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Boost Leak Test FAILED! HELP.

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Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by EvoJoeIX
and again you would still be wrong... theres no need to plug that
+1
Not to mention that then you would miss the #1 culprit of boost leaks on our cars the damn TB Shaft Seals
Old Jun 23, 2011, 10:53 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by EvoJoeIX
if your throttle body is stuck open, you have other issues.....
and why not read his post where he says the car idles like a champ, obviously it wouldnt if the throttle body is stuck open

your not pressurizing the engine on a boost leak test. THAT IS CALLED A LEAK DOWN TEST. a boost leak is test is just pressuring the the entire cold side of the turbo system

i guess i been doing all my boost leak tests completely wrong. i mean even when CBRD did my boost leak test before they tuned it, they did it the same exact way i do them. they didnt plug my exhaust, they didnt put my motor at TDC and they didnt plug and lines on the intake manifold. they simply drove my car in the shop and put the tester on the inlet of the turbo, and they came up with the same exact results as i did when i tested it before i took it there. no leaks at all, imagine that
I don't plug the exhaust when I do a boost leak test either, but I also can't imagine a leak so big that he can't build any pressure unless he's using a bicycle pump or something, or an IC pipe is completely disconnected/something similarly obvious. Hence why I suggested plugging the exhaust to see if it's going out there where you won't hear it at the other end of the car. Even when my EGR hose was completely disconnected I built enough pressure for it to hiss a few seconds after the compressor was off.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 11:48 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mirkendargen
I don't plug the exhaust when I do a boost leak test either, but I also can't imagine a leak so big that he can't build any pressure unless he's using a bicycle pump or something, or an IC pipe is completely disconnected/something similarly obvious. Hence why I suggested plugging the exhaust to see if it's going out there where you won't hear it at the other end of the car. Even when my EGR hose was completely disconnected I built enough pressure for it to hiss a few seconds after the compressor was off.
We used a 120 gallon compressor
Old Jun 23, 2011, 11:50 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by gsrboi80
Doh

No need to plug off any UICP. No need to put motor at TDC or anything silly like that.

Likely if you cannot get pressure in the system Id look here first and foremost.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/9082372-post6.html

Thanks again to Mr. Bryan for the diagram
This help big time thanks
Old Jun 23, 2011, 12:04 PM
  #35  
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Yep the EGR has two hoses. That diagram helped me out a few weeks ago. I thought the EGR was on the right side of the IM not behind it on the right side. I misses the the one hoes on the side. I had a CEL light too . I was only able to get about 2 psi, i could not hear it as well and air was coming out the exhaust as well.





Athanasios
Old Jun 23, 2011, 12:09 PM
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Yeah, there's zero need to plug anything off or set the engine to TDC. Every test I've done, I just slapped the tester on the turbo inlet and opened the regulator valve on the line, then kinked the line to the MBC. I've tested my own car to 27psi in this manner and it holds it just fine, it doesn't come out the exhaust, it doesn't come out the dipstick tube, it stays in the charge piping.

Are you filling through a valve stem or an air line fitting? Valve stem won't fill a system with a large leak fast enough to find it.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 12:18 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 350Z_2_Evo8
This help big time thanks
Glad to help man
Old Jun 23, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Only thing i have ever had to pinch was the barb on the drivers side of the vc....been doing it that way since 96' lol. OP when you get pressure finally building look for obvious leaks...THEN remove your TB and replace the seals...the stock ones ALWAYS fail...GL
Old Jun 23, 2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cmspaz
Yeah, there's zero need to plug anything off or set the engine to TDC. Every test I've done, I just slapped the tester on the turbo inlet and opened the regulator valve on the line, then kinked the line to the MBC. I've tested my own car to 27psi in this manner and it holds it just fine, it doesn't come out the exhaust, it doesn't come out the dipstick tube, it stays in the charge piping.

Are you filling through a valve stem or an air line fitting? Valve stem won't fill a system with a large leak fast enough to find it.
We used a valve stem...
Old Jun 23, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BoostINurI
Only thing i have ever had to pinch was the barb on the drivers side of the vc....been doing it that way since 96' lol. OP when you get pressure finally building look for obvious leaks...THEN remove your TB and replace the seals...the stock ones ALWAYS fail...GL
Thanks i will need a lot of luck...lolz
Old Jun 23, 2011, 02:26 PM
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Never liked using valve stems. I use 1/4 quick connects on my compressor and tester cap.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 02:34 PM
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I am a little late but it is definitely your egr valve like others have told you.
Old Jun 23, 2011, 03:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RevMoto
I am a little late but it is definitely your egr valve like others have told you.
Gotcha thanks!
Old Jun 23, 2011, 04:13 PM
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the 2 egr hose are behind the throttle body correct?
Old Jun 23, 2011, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bbyevo8u
the 2 egr hose are behind the throttle body correct?
Beneath is a more accurate location, but yes.

And if it's the EGR hoses, there's this little thing on the dash call a MIL that will light up and tell you

Last edited by cmspaz; Jun 23, 2011 at 08:03 PM.


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