stock replacement rotors
#4
i was looking at
works
http://www.maperformance.com/evo-vii...-rotors-works/
DBA
http://www.maperformance.com/evo-vii...ke-rotors-dba/
#5
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Drilled rotors tend to crack from what I've heard, most just go slotted as you mentioned above. Be sure to check these out as well, cost effective and we've heard nothing but rave reviews. Of course if you're looking for something more hardcore those PFC two piece rotors can't be beat.
http://www.maperformance.com/rotorpr...o-viii-ix.html
Good website choice by the way
http://www.maperformance.com/rotorpr...o-viii-ix.html
Good website choice by the way
#6
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In all honesty, the question is vague when it comes to rotor selection.
"Light track use" doesn't necessarily give us an idea of what you want. As in what type of track you'd be using them on and how often. I mean... the stock brembos, while not perfect, are certainly a phenomenal brake for this car. Street use all day long, with light track use.
There are rotors that are upgrades so to speak if you HAVE to change your rotors (like... they're bad). I would do some searching (there are a bunch of threads) on which pad/rotor combo is best for what you want.
So I guess...
1. Are your stock rotors done?
2. What is "light track use" and what speeds are we talking?
3. What pads are you running?
4. What tires/size?
Etc...
But there are thousands of people that are more qualified than I for this discussion. Just an fyi (hence my search recommendation)
"Light track use" doesn't necessarily give us an idea of what you want. As in what type of track you'd be using them on and how often. I mean... the stock brembos, while not perfect, are certainly a phenomenal brake for this car. Street use all day long, with light track use.
There are rotors that are upgrades so to speak if you HAVE to change your rotors (like... they're bad). I would do some searching (there are a bunch of threads) on which pad/rotor combo is best for what you want.
So I guess...
1. Are your stock rotors done?
2. What is "light track use" and what speeds are we talking?
3. What pads are you running?
4. What tires/size?
Etc...
But there are thousands of people that are more qualified than I for this discussion. Just an fyi (hence my search recommendation)
#7
In all honesty, the question is vague when it comes to rotor selection.
"Light track use" doesn't necessarily give us an idea of what you want. As in what type of track you'd be using them on and how often. I mean... the stock brembos, while not perfect, are certainly a phenomenal brake for this car. Street use all day long, with light track use.
There are rotors that are upgrades so to speak if you HAVE to change your rotors (like... they're bad). I would do some searching (there are a bunch of threads) on which pad/rotor combo is best for what you want.
So I guess...
1. Are your stock rotors done?
2. What is "light track use" and what speeds are we talking?
3. What pads are you running?
4. What tires/size?
Etc...
But there are thousands of people that are more qualified than I for this discussion. Just an fyi (hence my search recommendation)
"Light track use" doesn't necessarily give us an idea of what you want. As in what type of track you'd be using them on and how often. I mean... the stock brembos, while not perfect, are certainly a phenomenal brake for this car. Street use all day long, with light track use.
There are rotors that are upgrades so to speak if you HAVE to change your rotors (like... they're bad). I would do some searching (there are a bunch of threads) on which pad/rotor combo is best for what you want.
So I guess...
1. Are your stock rotors done?
2. What is "light track use" and what speeds are we talking?
3. What pads are you running?
4. What tires/size?
Etc...
But there are thousands of people that are more qualified than I for this discussion. Just an fyi (hence my search recommendation)
1. its beginning to die, 100k miles on them. i feel the vibrations when braking.
2. im talking circuits. top speeds of 130 possibly. but this is somtehing i would like to get into. not something i do now.
3. im running EBC redstuff right now
4. im runnning 17/8 reo1s right now but will soon be getting 17/9.5 or 18/9.5
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#8
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i have looked around a little. alot of people were running DBs.
1. its beginning to die, 100k miles on them. i feel the vibrations when braking.
2. im talking circuits. top speeds of 130 possibly. but this is somtehing i would like to get into. not something i do now.
3. im running EBC redstuff right now
4. im runnning 17/8 reo1s right now but will soon be getting 17/9.5 or 18/9.5
1. its beginning to die, 100k miles on them. i feel the vibrations when braking.
2. im talking circuits. top speeds of 130 possibly. but this is somtehing i would like to get into. not something i do now.
