Engine break- in Oil, high zinc
#1
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From: digging for oil
Engine break- in Oil, high zinc
Just wanted to make you guys aware that a together with all the new oil's that came out this spring we have also added the break in oil.
Quickly Seats Rings
The primary goal during engine break-in is to seat the rings against the cylinder wall. Properly seated rings increase compression, resulting in maximum horsepower; they reduce oil consumption and prevent hot combustion gases from entering the crankcase. To achieve this, however, the oil must allow the correct level of “controlled wear” to occur between the cylinder wall/ring interface while maintaining wear protection on other critical engine parts. Insufficient break-in leaves behind peaks on the cylinder wall that prevent the rings from seating. The deeper valleys, meanwhile, allow excess oil to collect and burn during combustion, increasing oil consumption. Too much wear results in cylinder glazing due to peaks “rolling over” into the valleys and preventing oil from collecting and adequately lubricating the cylinder wall.
AMSOIL Break-In Oil’s friction-modifier-free formula allows the sharp peaks on newly honed cylinder walls (fig. 1) to partially flatten. The result produces more surface area for rings to seat against, allowing formation of a dynamic seal that increases compression, horsepower and torque (fig. 2).
RECOMMENDATIONS
The engine builder’s or manufacturer’s break-in recommendations should be followed if available. Break-in period should not exceed 1,000 miles. When the rings fail to seat, the exhaust ports will have a large area of oil residue (Fig. 3). As the rings begin this process, less oil is passed and the oil residue area begins to shrink (Fig. 4). When the rings are fully seated and have formed a tight seal against the cylinder walls, no oil residue will be evident. Other common methods to determine if rings have seated include performing a leak-down test or horsepower measurements over time. Break-in duration will vary between engines. Afterwards, drain and fill the engine with an AMSOIL high-performance synthetic oil that meets builder or manufacturer specifications
Quickly Seats Rings
The primary goal during engine break-in is to seat the rings against the cylinder wall. Properly seated rings increase compression, resulting in maximum horsepower; they reduce oil consumption and prevent hot combustion gases from entering the crankcase. To achieve this, however, the oil must allow the correct level of “controlled wear” to occur between the cylinder wall/ring interface while maintaining wear protection on other critical engine parts. Insufficient break-in leaves behind peaks on the cylinder wall that prevent the rings from seating. The deeper valleys, meanwhile, allow excess oil to collect and burn during combustion, increasing oil consumption. Too much wear results in cylinder glazing due to peaks “rolling over” into the valleys and preventing oil from collecting and adequately lubricating the cylinder wall.
AMSOIL Break-In Oil’s friction-modifier-free formula allows the sharp peaks on newly honed cylinder walls (fig. 1) to partially flatten. The result produces more surface area for rings to seat against, allowing formation of a dynamic seal that increases compression, horsepower and torque (fig. 2).
RECOMMENDATIONS
The engine builder’s or manufacturer’s break-in recommendations should be followed if available. Break-in period should not exceed 1,000 miles. When the rings fail to seat, the exhaust ports will have a large area of oil residue (Fig. 3). As the rings begin this process, less oil is passed and the oil residue area begins to shrink (Fig. 4). When the rings are fully seated and have formed a tight seal against the cylinder walls, no oil residue will be evident. Other common methods to determine if rings have seated include performing a leak-down test or horsepower measurements over time. Break-in duration will vary between engines. Afterwards, drain and fill the engine with an AMSOIL high-performance synthetic oil that meets builder or manufacturer specifications
#4
yeah I was just looking at this stuff!
So this is a full mineral oil yes?
How many miles should I be using this for after break-in?
Would it be a waste to fill up with this for initial startup, then dump it and the filter after 10km's? And then fill up again with it?
So this is a full mineral oil yes?
How many miles should I be using this for after break-in?
Would it be a waste to fill up with this for initial startup, then dump it and the filter after 10km's? And then fill up again with it?
#5
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From: digging for oil
yeah I was just looking at this stuff!
So this is a full mineral oil yes? Yes it is a conventional oil, which is what should be used for break-in periods.
How many miles should I be using this for after break-in? 1,000 miles is what we tell you guys to run it for, most wear ocurs soon early in the engine life
Would it be a waste to fill up with this for initial startup, then dump it and the filter after 10km's? And then fill up again with it? YES i do agree it would be a waste to run it for 10km's and then dump it and then fill up again with more break in oil.
So this is a full mineral oil yes? Yes it is a conventional oil, which is what should be used for break-in periods.
How many miles should I be using this for after break-in? 1,000 miles is what we tell you guys to run it for, most wear ocurs soon early in the engine life
Would it be a waste to fill up with this for initial startup, then dump it and the filter after 10km's? And then fill up again with it? YES i do agree it would be a waste to run it for 10km's and then dump it and then fill up again with more break in oil.
Answers are in your message in blue.
Andy
#7
well I ran this stuff for 30km's and dumped it with the filter.
The colour had changed drastically, it was a brown instead of the nice red.
We filtered out the oil and there were a few pieces of tiny particles. I would guess a LOT of micro particles that we cant see.
I have 200km on the motor so far, and would love to be able to change the oil/filter again at 500km (and then run it until 1000km before changing to synth)
But we shall see - I should have done the math at the start and realised I needed 15qt's (not 12)
The colour had changed drastically, it was a brown instead of the nice red.
We filtered out the oil and there were a few pieces of tiny particles. I would guess a LOT of micro particles that we cant see.
I have 200km on the motor so far, and would love to be able to change the oil/filter again at 500km (and then run it until 1000km before changing to synth)
But we shall see - I should have done the math at the start and realised I needed 15qt's (not 12)
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