Anyone with the a link please post it.

 

Here is the only write up I could come up with on here: How To: Replace an Alternator

Not sure if that will help or not.

 

Its really not too difficult to pull the axle off... Thats what I did. Axle/DP out, Alternator in. Just take a minute and look at it and I am sure you'll be able to figure it out

 

Ok so I got my alternator out with ease. And I went to get it tested and it passed But now what else could be casuing low voltage and the battery light and brake light? Did i blow a fuse? or what input needed. ASAP

 

Anyone?

 

Have you tested your battery?... I had this same issue and both needed replacement before it was back to normal.

 

Were you running a mini battery?
^1

 

No I wasnt. It was the stock battery that went bad after 95k miles

 

Hmm would the battery not charging cause the brake and battery light to be on?

 

Yes. Thats how it usually is.

 

Ok thanks

 

If anyone else wants to add input. Please

 

With my car on. It will stay at around 12v and then slowly die. My alternator passed the test at autozone. I pulled my ETS mini and unscrewed the postive and negative terminals. And the postive side had a whitish greenish bluish power on the the bottom side and around the top of the battery? Any suggestions?

 

Did mine a few years ago from the bottom. it was PITA

 

It's pretty easy to test.

When your car is running it runs off alternator only. The battery is only used to start the car, the alternator then recharges it. I've had my alternator die two times. Both times the battery and e-brake light were on. Just because it tests fine doesn't mean it's good. Somethings test fine when on a tester but real life puts more of a strain on them. That being said since you already have it out might as well replace the battery also. That powder is what happens when moisture gets on battery terminals. You need to take a wire brush and scrub it off, then get some battery terminal cleaner spray (sold at all auto parts stores) and spray it on there and scrub it again. When you put the terminals back on you need to then put some condensation forming inhibitor grease (di-electric grease) on and around the terminals to keep moisture out. It's possible your battery has had to work harder to compensate for the issue with voltage flow so it has permanently drained it. That could be part of your problem.

The test most people do is start your car, disconnect the battery, see how long it lasts for. Does it run ok? Turn on your radio. Does the music cut in and out? Turn your radio up. Does the music cut in and out now? Turn your headlights on. Does your music cut out now? How is the idle?

The one tell tale way I know my alternator is about to die is my radio starts to cut out and I hear whining through my speakers before the lights even show on the dash. The shop that replaced mine (it was under warranty) did it through the top in about 1.5 hours.