JDM HVAC control
Dec 3, 2013, 07:06 PM
#31
For clarity...
>>The gen 1 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo. The gen 1.5 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo or the automatic HVAC box. Both the auto/non auto Outlanders use the same dash.... so the automatic HVAC box will fit directly into the Evo dash.
>>The Outlander blower housing and the Evo blower housing are not the same, however because the HVAC boxes are, working the blower housing in should take minimal effort, primarily with dealing with the automatic recirc door motor if there are no provisions for it. In this instance a salvage foreign market housing might be in order, or some custom work adapting the flange from the Outlander blower housing.
>>The HVAC boxes are the same between gen 1 Outlander and Evo, and the dashes between gen 1 and gen 1.5 Outlander are the same, so the AC duct work from the Evo should snap right on.
>>The AC controls will not fit as is; the knobs are fitted to the Outlander dash fascia in similar fashion to the way ours are, just with a totally different provision for the control head and totally different provision for the dash fascia. This means getting the control head mounted will be 100% custom. I am wagering your best options will be either to get a EU control head and hope the pin out is the same or get a EU control head and gut it and put the US auto innards into it.
>>The gen 1 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo. The gen 1.5 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo or the automatic HVAC box. Both the auto/non auto Outlanders use the same dash.... so the automatic HVAC box will fit directly into the Evo dash.
>>The Outlander blower housing and the Evo blower housing are not the same, however because the HVAC boxes are, working the blower housing in should take minimal effort, primarily with dealing with the automatic recirc door motor if there are no provisions for it. In this instance a salvage foreign market housing might be in order, or some custom work adapting the flange from the Outlander blower housing.
>>The HVAC boxes are the same between gen 1 Outlander and Evo, and the dashes between gen 1 and gen 1.5 Outlander are the same, so the AC duct work from the Evo should snap right on.
>>The AC controls will not fit as is; the knobs are fitted to the Outlander dash fascia in similar fashion to the way ours are, just with a totally different provision for the control head and totally different provision for the dash fascia. This means getting the control head mounted will be 100% custom. I am wagering your best options will be either to get a EU control head and hope the pin out is the same or get a EU control head and gut it and put the US auto innards into it.
Dec 3, 2013, 08:56 PM
#32
For clarity...
>>The gen 1 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo. The gen 1.5 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo or the automatic HVAC box. Both the auto/non auto Outlanders use the same dash.... so the automatic HVAC box will fit directly into the Evo dash.
>>The Outlander blower housing and the Evo blower housing are not the same, however because the HVAC boxes are, working the blower housing in should take minimal effort, primarily with dealing with the automatic recirc door motor if there are no provisions for it. In this instance a salvage foreign market housing might be in order, or some custom work adapting the flange from the Outlander blower housing.
>>The HVAC boxes are the same between gen 1 Outlander and Evo, and the dashes between gen 1 and gen 1.5 Outlander are the same, so the AC duct work from the Evo should snap right on.
>>The AC controls will not fit as is; the knobs are fitted to the Outlander dash fascia in similar fashion to the way ours are, just with a totally different provision for the control head and totally different provision for the dash fascia. This means getting the control head mounted will be 100% custom. I am wagering your best options will be either to get a EU control head and hope the pin out is the same or get a EU control head and gut it and put the US auto innards into it.
>>The gen 1 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo. The gen 1.5 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo or the automatic HVAC box. Both the auto/non auto Outlanders use the same dash.... so the automatic HVAC box will fit directly into the Evo dash.
>>The Outlander blower housing and the Evo blower housing are not the same, however because the HVAC boxes are, working the blower housing in should take minimal effort, primarily with dealing with the automatic recirc door motor if there are no provisions for it. In this instance a salvage foreign market housing might be in order, or some custom work adapting the flange from the Outlander blower housing.
>>The HVAC boxes are the same between gen 1 Outlander and Evo, and the dashes between gen 1 and gen 1.5 Outlander are the same, so the AC duct work from the Evo should snap right on.
