Evo 8 boost leak results
Oct 18, 2011, 04:23 PM
#1
Evo 8 boost leak results
So I finally got around to doing a boost leak test on the evo. I was going to start at the TB and then work backwards to the turbo, but I didn't have a coupler that was the right size to fit over the TB inlet. So I just figured I'd run it at the turbo and see what happens...
I rigged up a sweet setup. I have a quick connect male end in PVC cap with a silicone coupler. Then between the compressor hose and that, I made this thing today:
It has a pressure gauge with a regulator, and a shut off switch. This way I can just fill up the tank with air and control it right under the hood.
So anyway, I set it up and accidentally filled the system up with 30psi! It filled up quick, which I guess is a good thing. So then I turned off the air and listened for leaks. I heard a small one and determined it was coming from my boost gauge connection. More on that later. I 'fixed' it and filled it up again. I still heard a little leak that was either coming from the same spot or somewhere near (or under) the TB. I checked the boost gauge while doing this and it filled up quick (to like 22psi) and went down about 1 PSI per second. Is that normal? I forget as I haven't done a boost leak test in a while!
As far as my boost gauge connection, it's a weird setup and I was hoping to get some feedback. I have an Autometer Ultra Light 2 mechanical boost gauge. So I have that nylon tubing running from the boost gauge to the source. Now the kit comes with this rubber connector to connect the nylon tubing to a t-fitting, but that basically melted in my engine bay so I tried a different solution. I got a coupler that has that little ferrule inside to connect to the nylon end, but the other end is a short threaded piece that I got a vac line over and zip tied. I don't think this is holding well, so I wanted to see what you guys recommend to connect this nylon hose to a t-fitting or a vacuum hose.
I rigged up a sweet setup. I have a quick connect male end in PVC cap with a silicone coupler. Then between the compressor hose and that, I made this thing today:
It has a pressure gauge with a regulator, and a shut off switch. This way I can just fill up the tank with air and control it right under the hood.
So anyway, I set it up and accidentally filled the system up with 30psi! It filled up quick, which I guess is a good thing. So then I turned off the air and listened for leaks. I heard a small one and determined it was coming from my boost gauge connection. More on that later. I 'fixed' it and filled it up again. I still heard a little leak that was either coming from the same spot or somewhere near (or under) the TB. I checked the boost gauge while doing this and it filled up quick (to like 22psi) and went down about 1 PSI per second. Is that normal? I forget as I haven't done a boost leak test in a while!
As far as my boost gauge connection, it's a weird setup and I was hoping to get some feedback. I have an Autometer Ultra Light 2 mechanical boost gauge. So I have that nylon tubing running from the boost gauge to the source. Now the kit comes with this rubber connector to connect the nylon tubing to a t-fitting, but that basically melted in my engine bay so I tried a different solution. I got a coupler that has that little ferrule inside to connect to the nylon end, but the other end is a short threaded piece that I got a vac line over and zip tied. I don't think this is holding well, so I wanted to see what you guys recommend to connect this nylon hose to a t-fitting or a vacuum hose.
Oct 18, 2011, 04:31 PM
#2
Oct 18, 2011, 04:46 PM
#3
Oct 18, 2011, 05:48 PM
#4
Sorry I forgot to mention that I used soapy water. That's how I knew the boost gauge line was leaking as I saw the bubbles. I didn't see any bubbles around injector seals, any of the vacuum lines, or the upper intercooler pipe (including bov).
Oct 18, 2011, 05:59 PM
#7
I had the same issue on my Sport Comp II mechanical boost gauge.
I ended up using a plastic tee, two different sizes of heat shrink tubing and a small section of silicon hose and small zip ties. Heat shrunk the tubing to the gauge's nylon tubing ( about 3-4 " long). Then used the small section of silicon hose to slide over the heat shrink tubing. ( it was tight fit but i got it on about 2 " with tiny bit of dish detergent) then connected the free end of the hose to the Tee. Used zip ties on the tee and 3 on the layered heat shrink+silicone hose. No leaks any more.
Be aware plastic tees used in vacuum may deteriorate over time due to heat. If you can find a brass tee for 1/8" tubing ( small fish aquarium pumps used to use them ) that will work much better over time.
Here is one source
http://www.parker.com/literature/Bra...cts/Book-G.pdf See page G5 Union 224-5/32
I ended up using a plastic tee, two different sizes of heat shrink tubing and a small section of silicon hose and small zip ties. Heat shrunk the tubing to the gauge's nylon tubing ( about 3-4 " long). Then used the small section of silicon hose to slide over the heat shrink tubing. ( it was tight fit but i got it on about 2 " with tiny bit of dish detergent) then connected the free end of the hose to the Tee. Used zip ties on the tee and 3 on the layered heat shrink+silicone hose. No leaks any more.
Be aware plastic tees used in vacuum may deteriorate over time due to heat. If you can find a brass tee for 1/8" tubing ( small fish aquarium pumps used to use them ) that will work much better over time.
Here is one source
http://www.parker.com/literature/Bra...cts/Book-G.pdf See page G5 Union 224-5/32
Last edited by WRC-LVR; Oct 18, 2011 at 06:07 PM.
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Oct 19, 2011, 04:20 AM
#9
I had the same issue on my Sport Comp II mechanical boost gauge.
I ended up using a plastic tee, two different sizes of heat shrink tubing and a small section of silicon hose and small zip ties. Heat shrunk the tubing to the gauge's nylon tubing ( about 3-4 " long). Then used the small section of silicon hose to slide over the heat shrink tubing. ( it was tight fit but i got it on about 2 " with tiny bit of dish detergent) then connected the free end of the hose to the Tee. Used zip ties on the tee and 3 on the layered heat shrink+silicone hose. No leaks any more.
Be aware plastic tees used in vacuum may deteriorate over time due to heat. If you can find a brass tee for 1/8" tubing ( small fish aquarium pumps used to use them ) that will work much better over time.
Here is one source
http://www.parker.com/literature/Bra...cts/Book-G.pdf See page G5 Union 224-5/32
I ended up using a plastic tee, two different sizes of heat shrink tubing and a small section of silicon hose and small zip ties. Heat shrunk the tubing to the gauge's nylon tubing ( about 3-4 " long). Then used the small section of silicon hose to slide over the heat shrink tubing. ( it was tight fit but i got it on about 2 " with tiny bit of dish detergent) then connected the free end of the hose to the Tee. Used zip ties on the tee and 3 on the layered heat shrink+silicone hose. No leaks any more.
Be aware plastic tees used in vacuum may deteriorate over time due to heat. If you can find a brass tee for 1/8" tubing ( small fish aquarium pumps used to use them ) that will work much better over time.
Here is one source
http://www.parker.com/literature/Bra...cts/Book-G.pdf See page G5 Union 224-5/32
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