Stop&TurnFreak

First off, I am new here, so I give you a heardy welcome. However, I come seeking answers. I recently attended my first track event, and had some serious heating issues. Now, it was 29 degrees outside, and I was getting a high charge temp, and the engine seemed to be heating as well.

Now, the car was in totally stock trim, and I must say, it is quite the performer. The guys in the club were, for the most part, in awe of the car's abilities. I probably was pushing the car 85% of what it could do, due to lack of safety equipment. Even then, I never was passed, and was able to get around many 911, 996, Boxster S, and other very well prepped Porsches.

Anyway, the car is in stock trim, meaning it was tight, which would generate some of the heat problems. The second day, it rained, and the temp came down as I was able to drift (not freaky drift, but hang the butt end out), which made the car about 15 mph faster on the straights, and the temp lowered by about 20' degrees C on the charge, couldn't measuure the engine with any degree of accuracy.

What things have you hardcore track/autocross guys done to manage this? Also, I found shifting around 6 to be best, as the power noses down after that. What mods do you guys recommend? I don't think I am going to mess with the engine yet, I am thinking adjustable bars front and rear, and some coil-overs. Any recommnedations? Also, the brakes on this car are good, but for you modded guys, what have you upgraded too?

4G63>OOOO

iTrader: (1)

For the track, I would upgrade wherever you feel is lacking, including the cooling system. I have done the Buschur Stage IV, which is a nice upgrade for the track, because it includes a nice big intercooler and shorter IC plumbing. I am also going for an aluminum radiator before it gets warm again. As for brakes, do stainless lines, motul 600, then decide if you need a more aggressive pad or not. The calipers are up to the task, though, I wouldn't touch em.

Chris in HB

iTrader: (3)

I added 2-piece slotted rotors to the above...

rsa964

iTrader: (1)

Glad you had a good time at the track. Couple of questions -What do you mean by 'high charge temp'? How high did the temp guage go? What group level did you run in and at what track?

I agree with the other posts - change the brake fluid and I have seen some brake cooling air dirverters that may be useful if you change to a more aggressive brake pad.

EvoNick

I've got 50+ track days total, and maybe 10 on the EVO. I've run the car VERY hard in 37 degrees (that's 100 for us US folk), and never run into overheating problems.

If you're overheating on a 29/84 degree day, have your car checked...

And what do you mean by "charge" temp? Here in the US, we only have a engine temp gauge, so how are you keeping track of charge temp? I assume you're talking about the intake tract temp.

As for brakes, the calipers are definitely up to the task, but the brake cooling system is not. Every EVO I've seen tracked has dark burgundy, not red, calipers, due to excessive heat buildup. My dust seals cracked after only 2 events, and on my previous EVO, they were toast after 8 events. (Yes, brake air guides on both cars - waste of time/money)

I'm going to try ducting, and maybe water coolong after that if it doesn't solve the problem. Otherwise I'll just figure a caliper rebuild every 10 events or so.

Stop&TurnFreak

I have about 300 track events total, if you count the racing I did as a kid before I was 'legal'. I have done testing for several teams in the US, and was approached by an F1 recruit before college. Dropped the ball because I fell in "love".

Back to the point, I agree ducting and pads would be fine up to a point, what I was wondering is what you guys with the 500+ setups are using, I have seen two sites where they upgraded. I don't see the brakes holding, because on my old car, I had bigger brembos up front on my older car, and I could fry them in about 4 laps if I drove to the 100% of the car. However, the car was a little heavier, and was making 500 horsepower.

Also, did you guys doing any bracing front and rear? Also, who in the US makes a good cage, or should I plan on having one fabbed?

ANA EVO 8

Good Morning,

Some early this week (?) started a thread about an EVO at a PCA event. He noted that the driver was real good and had the opportunity for an F1 try out (?).

He noted that the EVO was flying and was one of the fastest out there. Also note that the Porsche guys were, um, Porsche guys.

Might this be you? Welcome to the forum. I auto-x and track mine as well.

Let me know what you mean by the "Charge" as well. Thanks and welcome

Kayaalp

iTrader: (1)

Can't really figure out what you mean by "tight" in this context. Do you mean the engine is not broken in yet?

Not to be a smartass, but if you were picking up 15 mph (!!!) on the straights from drifting rather than cornering properly, that shows you're far from the cornering limit of the car from turn-in to apex. Since you're not yet at the limit of the stock suspension, it doesn't make much sense to upgrade the suspension yet. The stock set-up is very well-balanced and very effective (even if the ride height is a bit higher than you'd like for real track use).

A good 4-wheel alignment, including adjustment of camber and toe will go a long way to improving your performance in that critical zone between turn-in and apex. I would do that first. Then practice driving to the limit of the suspension. Once you can drive better than the stock suspension allows in the dry, only then does it make sense to swap out suspension components.

As for the brakes, EvoNick is 100% correct in my opinion. Mitsu gave us calipers and rotors that are up to the task, but really horrible cooling. Those optional brake cooling wings are totally useless. You need to duct cold air right into the center of the rotor so it can be pushed out through the vents and cool it down properly. Every track car I've ever owned/driven had benefitted from this. I'm sure someone will produce a backing plate that will allow proper ducting. If not, you'll end up having to remove your splash-guards, cut out a hole, and weld on a neck that you can attach a hose to. We've done this on a few BMW's and it works very well.

HTH,

Emre

Stop&TurnFreak

Intake temp on the engine. My other car was very sensative to this, so I thought the evo would be too.

DynoKing

No need to change the rotors or big reds. I would go with a better pad and add the mitsu air guides to the car as well as good fluid. SS lines do NOTHING, you MAY think they do something but it's more bs then anything. Rotors may help with less unsprung weight but it does not help stopping. I have about 420HP with my car and some REALLY good pads and getting air to the calipers is the key. These calipers are the same that are on the Ferrari F40 if that tells you anything.

BadBoyBeltran

iTrader: (3)

Maybe you should try the WORKS Water Injection for all of US!!!

fastmarsh

Good Morning,

Just saw the post and I realize some pedal fad at the end of a session. It's not that bad, but I'm going with the fluid and pad change for the brakes.

I run mine in autocross as well and haven't had any problems. Shortly I'll be making these changes and then I'll post up and let you know.

Stop&TurnFreak

Dyno King is the Vishnu all you have done? 420 is impressive, their site claims less, you must have a good tune, or some other 'goodies'.

I will change the pads, and go with the ducts. Air seems to help everything.

Thanks for the post, a good friend set me up to this site, and he was right good folks..

mojo

iTrader: (4)

You might check out the new WORKS water injection. Looks like it will help temp allot on the track.

shiv@vishnu

iTrader: (20)

How high did your charge temps go?

Shiv