>>The AC controls will not fit as is; the knobs are fitted to the Outlander dash fascia in similar fashion to the way ours are, just with a totally different provision for the control head and totally different provision for the dash fascia. This means getting the control head mounted will be 100% custom. I am wagering your best options will be either to get a EU control head and hope the pin out is the same or get a EU control head and gut it and put the US auto innards into it.
Dec 4, 2013, 05:28 AM
#33
You have to get a fully loaded 1.5 for automatic AC. Base and mid tier models still had the standard AC. For what it is worth, I've only ever seen 2006 with auto AC, though supposedly all 1.5's had the option.
Dec 4, 2013, 11:09 AM
#34
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For clarity...
>>The gen 1 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo. The gen 1.5 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo or the automatic HVAC box. Both the auto/non auto Outlanders use the same dash.... so the automatic HVAC box will fit directly into the Evo dash.
>>The Outlander blower housing and the Evo blower housing are not the same, however because the HVAC boxes are, working the blower housing in should take minimal effort, primarily with dealing with the automatic recirc door motor if there are no provisions for it. In this instance a salvage foreign market housing might be in order, or some custom work adapting the flange from the Outlander blower housing.
>>The HVAC boxes are the same between gen 1 Outlander and Evo, and the dashes between gen 1 and gen 1.5 Outlander are the same, so the AC duct work from the Evo should snap right on.
>>The AC controls will not fit as is; the knobs are fitted to the Outlander dash fascia in similar fashion to the way ours are, just with a totally different provision for the control head and totally different provision for the dash fascia. This means getting the control head mounted will be 100% custom. I am wagering your best options will be either to get a EU control head and hope the pin out is the same or get a EU control head and gut it and put the US auto innards into it.
>>The gen 1 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo. The gen 1.5 Outlander uses the same HVAC box as the Evo or the automatic HVAC box. Both the auto/non auto Outlanders use the same dash.... so the automatic HVAC box will fit directly into the Evo dash.
>>The Outlander blower housing and the Evo blower housing are not the same, however because the HVAC boxes are, working the blower housing in should take minimal effort, primarily with dealing with the automatic recirc door motor if there are no provisions for it. In this instance a salvage foreign market housing might be in order, or some custom work adapting the flange from the Outlander blower housing.
>>The HVAC boxes are the same between gen 1 Outlander and Evo, and the dashes between gen 1 and gen 1.5 Outlander are the same, so the AC duct work from the Evo should snap right on.
>>The AC controls will not fit as is; the knobs are fitted to the Outlander dash fascia in similar fashion to the way ours are, just with a totally different provision for the control head and totally different provision for the dash fascia. This means getting the control head mounted will be 100% custom. I am wagering your best options will be either to get a EU control head and hope the pin out is the same or get a EU control head and gut it and put the US auto innards into it.
Dec 4, 2013, 12:07 PM
#37
Evolving Member
I do my JDM HVAC though, never knew it was that complicated.
Dec 4, 2013, 12:37 PM
#38
I'd just trace one or two per plug for reference. The US control head is 16 and 20 pin as well, and the odds of them being massively different is slim. Lancer/Outlander stuff that is shared across the platform is rarely engineered differently. If I have some time this weekend I'll check some of the pin-outs for comparison.
