My Engine blew tonight!
Jun 3, 2011, 08:34 AM
#16
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your goal of mid 11s in the 1/4 on pump are VERY doable with a mild build. Since you air-holded your block the cheapest option to get you back up and running is a 4g64 setup. If i were you I would first find out exactly what caused the first motor to pop before diving into the next build. losing a motor can be an expensive lesson and even more expensive if you don't learn from your mistakes the first time around... good luck 
Jun 3, 2011, 09:03 AM
#18
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Your best bet would be a 2.4L because the core's are cheap and that would help keep the cost down. The 4g64 long rod setup is great for high rev's and could put you into the 11's without a problem.
Jun 3, 2011, 09:06 AM
#19
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If anyone has Chad Block's Private Line on speed dial please let him know to reach out to me. I took off work to try to get my car towed today. Next possible day I could pull this off would be a week from now. Thanks!
Jun 3, 2011, 09:17 AM
#21
your goal of mid 11s in the 1/4 on pump are VERY doable with a mild build. Since you air-holded your block the cheapest option to get you back up and running is a 4g64 setup. If i were you I would first find out exactly what caused the first motor to pop before diving into the next build. losing a motor can be an expensive lesson and even more expensive if you don't learn from your mistakes the first time around... good luck
Jun 3, 2011, 10:07 AM
#23
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Love this information right here. Find out why it failed so it does not happen with the new motor otherwise you might be repeting the same event again. I would sugguest getting a 2.4 as well since your block is toast. I got a 2.4 and never looked back but my block was not toast in your case u want to make sure all the other parts are good to go. Also it will cost you more then 3k on top to get this going installation labor machine work parts etc not to mention your head might have damage as well. so plan on spending north of 5k
Jun 3, 2011, 11:43 AM
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I just installed a Synapse DV earlier last night and after the first run I lowered the boost as it might have overboosted on that run. It was snappy and accelerated quicker than I remember and then gave a few pop sounds out the exhaust so I let off. Not sure if it was overboost or spark issue. Right after that pull I lowered it and it was hitting at 22psi.
I was going to regap the plugs down to .021 from .024 and reflash an older tune onto the car, but the engine was pretty hot after getting on it. Figured I'd wait until today to do it. (Wish I opted to burn my hands instead) Last night I went out to get some groceries, went to get on it and it happened. I have no clue what the boost was, but have no reason to believe it was higher than 22psi since I didn't touch the MBC. I will say that I got on it in 2nd slightly, but shifted to third and went WOT. It definitely pulled like an animal. I don't know if a BOV could make a change like that, but it seriously felt insane for a split second and then smoke and it turned my smile to a frown. If I learned anything I'm guessing the previous crushed MR valve was leaking since the boost seemed to jump up after installing the synapse.
Jun 3, 2011, 12:38 PM
#27
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Yeah, I'd also go 2.4 since you have no core.
Also, remember the random parts like cam gears, fresh gaskets, 2.4L head gasket, belts, all new fluids, new pumps, etc. Those parts alone will run you $1000-$1500 depending on what you go with. If you're going to have a shop install the block, count on it being somewhere around $2500-$3000 just for labor.
Good luck man, it gets expensive very quick.
Also, remember the random parts like cam gears, fresh gaskets, 2.4L head gasket, belts, all new fluids, new pumps, etc. Those parts alone will run you $1000-$1500 depending on what you go with. If you're going to have a shop install the block, count on it being somewhere around $2500-$3000 just for labor.
Good luck man, it gets expensive very quick.
Jun 3, 2011, 01:16 PM
#28
Yeah, I'd also go 2.4 since you have no core.
Also, remember the random parts like cam gears, fresh gaskets, 2.4L head gasket, belts, all new fluids, new pumps, etc. Those parts alone will run you $1000-$1500 depending on what you go with. If you're going to have a shop install the block, count on it being somewhere around $2500-$3000 just for labor.
Good luck man, it gets expensive very quick.
Also, remember the random parts like cam gears, fresh gaskets, 2.4L head gasket, belts, all new fluids, new pumps, etc. Those parts alone will run you $1000-$1500 depending on what you go with. If you're going to have a shop install the block, count on it being somewhere around $2500-$3000 just for labor.
Good luck man, it gets expensive very quick.
. You will surpass 3k easily
Jun 3, 2011, 02:00 PM
#29
Amen, I just got done building a 2.4L for my Evo. While it's cheaper than sourcing another Evo block, it still all adds up with new pulleys, tensioner, oil pump, front cover, adjustable cam gears, belts, gaskets, machining. You're probably looking $4500+ to have it done. I think mine came in around a little over $2500 doing all the work myself.
Jun 3, 2011, 05:17 PM
#30
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I think some of you misunderstood me.
"I'd like to spend the least amount possible to get it running on a stock engine, but could probably handle $2-$3,000 extra on a setup that would be much safer."
So if it costs x amount of $$$ to get back to stock I'd possibly spend $2-$3k more if there are benefits to do so. I'm basically looking to avoid this situation again at all costs.
"I'd like to spend the least amount possible to get it running on a stock engine, but could probably handle $2-$3,000 extra on a setup that would be much safer."
So if it costs x amount of $$$ to get back to stock I'd possibly spend $2-$3k more if there are benefits to do so. I'm basically looking to avoid this situation again at all costs.