Am I getting way too in over my head?
#106
Evolved Member
iTrader: (78)
Relax my friend. I know most people would recommend the 2.3 over the 2.0 because of the added torque which would be great for a DD.
My problem is this. There is next to no documentation of a 2.3 or 2.4 lasting more than 25,000 miles. What is your claim of 100K based on? I have found ZERO facts on that.
I wanted to go with the safest non stock setup and that's why I picked the 2.0. I'll admit that I don't know much when it comes to this stuff, but knowing the rod angle changes and puts address pressure on the side wall bothers me. Also I'm told the piston speed is much faster which is supposedly not a good thing.
One thing I learned is that on this site most people recommend going with what they have. I guess people don't want to admit that there are other good options. I decided not to jump on the bandwagon and go with my gut feeling.
If anything my choice of the 2.0 for DD can be documented for others to learn from since it doesn't seem common these days.
So in a nutshell a 2.3/2.4 seemed a bit risky to me. It's just my opinion. I'm hoping to get at least 50,000 miles out of this setup. I'd be happy.
My problem is this. There is next to no documentation of a 2.3 or 2.4 lasting more than 25,000 miles. What is your claim of 100K based on? I have found ZERO facts on that.
I wanted to go with the safest non stock setup and that's why I picked the 2.0. I'll admit that I don't know much when it comes to this stuff, but knowing the rod angle changes and puts address pressure on the side wall bothers me. Also I'm told the piston speed is much faster which is supposedly not a good thing.
One thing I learned is that on this site most people recommend going with what they have. I guess people don't want to admit that there are other good options. I decided not to jump on the bandwagon and go with my gut feeling.
If anything my choice of the 2.0 for DD can be documented for others to learn from since it doesn't seem common these days.
So in a nutshell a 2.3/2.4 seemed a bit risky to me. It's just my opinion. I'm hoping to get at least 50,000 miles out of this setup. I'd be happy.
as already stated if you search you will find several buschur motor and other etc that have lasted 100k LOL even some on 50k you have to search around there actually is a thread somebody made asking and people chimed in
#107
Evolving Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lancaster, PA.
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rs-turbos.html
I'm not saying I don't believe you, but I have yet to find an owner with hard facts. Just speculation from everyone with an opinion.
#109
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Phillipsburg, NJ
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Adam the best thing you can do is sell those parts and use the money for hpde's. You won't regret it. Having a venue to safely push your car to it'd limits is so much more fun than having gobs of power you rarely need/use
#110
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
I think the reasons are logical, but unexpected, which is what you may be trying to say. A guy does a major build, spends umpteen K, and still has a ~3200lb car with a 2-2.4L motor. Except...now it's temperamental, unreliable, has an unusable powerband on the street. A car that was once fun to drive is now a chore to maneuver around. It's not even that great being in it: rock-hard suspension, almost solid motor mounts and bushings, and a bank vault would start to rattle. There's only one benefactor in all this - a hobby in itself. Well, that and the vendors. I bet most can't remember, or just don't know, how great the car was to drive bone stock.
#112
Evolved Member
iTrader: (78)
You dont buy all your mods on credit and you will not have that problem im well aware of alot of people finiancing builds with the CC im not one of them all mine parts are paid off i learned watching others hints selling of the car so quick or not enjoying the car as much because of the debt bill attached to it along with the carnote and insurance that cant be fun LOL
#115
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I think the reasons are logical, but unexpected, which is what you may be trying to say. A guy does a major build, spends umpteen K, and still has a ~3200lb car with a 2-2.4L motor. Except...now it's temperamental, unreliable, has an unusable powerband on the street. A car that was once fun to drive is now a chore to maneuver around. It's not even that great being in it: rock-hard suspension, almost solid motor mounts and bushings, and a bank vault would start to rattle. There's only one benefactor in all this - a hobby in itself. Well, that and the vendors. I bet most can't remember, or just don't know, how great the car was to drive bone stock.
I hope my car isn't completely unusable and rattle trap.
#116
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The only thing I can say right now is I'm happy I paid everything in cash and don't have a bill to contend with esp. since I'm still not driving my car. LOL.
#117
Evolved Member
iTrader: (24)
Relax my friend. I know most people would recommend the 2.3 over the 2.0 because of the added torque which would be great for a DD.
My problem is this. There is next to no documentation of a 2.3 or 2.4 lasting more than 25,000 miles. What is your claim of 100K based on? I have found ZERO facts on that.
I wanted to go with the safest non stock setup and that's why I picked the 2.0. I'll admit that I don't know much when it comes to this stuff, but knowing the rod angle changes and puts address pressure on the side wall bothers me. Also I'm told the piston speed is much faster which is supposedly not a good thing.
