Highest Mileage Built motors and turbos??
#46
guys, thanks for the responses and it seems like everyone is putting some good mileage and going strong. 3k, 3200 etc. But sharkbite brings an interesting point. Since the topic is motors and "TURBOS" do you feel that the turbos haven't lasted like the motors. AN example would be an fp red blowing at 1000 miles on a built motor but the motor was fine. In that regard, do you feel that ball bearing turbos generally outlast the journal? thoughts?
nomi, Like mikey indicated it's an easy install. In this other thread mikey posted an installed pic so you can see, post #73: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...h-doing-5.html
FOr not cutting corners, i'd say to mod the oil pan or get an ams one, get the regulator, make sure to use a reputable builder for these motors and use the correct oil. Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is to follow the builders break in directions so you don't stomp on it from mile 1. other than that just keep reading here as there is a wealth of info and i'll try my best to pick some of these folks brains
nomi, Like mikey indicated it's an easy install. In this other thread mikey posted an installed pic so you can see, post #73: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...h-doing-5.html
FOr not cutting corners, i'd say to mod the oil pan or get an ams one, get the regulator, make sure to use a reputable builder for these motors and use the correct oil. Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is to follow the builders break in directions so you don't stomp on it from mile 1. other than that just keep reading here as there is a wealth of info and i'll try my best to pick some of these folks brains
Last edited by BLKCarbonEVO; Feb 24, 2011 at 05:31 AM.
#49
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
2.3L Eagle Rods-Wisco Combo .20 over, 4G64 crank, HTA82 17,000 Miles 510+whp 435wtq 93 pump DD Zero issues Brad Penn 20W-50 Changed every 1500-2000 miles since day 1. No track time as of yet, but I do driver it hard occasional pulls and launches. I recently had to Replace my at Oil Pan 14,000 Miles (Due to Leak under scuff plate) and took a chance to check things out Cylinder walls crank and bearings good as the day there were put in. Not high Mileage or High HP, but just for Reference.
Last edited by Ricekiller81; Feb 24, 2011 at 08:48 AM.
#50
rice, thanks for that detailed description. 17k miles with that power and tq on that combo is excellent! That should shed light that eagle rods are infact good and the 4g64 crank is more than capable of supporting big power. Did you upgrade the oil pan or just get a new mitsu pan? How is your turbo holding up after 17k miles? no issues i assume. whose turbo kit are you running? manifold etc
#51
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
The Oil Pan I had a spare block so I replaced it with a Used OEM Mitsu one. The Turbo is running Great man. One thing I love about is I also have the option to upgrade to an HTA86 for $600 bucks from FP if I ever wanted to make more power on pump gas Other then that the way it still more then enough for me right now for a DD. The Turbo Kit is a re-welded Ebay T3 kit cant trust them China Welds Eventually going with a real kit if it fails.
Last edited by Ricekiller81; Feb 24, 2011 at 09:08 AM.
#52
Evolved Member
iTrader: (50)
Well I have a Buschur 2.4, JE pistons/Manley TT rods... I have about 2500 miles on the motor now and it is running very strong for the restrictions I still have on the car (Stock IM/throttle body). The tune that is on it now is 450hp/450tq at 26 psi. I have been using Brad Penn 20-50 since the break in on VR-1 20-50. I will post up some more when I get some more miles on the car...
Two things to add that are must haves/must do's...
1. Fluidampr or the ATI damper end of story...
2. If you have a stock frame FP turbo with upgraded oil line make sure and check the mesh filter every other oil change. If you have break in material stuck in it, oil isn't getting to the turbo...
Two things to add that are must haves/must do's...
1. Fluidampr or the ATI damper end of story...
2. If you have a stock frame FP turbo with upgraded oil line make sure and check the mesh filter every other oil change. If you have break in material stuck in it, oil isn't getting to the turbo...
#53
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
I'm running stock crank and MAP has 1000whp on stock crank. I think the verdict to why the stock 4G64 cranks fail (has been a few) is during a launch when oil starvation occurs. Obviously the mods we have been talking about (AMS Pan/Kiggly HLA) should help fix this problem...
Mikey
#55
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Well I have a Buschur 2.4, JE pistons/Manley TT rods... I have about 2500 miles on the motor now and it is running very strong for the restrictions I still have on the car (Stock IM/throttle body). The tune that is on it now is 450hp/450tq at 26 psi. I have been using Brad Penn 20-50 since the break in on VR-1 20-50. I will post up some more when I get some more miles on the car...
Two things to add that are must haves/must do's...
1. Fluidampr or the ATI damper end of story...
2. If you have a stock frame FP turbo with upgraded oil line make sure and check the mesh filter every other oil change. If you have break in material stuck in it, oil isn't getting to the turbo...
Two things to add that are must haves/must do's...
1. Fluidampr or the ATI damper end of story...
2. If you have a stock frame FP turbo with upgraded oil line make sure and check the mesh filter every other oil change. If you have break in material stuck in it, oil isn't getting to the turbo...
Sore subject so don't need to bring it up in here but shoot me a pm about why and who recommended the Fluidampr? I always ran them on my Honda's but since I have been in the evo community a lot of rep shops say "stay away".
Mikey
#60
Evolved Member
iTrader: (21)
guys, thanks for the responses and it seems like everyone is putting some good mileage and going strong. 3k, 3200 etc. But sharkbite brings an interesting point. Since the topic is motors and "TURBOS" do you feel that the turbos haven't lasted like the motors. AN example would be an fp red blowing at 1000 miles on a built motor but the motor was fine. In that regard, do you feel that ball bearing turbos generally outlast the journal? thoughts?
nomi, Like mikey indicated it's an easy install. In this other thread mikey posted an installed pic so you can see, post #73: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...h-doing-5.html
FOr not cutting corners, i'd say to mod the oil pan or get an ams one, get the regulator, make sure to use a reputable builder for these motors and use the correct oil. Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is to follow the builders break in directions so you don't stomp on it from mile 1. other than that just keep reading here as there is a wealth of info and i'll try my best to pick some of these folks brains
nomi, Like mikey indicated it's an easy install. In this other thread mikey posted an installed pic so you can see, post #73: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...h-doing-5.html
FOr not cutting corners, i'd say to mod the oil pan or get an ams one, get the regulator, make sure to use a reputable builder for these motors and use the correct oil. Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is to follow the builders break in directions so you don't stomp on it from mile 1. other than that just keep reading here as there is a wealth of info and i'll try my best to pick some of these folks brains