I'm thinking maybe I should take it slow, go step-by-step and just start with this:

- TBE (Megan DP, 100 Cell HFC, Tanabe Touring Catback)
- SpeedElement OMG Air Filter
- ETS 3.5" FMIC Kit (w / UICP & LICP)
- Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
- MBC
- Wide Band O2 Sensor
- Tune

This will cost a lot less but still be a hell of a lot of fun. Run this til I want more, by then I'll have a better idea of what more I actually want.

 

perfect but if ur really tryin to save as much as possible dont need the wideband, its nice to have but not a necessity in tryin to make power on a budget. and besides most tuners plug there bung into the rear of the exhaust when tuning afrs. So not needed, but an eye distraction while driving. haha

 

Really? the only reason im doing larger ones, is because I went to get tuned and I was leaning out real bad and he suggested it, along with a walbro. Because along with the FMIC im starting to look and read more about some GSC s2 or Kelford 272s. And ill mostly be running 91

 

Fuel pump, yes, but injectors, it depends on your injector duty cycles. Do you have logs of any of your runs? Stock injectors should be good for around 350whp. If you want to run large cams, then yea, you may need injectors.

 

Ha ha ha. I've got to admit I like a little bling... i've got the black analog AEM in my Subaru and it looks badass, if a little loud. I'm not a fan of digital gauges so I'll probably go with analog this time, too. The Prosport would match what I have already but I'm guessing that a wideband is too critical an item to go cheap on.

Plus I'll be saving so much not doing the other stuff I was considering getting a proper high quality shortshifter to replace the Ebay/Fidanza that I have that I got installed with no cutting, thus, it aint even short.

So let's say was gonna get a good short shifter that requires NO CUTTING ... which one? Buscher? Works? Another one?

Thanks very much for all the help on this thread. I hope it will help someone else out, too.

 

No I do not have any logs. I wasnt able to finish my street tune. I was knocking like crazy at 6000RPM. So he recommended to just come back after i get a new fuel pump. He suggested also injectors for me since my goal is to do full bolt ons and cams. My goal is 350+ on stock turbo, nothing too crazy for a DD.

What do you think is a reasonable size injector for the setup Im playing on doing? nothing more then 1000?

thanks

 

Now I'm thinking:

- TBE (Works DP, MIL.SPEC 100-cell HFC, Tanabe Medalion Touring Catback)
- SpeedElement OMG Air Filter
- ETS 3.5" FMIC Kit (w / UICP & LICP)
- Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump
- MBC
- Wide Band O2 Sensor
- Short Throw Shifter (Works)
- Tune

Since I was disappointed with my nickel and diming on the ebay short shifter previously I think I'll go full pimp (has served me well with my Subaru, Vishnu Signature Series exhaust and TMIC still look new after 50 thousand brutal miles). I already have the works shifter bushings so figure I'll go with the matching hardware.

 

Since I decided to go full pimp and since you don't know what quality control or techmology is going into some of the cheaper filters, I decided to go with amsoil:

Vibrant MAF Adapter:
Delivered from MAP $29.98

EAAU4560-EA AMSOIL Universal Air Induction Filter
Delivered from amsoil.com: $61.02

Total: $91.00

So i'm paying double for the peace of mind that comes with getting the dry filter that I believe has proven to be the best here at EvoM from one of the most reputable filtration specialists in the country. I'm ok with that.

 

Update...

New List:

- TBE (Works DP, MIL.SPEC 100-cell HFC, Tanabe Medalion Touring Catback)

- AMSOIL Universal Air Induction Filter (Part# EAAU4560-EA) w/Vibrant MAF Adapter

- ETS 3.5" FMIC Kit (w / UICP & LICP)

- Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump

- Wide Band O2 Sensor

- Short Throw Shifter (Works)

- Tune

But now after reading some of this:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rs-my-evo.html

I'm questioning the MBC and considering using the #65 Pill and doing ECU-controlled boost using the stock boost solenoid

I'm going to continue searching and reading until I feel like I have a better understanding of the pros and cons of both, opinions welcomed, thanks again.