One thing I learned is that on this site most people recommend going with what they have. I guess people don't want to admit that there are other good options. I decided not to jump on the bandwagon and go with my gut feeling.
If anything my choice of the 2.0 for DD can be documented for others to learn from since it doesn't seem common these days.
So in a nutshell a 2.3/2.4 seemed a bit risky to me. It's just my opinion. I'm hoping to get at least 50,000 miles out of this setup. I'd be happy.
My problem is this. There is next to no documentation of a 2.3 or 2.4 lasting more than 25,000 miles. What is your claim of 100K based on? I have found ZERO facts on that.
I wanted to go with the safest non stock setup and that's why I picked the 2.0. I'll admit that I don't know much when it comes to this stuff, but knowing the rod angle changes and puts address pressure on the side wall bothers me. Also I'm told the piston speed is much faster which is supposedly not a good thing.
One thing I learned is that on this site most people recommend going with what they have. I guess people don't want to admit that there are other good options. I decided not to jump on the bandwagon and go with my gut feeling.
If anything my choice of the 2.0 for DD can be documented for others to learn from since it doesn't seem common these days.
So in a nutshell a 2.3/2.4 seemed a bit risky to me. It's just my opinion. I'm hoping to get at least 50,000 miles out of this setup. I'd be happy.
I've got (knock on wood) more than 25k on my 2.3L. Just did a leak down and compression and it came out great. Made 450whp on the last Dyno Dynamics it was on. It may help that I don't beat the crap out of my car from stop light to stop light. Make no mistake that this engine has been raced though. Never ragged, but definitely raced.
On a different note at this point I find stock-bolt on Evos to be more entertaining to drive. If you plan on racing then yes build the motor. If you plan to drive normal 90% of the time (like me) then a bolt-on Evo is more for you. With my power and external gate it's obnoxious to go WOT unless I need to (race). Doing it around random people in traffic I'm sure makes me look like an ***.
I'm personally thinking about selling my Evo and getting a Z06. Been looking at them for a while and want to switch platforms. The Evo is great, but not an idol like a lot of people around here will have you believe. Probably why I don't like a lot of Evo owners because they believe themselves to be driving God's chariot and that's just not the fact. A lot are 2 steps short of being SRT4 drivers!! No offense to current SRT owners ( I owned one for 2 years...it sucked), but 99% of SRT owners I've met are tool boxes that cannot lose.
Smart man. I own my car. No debts on any part on it. Makes no sense to me to get credit on a car you owe money on.
#118
Evolved Member
I think the reasons are logical, but unexpected, which is what you may be trying to say. A guy does a major build, spends umpteen K, and still has a ~3200lb car with a 2-2.4L motor. Except...now it's temperamental, unreliable, has an unusable powerband on the street. A car that was once fun to drive is now a chore to maneuver around. It's not even that great being in it: rock-hard suspension, almost solid motor mounts and bushings, and a bank vault would start to rattle. There's only one benefactor in all this - a hobby in itself. Well, that and the vendors. I bet most can't remember, or just don't know, how great the car was to drive bone stock.
Some people don't mind a rock-hard suspension, tin-can interior, loud as hell exhaust etc. The problem with a lot of motor builds is people chasing the eFame of a big dyno number and not having a clear idea what they are building. If you are a dedicated drag racer who lives your life a 1/4 mile at a time F&F style, then a peaky huge turbo is probably fine, but most of the people who do these builds and then get the car on the street are miserable because the peak power is there, but the fun is gone.
I personally don't believe in leaving any Evo stock... ever. The car is capable of SO much more with minor changes, its silly to not at the very least do bolt-ons and a tune. You won't affect the reliability or drivability in any way and you can gain ~100 whp easily. If you have the money, getting a stock frame turbo and cams won't hurt your reliability either.
I far prefer my 400+ whp Evo to the 300 whp one I started with, and I'm converting to E85 to see what I think of a 500 whp Evo. Chances are I'll like it even more.
#119
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,313
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I haven't had a car note since my 98 brand new ITR in 98. I decided to pull the trigger on my car for full pop because I hated modding cars I was paying a note on in the past. Takes the fun out of it. Esp. when your car is broken and you are paying a note for something you cant drive. Been there done that.
#120
Evolved Member
iTrader: (18)
Then, these aren't the folks selling their cars after a build, which was the point behind the post to which you replied. There are also some people who don't mind paying for new transmissions, new rods, new lifters, etc and claim to love every minute of the way there...until their cars are sold a year or two later.
Last edited by FJF; Aug 2, 2011 at 07:56 PM.