Dec 4, 2013, 12:44 PM
#39
These are the pinouts that I know of:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5c99nbkuvm...U%20Pinout.pdf
Definitely have to trace each wire as they all go through junction connectors and then to different places
I believe the 16-pin would be the only pinned connector we have if it is indeed in our cars (makes sense now that i think about it), the 20-pin is definitely not there unless for some weird reason mitsubishi included it in the wiring harness and it's tucked away (which i doubt)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5c99nbkuvm...U%20Pinout.pdf
Definitely have to trace each wire as they all go through junction connectors and then to different places
I believe the 16-pin would be the only pinned connector we have if it is indeed in our cars (makes sense now that i think about it), the 20-pin is definitely not there unless for some weird reason mitsubishi included it in the wiring harness and it's tucked away (which i doubt)
Dec 4, 2013, 01:21 PM
#40
These are the pinouts that I know of:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5c99nbkuvm...U%20Pinout.pdf
Definitely have to trace each wire as they all go through junction connectors and then to different places
I believe the 16-pin would be the only pinned connector we have if it is indeed in our cars (makes sense now that i think about it), the 20-pin is definitely not there unless for some weird reason mitsubishi included it in the wiring harness and it's tucked away (which i doubt)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5c99nbkuvm...U%20Pinout.pdf
Definitely have to trace each wire as they all go through junction connectors and then to different places
I believe the 16-pin would be the only pinned connector we have if it is indeed in our cars (makes sense now that i think about it), the 20-pin is definitely not there unless for some weird reason mitsubishi included it in the wiring harness and it's tucked away (which i doubt)
Junctions etc won't matter too much with regard to function nor any shared connectors, you just need to know the purpose of each wire. It would be pointless to try to integrate this into an Evo harness, a patch harness is the only way to go unless you like wasting time.
Dec 4, 2013, 05:45 PM
#41
Oh, no, I agree 100% on not re-creating junctions like factory, but some sort of connectors would be good for future use
What I meant by that was to me it sounded like you meant each wire in the connector went to relatively the same place behind the dash, which they do not, so that was why he'd only need to trace 1-2 to see where they went
What I meant by that was to me it sounded like you meant each wire in the connector went to relatively the same place behind the dash, which they do not, so that was why he'd only need to trace 1-2 to see where they went
Dec 4, 2013, 06:27 PM
#42
Oh no..... either you misunderstood me or I misunderstood you first.
I was relating to the pin out on the control head and devices... if you know what the wires go to, that's all you need. If you have to bypass a a junction connector etc, it's no big deal if you know what each wire does (simple as having a schematic handy).
For example (and I'm just making this up, I haven't looked at it in a while), say you have wire xyz on the control head that goes to the item abc. Neither item is part of the factory harness (one end would be control heads new harness and the other end a motor etc not used on the evo). You run into a problem because the wiring is routed through junction 123 or shared on a connector unnecessarily and it is different from the evo. No big deal, you know the source and destination of the wire, so you just run it yourself or otherwise modify your patch harness.
The system is nearly standalone, so you could even leave your factory wiring almost completely untouched and have the patch harness running beside it, with only the necessary unions (grounds, power supply to fan motor, and doors, ecu temp, fan integration, etc). All of this is very easy to accommodate having both schematics on hand.
If you've ever seen anyone have to do a megasquirt without a ecu adapter, its the same general principle.
Having the donor harness and hardware, you will be able to extract the useless wiring and have a more or less drop-in assembly as far as the different components and their wiring go. The vehicle integration is a wire by wire ordeal, but if you do this stuff regularly it would literally be an afternoon job at worst.
You are right, there are literally next to no wires that go to the same place. For starters, the dash portion of the system on an evo is pretty much a blower switch/ecu, resistor and fan motor. The auto system is adding in door motors, additional input sensors, etc. This is all new wiring. But again, you know where stuff goes, you just run your wiring. Extract the necessary wiring (or just identify if you are making your own harness entirely from scratch.... not recommended if you have to diagnose it later and the wire colors are all jacked up) and route from point a to point b.
The comment on the EU head is speculation for right now, but given that both auto control heads have the same connectors and are used on two shared platforms that are notorious for having crossover parts... I would bet they are identical, apart from the knob order reversed. I have to do some checking on that first though.
Now if you were talking about trying to wire in the new components without a donor harness.... well that's just sadistic, what a crap job that would be. I would literally not use a single Evo connector except where vehicle integration was required (power sources, fan, ecu, compressor wiring, etc). No reason to complicate things, plus doing it as a patch harness makes it totally reversible.
I was relating to the pin out on the control head and devices... if you know what the wires go to, that's all you need. If you have to bypass a a junction connector etc, it's no big deal if you know what each wire does (simple as having a schematic handy).