 

imo ditch the short throw shifter, if your tryin to improve shifter feel either get a polyurethane front motor mount, a steering torque dampener, or shifter base and cable bushings....those will improve it the most, especially if u said budget, mbc arent needed, although easier to adjust on the fly, i prefer my 3 port boost solenoid over my previous dejon tool, air dont bleed out the lines as fast, therefore boost held stays consistent throughout the rpms, plus u get pulled over and piggy cant give u trouble for a mbc.

 

Ok, I've done a lot of searching and I think this thread is the most recent and comprehensive:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ly-debate.html

And the quotes that struck me the most were these:


Boosted Tuning was the only person who posted any data and IMO made the most convincing case especially considering that he's the original Evo_Kid.

So now I'm gonnna talk to my tuner about using the Greddy Profec Type S or AEM tru-boost. I especially like the concept of adjusting from inside the car.

The AEM tru boost is only $100 more than the Hallman Pro and has some nice features, electronic push button adjustment, overboost alarm, not to mention it includes a boost gauge which I'm guessing is very accurate.

 

I've got the blox motor mount and the works shifter bushings already. But when I get in my "crappy" 2002 WRX it irks me that the shifter (factory option short throw) is so much nicer than the Evo. I mean snickety-snick nice (completely rebuilt by AndrewTech with Legacy GT Gears and new center diff, and then again 2 years later with new bearings by DPS Tuning ). SawEEt.

So I'm pretty convinced I'm getting the pimp short shifter, i guess I'm gonna blow my budget a little, but, I saved some money not doing o2 housing and cams.

Thanks for all your advice, it's been invaluable!

 

I had a Borla with a teat pipe and a small cam and it was quiet enough I never had a problem then traded for a ams with a high flow cat and it was louder then the Borla with a test pipe

 

I've been searching and searching but have yet to find a post that clearly outlines the specific advantage of an EBC over an MBC that justifies the added expense and complexity. The best I can find is something like "a solenoid is better than a spring" but that might not be the case if the solenoid is more complicated to setup and maintain or more prone to failure.

Now I'm thinking I'll just go with whichever MBC my tuner is most comfortable using or he has no particular preference the Hallman Pro with the stiff spring, metal ball and the in cabin adjustment.

 

Started looking at suspension upgrade too after reading here how replacing my stock KYBs with some Bilsteins would give me a less harsh ride with BETTER performance (win/win!)

So I started looking around for the combination of spring/shock and based on the consensus here, since I'm not into lowering my car, it looks like GTWorx + Bilstein HD (B6?) is the ticket for a reasonably priced handling upgrade that wont DEgrade my ride characteristics.

Does this combination look right?

GTWorx Street/Track EVO Springs:
http://www.gtworx.com/index.php/cata.../category/219/

Bilstein HD Fronts:
B6 Heavy Duty Gas Pressure Monotube Strut Assembly - 36mm
EVO IX - Engine: 2.0L/1997cc (122ci) L4
Front - Increased durability and performance while maintaining ride comfort - Bilstein products are backed by an aftermarket lifetime warranty.
Mfg# 35-118435, NOPI# 453+3922
NOPI Price $266.64 Ea
http://www.nopi.com/dsp_part_detail....=250&vpcid=453

Bilstein HD Rears:
B6 Heavy Duty Gas Pressure Monotube Shock Absorber - 46mm
EVO IX - SE - Engine: 2.0L/1997cc (122ci) L4
Rear - Increased durability and performance while maintaining ride comfort - Bilstein products are backed by an aftermarket lifetime warranty.
Mfg# 24-118446, NOPI# 453+4843
NOPI Price $120.33 Ea
http://nopi.com/dsp_part_detail.php?...43&vt=m&vpcid=

This is the most livable, reliable, high performance, and non-ricey combination going according to the reading I have done.

Thoughts? Input much appreciated.

BTW, I did my AMSOil Filter this weekend and it sounds wicked. At first I thought it could possibly be too loud to live with but I'm enjoying it and it seems that I notice it less and less the more I drive. Yes it's big, yes I had to bend the bracket holding the ACD fluid forward until so that the aluminum corner/edge of the just touches it. I also zip tied it up by using one tie around the UICP and the other through the MAF Senser hose clamp's screw so that it doesn't flop around too much or rest with too much weight on the bracket.