. "
The hla pressure regulator, is that something that is installed by the oil pump? The reason I am asking is because I am a nooob at built motors and what to be sure precautions or careful steps that should be taken to help the longevity! As stated these motors are a pretty penny and I want to hopefully do it one time only!
Thanks for all the help, im trying to gather as much information as possible so I can approach my build with no cut corners and know exactly what is going on with my motor.
For example, this thread caught my eye when it was suggested bearings should be checked approx 20k(with my type of driving) and want to try to UNDERSTAND it all!!
Broham-
When you said
"One other tip would be the kiggly hla pressure regulator which connects with 3 screws and keeps the oil in the lifters to a minimum and more in the pan, this way you'll have more oil and less starvation on the bearings. Combined with more oil in the oil pan via ams you "should"have much better longevity. "
The hla pressure regulator, is that something that is installed by the oil pump? The reason I am asking is because I am a nooob at built motors and what to be sure precautions or careful steps that should be taken to help the longevity! As stated these motors are a pretty penny and I want to hopefully do it one time only!
Thanks for all the help, im trying to gather as much information as possible so I can approach my build with no cut corners and know exactly what is going on with my motor.
For example, this thread caught my eye when it was suggested bearings should be checked approx 20k(with my type of driving) and want to try to UNDERSTAND it all!!
Also the Kiggly HLA installs under the valve cover on top of the head limiting oil flow into the head and keeps a steady 15 psi pressure in the head. it is a VERY easy 10-15min install.
Mikey