For example (and I'm just making this up, I haven't looked at it in a while), say you have wire xyz on the control head that goes to the item abc. Neither item is part of the factory harness (one end would be control heads new harness and the other end a motor etc not used on the evo). You run into a problem because the wiring is routed through junction 123 or shared on a connector unnecessarily and it is different from the evo. No big deal, you know the source and destination of the wire, so you just run it yourself or otherwise modify your patch harness.
The system is nearly standalone, so you could even leave your factory wiring almost completely untouched and have the patch harness running beside it, with only the necessary unions (grounds, power supply to fan motor, and doors, ecu temp, fan integration, etc). All of this is very easy to accommodate having both schematics on hand.
If you've ever seen anyone have to do a megasquirt without a ecu adapter, its the same general principle.
Having the donor harness and hardware, you will be able to extract the useless wiring and have a more or less drop-in assembly as far as the different components and their wiring go. The vehicle integration is a wire by wire ordeal, but if you do this stuff regularly it would literally be an afternoon job at worst.
You are right, there are literally next to no wires that go to the same place. For starters, the dash portion of the system on an evo is pretty much a blower switch/ecu, resistor and fan motor. The auto system is adding in door motors, additional input sensors, etc. This is all new wiring. But again, you know where stuff goes, you just run your wiring. Extract the necessary wiring (or just identify if you are making your own harness entirely from scratch.... not recommended if you have to diagnose it later and the wire colors are all jacked up) and route from point a to point b.
The comment on the EU head is speculation for right now, but given that both auto control heads have the same connectors and are used on two shared platforms that are notorious for having crossover parts... I would bet they are identical, apart from the knob order reversed. I have to do some checking on that first though.
Now if you were talking about trying to wire in the new components without a donor harness.... well that's just sadistic, what a crap job that would be. I would literally not use a single Evo connector except where vehicle integration was required (power sources, fan, ecu, compressor wiring, etc). No reason to complicate things, plus doing it as a patch harness makes it totally reversible.
Dec 4, 2013, 07:20 PM
#43
Yep - that's why I'd be making my own harness if I end up doing this. I agree with all the points you said
The hardest thing for me right now is the cost of just the servo's and the blower motor. nearly $200 just for those three items! and no guarantee they'll work without the rest of the kit as well.
I have a friend going to europe over the holidays and I'm going to see if he can source the servos while he's there to bring back with him
Someday I will complete this (to a work-able extent), but I have a 240 that is taking up garage space right now!
The hardest thing for me right now is the cost of just the servo's and the blower motor. nearly $200 just for those three items! and no guarantee they'll work without the rest of the kit as well.
I have a friend going to europe over the holidays and I'm going to see if he can source the servos while he's there to bring back with him
Someday I will complete this (to a work-able extent), but I have a 240 that is taking up garage space right now!
Dec 4, 2013, 07:33 PM
#44
Ya this is a junkyard op for sure. I wouldn't even consider buying new. Hell the housings are usually over a grand alone. Then either try to adapt the us controls to our dash or suck it up and pay for a eu/jdm control head.
I'm still back and forth a bit on it for personal use; my blend door is starting to stick a bit and I really don't like changing those if I'm not getting paid to do it
I don't think it is enough hassle to justify the swap though. Luckily it just started 
I'm still back and forth a bit on it for personal use; my blend door is starting to stick a bit and I really don't like changing those if I'm not getting paid to do it
I don't think it is enough hassle to justify the swap though. Luckily it just started
Dec 5, 2013, 01:35 PM
#45
Did some reading and confirmed what superbovine said
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander Limited does indeed come with automatic climate control
I've sent a message to RussellM in hopes that he can get me some part numbers so that I can try and accumulate some parts for the car and see what happens
Though, I suppose I should pull my HVAC control unit to make sure that 16-pin connector is there before I get into this again...
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander Limited does indeed come with automatic climate control
I've sent a message to RussellM in hopes that he can get me some part numbers so that I can try and accumulate some parts for the car and see what happens
Though, I suppose I should pull my HVAC control unit to make sure that 16-pin connector is there before I get into this again...