3. im running EBC redstuff right now
4. im runnning 17/8 reo1s right now but will soon be getting 17/9.5 or 18/9.5
Well, pad and rotor choice should be directly linked to tire size/choice when you're looking. So there's that.
If you're feeling vibrations, then I'd say your rotors are cooked, but maybe you can just turn them.
If you're looking for stock replacements, I'd say slotted is your best bet if you want the high speed purpose use. At least in the front. I'm not convinced yet if they're necessary for the back.
If you want to go the next step, you can go to a 2 piece rotor up front. That will help the system run a bit cooler, and will at the very least, save your wheelbearings from the heat and allow you to simply swap rotor blanks instead of an entire system. It's also lighter, but the entry cost is typically higher.
Most people suggest upgrading the pads, and going to stainless lines, a better fluid, and setting up some type of cooling system initially. Once you learn how to drive the car and understand what type of friction you want, what your budget is etc, you can move from there. OBVIOUSLY, if you need rotors, you need rotors, so I get that... But on the track, if you're running a harsh pad its conceivable to rip through a set of pads and rotors in a couple of track events.
Maybe try cross posting in the suspension and handling braking forum? I'm reluctant to give concrete choices simply because I don't know, and thats only because I haven't researched it as much as braking is my winter project.
#10
Nice...
Well, pad and rotor choice should be directly linked to tire size/choice when you're looking. So there's that.
If you're feeling vibrations, then I'd say your rotors are cooked, but maybe you can just turn them.
If you're looking for stock replacements, I'd say slotted is your best bet if you want the high speed purpose use. At least in the front. I'm not convinced yet if they're necessary for the back.
If you want to go the next step, you can go to a 2 piece rotor up front. That will help the system run a bit cooler, and will at the very least, save your wheelbearings from the heat and allow you to simply swap rotor blanks instead of an entire system. It's also lighter, but the entry cost is typically higher.
Most people suggest upgrading the pads, and going to stainless lines, a better fluid, and setting up some type of cooling system initially. Once you learn how to drive the car and understand what type of friction you want, what your budget is etc, you can move from there. OBVIOUSLY, if you need rotors, you need rotors, so I get that... But on the track, if you're running a harsh pad its conceivable to rip through a set of pads and rotors in a couple of track events.
Maybe try cross posting in the suspension and handling braking forum? I'm reluctant to give concrete choices simply because I don't know, and thats only because I haven't researched it as much as braking is my winter project.
Well, pad and rotor choice should be directly linked to tire size/choice when you're looking. So there's that.
If you're feeling vibrations, then I'd say your rotors are cooked, but maybe you can just turn them.
If you're looking for stock replacements, I'd say slotted is your best bet if you want the high speed purpose use. At least in the front. I'm not convinced yet if they're necessary for the back.
If you want to go the next step, you can go to a 2 piece rotor up front. That will help the system run a bit cooler, and will at the very least, save your wheelbearings from the heat and allow you to simply swap rotor blanks instead of an entire system. It's also lighter, but the entry cost is typically higher.
Most people suggest upgrading the pads, and going to stainless lines, a better fluid, and setting up some type of cooling system initially. Once you learn how to drive the car and understand what type of friction you want, what your budget is etc, you can move from there. OBVIOUSLY, if you need rotors, you need rotors, so I get that... But on the track, if you're running a harsh pad its conceivable to rip through a set of pads and rotors in a couple of track events.
Maybe try cross posting in the suspension and handling braking forum? I'm reluctant to give concrete choices simply because I don't know, and thats only because I haven't researched it as much as braking is my winter project.
#11
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iTrader: (4)
I've seen a lot of bad reviews on DBA. I was thinking about getting the 4000's; then I read all these:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...0+Series+Rotor
--------------------------
How do you guys feel about Stoptech?
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...0+Series+Rotor
--------------------------
How do you guys feel about Stoptech?
#13
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i bought slotted rotopro's for all 4 corners and some stoptech pads. for some easy daily driving, this is perfect. pads are super quiet, but not aggressive at all (street driving only). rotors can get quite expensive, so it really depends on your wallet. i did a full brake job rotors/pads/fluids for what some ppl pay for front rotors. i really wouldn't stress the rotors as much as pads, but it's your choice.
p.s. MAP has some damn good deals
p.s. MAP has some damn good deals