CardShark

Is this correct? Would running E85 bring my HC's down? I don't mind doing that since I would only have to retune for idle and 2500 rpm

acidtonic

iTrader: (1)

I'm completely talking off the top of my head here, but.....

Can't you force open loop and run slightly leaner, like 15.2 at idle? I've never been smogged but I don't think they check your AFRs do they? Retard your cam with mivec and perhaps open up your spark plug gap beyond what you normally would use.

I'd toss in new plugs too, run as large of a gap as you can before misfiring below 2500rpm. You only need these plugs to go from idle to 2500rpm.... they do not need to see boost or high rpm. You can run a much stronger spark that way even though it would blow out on boost.

That should help you burn more fuel at idle. You may want to upgrade the ignition too with something like a Sparktech nonCDI or the Spoolinup COP.... then you could run even larger gaps and have a really strong spark.

Good Luck!

b16a2delsol

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you 0 out any mivec advance during idle. You could try changing your injector scaling ( even though you have yours dialed in) to try and lean then out slightly. I noticed while dialing in my injectors that if my scaling was too small of a number my afrs were more likely to go on the richer side of things while in closed loop 14.2-14.7, now that I have raised the scaling it is leaner 14.7-15.2. Might be silly advice but worth a shot lol.

Boosted Tuning

iTrader: (12)

I too have seen people pass with cams, but usually only mild HKS cams and GSC S1's. I believe the FP cams are a lil to aggressive to pass CA smog.

CardShark

Thanks for the tips....I'm definitely going to run the mixture much leaner at idle....my NOx levels are nonexistent so this should be fine...I'm gonna wire in my Wideband tonight

CardShark

I didn't realize that my cams were considered that aggressive...I thought the 4R's were considered FP's "street" cam

Am I mistaken or were you confusing my cams with FP's 5R cams?

CardShark

I'm definitely going to zero out the Mivec advance at idle....thanks for the help

acidtonic

iTrader: (1)

That will certainely help. Just make sure if you run lean, that you don't have any type of misfire or studder from running lean as a single missed ignition would likely produce more smog than no miss at stoich.

I've also heard of people modifying the MIVEC min/max advance to sneak another degree or two of retard into the system. So instead of running 0 advance, you'd run more like -1 to -2 degrees which should further help the idle quality and emissions. (see warning below)

Big *warning* about that however, research it yourself and do not simply do that because I mentioned it. I have no idea what kind of clearances you have with those cams and if any more retard would be safe. I've seen a thread where someone added advance for a 4g64 block with the Evo head. That was done by actually cutting into the MIVEC plate to allow more rotation. There's a thread here on it. For extra room to retard, you might not have to do anything except modify the tune but I'm not sure as I've never done it.

Turn9

Again... seeing people suggesting going lean, sure that may help a little, but the mixture is already in the exhaust, so not a lot. I didn't realize you had MIVEC, obviously limiting the valve overlap is the key here. I would also raise the "idle" as high as you can without looking ridiculous. Is there a limit to how high the RPMs can go during an idle test? If not, you should be able to pass with a combination of all these suggestions.