Notices
Evo General Discuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums. Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
Sponsored by: RavSpec - JDM Wheels Central

Time to upgrade bottom end and Turbo

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 30, 2011, 07:00 PM
  #31  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
 
evoforstevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Midwest
Posts: 511
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
some really good discussion going!! there are a lot of reliable shops on evom, but all too many times it comes down to fanboys having a pissing contest. whatever route you choose, best of luck and can't wait to see more!
Old Nov 30, 2011, 07:16 PM
  #32  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Frew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think you could spend 20k to get to 600 whp but I also think you could do it for less. It all comes down to the old addage of spending money where its needed...
Old Dec 1, 2011, 05:28 AM
  #33  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
 
SDevo13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SD
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
As was said in my post...I am not arguing you can't do things for cheaper. I am saying if you want a RELIABLE (< THIS IS THE KEY WORD) 600whp car. You are going to be looking at around 20k. No the prices are not exact I was just making a point.

If it ain't broke don't fix it? Thats going to cost you a lot of money later. Don't replace your tranny and beat on it w/ 600-700whp and see how long it is before you are dropping it out again, see how long your tcase will last. As far as your tuner, I don't care how good he is, fully tune a 600+ whp stock block thats not being detuned severely to limit torque and I guarantee you that you will be replacing your block soon. Hopefully it doesn't grenade and take out your turbo with it.

Getting your car to make 600whp =/= making it be able to handle that stress RELIABLY
Old Dec 1, 2011, 12:21 PM
  #34  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Teal2nnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 1,491
Received 41 Likes on 37 Posts
Originally Posted by cursedsm
Wow really? So your saying that my 500 hp evo I paid 20k in mods for eh. Glad I don't shop where you do. I was looking over recepts the other day and I have no where near 20k into my evo. Sure my car came with an exhaust and cams I got rid of for new cams, but even with all new stuff I am under 5k total. That is everything in my signature.
do you have a built trans?? a built T-case?? a twin or triple clutch??? i'll bet you havent even touched your drive train, that alone you'll be into for 7+K. have fun bud, i build cars to last.....maybe i overbuild....eitherway I don't cheap out.

Edit....mines in the 600whp bracket so i guess were in a different league

Last edited by Teal2nnr; Dec 1, 2011 at 12:25 PM.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:39 PM
  #35  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
Originally Posted by Teal2nnr
do you have a built trans?? a built T-case?? a twin or triple clutch??? i'll bet you havent even touched your drive train, that alone you'll be into for 7+K. have fun bud, i build cars to last.....maybe i overbuild....eitherway I don't cheap out.

Edit....mines in the 600whp bracket so i guess were in a different league
No your right I do not have a built trans, t case, nor a tripple disc it isn't needed for me right now. Your also right I have not touched my drivetrain why because my tuner knows how to tune a car safely and will allow me to make the power I make reliability. Will it break? sure nothing lasts for ever. One thing I have above you is I won't pay 7k for anything on my car. How is that you may ask? Easy you know the right people. I am not some dumb *** on here who absolutly knows nothing or anyone for that matter. I know plenty of people who when it is time pay for my **** and pay a hell of alot less then 7k for anything on my car. When the motor goes guess what same deal, you think I will spend 3500 on a short block? **** no, I will pull the strings I need to pull and build it myself for a quarter of that pending on what system I decide to go with. Trust me if I wanted to build a 9 second car I would have been there already but I don't I like driving my car the way it is and wont change a god damn thing till it breaks. Trust me I have hookups everywhere and NO I do not have sponsors or anything.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:41 PM
  #36  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
Originally Posted by SDevo13
As was said in my post...I am not arguing you can't do things for cheaper. I am saying if you want a RELIABLE (< THIS IS THE KEY WORD) 600whp car. You are going to be looking at around 20k. No the prices are not exact I was just making a point.

If it ain't broke don't fix it? Thats going to cost you a lot of money later. Don't replace your tranny and beat on it w/ 600-700whp and see how long it is before you are dropping it out again, see how long your tcase will last. As far as your tuner, I don't care how good he is, fully tune a 600+ whp stock block thats not being detuned severely to limit torque and I guarantee you that you will be replacing your block soon. Hopefully it doesn't grenade and take out your turbo with it.

Getting your car to make 600whp =/= making it be able to handle that stress RELIABLY
You will not argue because I spelled it out plain and simple you can build a car that makes 600 hp and will last you for way under what you said it took. Don't be butt hurt because I will do it and it will last. Something I missed so I am editing this. There is nothing detuned about my car. Sure if i wanted to make 600ft lbs of tq the motor wont last. Specially since the limit is around 420 ft lbs of tq. Hell I am making 443 now. Guess what still ticking and runs great. Like I said my tuner will get me the #s I want and the car will be more then enough to make me happy. I will use this word right now. My car is "RELIABLE" I drive it everyday and beat the living **** out of it.

Last edited by CurseDSM; Dec 1, 2011 at 02:13 PM.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:53 PM
  #37  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
Here take a look at this car. Hmm he makes a **** ton of power on a car that isn't much different then mine STOCK BLOCK AND HAS MORE TQ AND HP. Oh yeah and since then he does make even more power then before so please not that.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...no-inside.html
Old Dec 1, 2011, 02:53 PM
  #38  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
 
SDevo13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SD
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm not butt hurt in the least. Some people here don't have the luxury of playing the wait and break it game. Nor do most people have 'hook ups' so where does this RELIABLE 5k in mods 600+ whp car that isn't a result of sponsorships (or being hooked up) come from? You still haven't refuted any of the reality of the situation.

Your motor WILL blow, your trans WILL break, your t-case WILL break. All of them take money and time. Do you track it at all on a road course? I'm sure AMS just spends way too much money putting together their competition cars. You must not need any of that stuff to make a reliable track machine...I'm sure David B. definitely didn't need a built trans or built motor or head in the bad bish.

Look at ANY of the 600-700+whp cars on this forum that last for more than a season even on just street. All of them are well thought out builds that do not in any way include cutting corners. It doesn't matter how good your tuner is, there is a point where power starts breaking stock ****. Your tuner can't change the laws of physics.

At the end of the day a RELIABLE 600-700whp car is one that you don't have to pull apart all the time. If you think you can do that with much less than 15-20k all the power to you, don't preach and try and get other people to gamble with their motors/trans etc when things blowing up ends up costing more than doing it right the first time. Doing things the right way is the most cost effective way to modify cars. It hasn't ever changed.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 03:25 PM
  #39  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
yadda yadda yadda, car makes great power and for someone who don't wanna argue with anything your sure doing a great job of tring to get me to say my car wont at some point in time. Hell you point out in anything I have said that states I said the at some point will not break? Point being to the origional statement that it will cost you 20k+ to build a 600 hp car. Did you look at the link I posted? Yes he drags his car all the time and God knows what else. Do I? no not yet. I like actually driving my evo daily at the hp I am at. I have a talon for a drag car if I wanted to go to the track. So you ask me where does the relibility come in? hmmm..... lets see I drive the car every day, I drive it hard when I do drive it, do I launch it every day? No I do not I DRIVE IT. Do I take people out and scare the **** out of them in the car? Yep you bet your *** I do. I have been driving with pretty much this power since Idk middle of summer. Your gonna come back with oh thats not that long. Sure its not that long point being I still drive it everyday, car makes good power, tranny and t case are fine and will continue to be fine till I do upgrade. If anyone has anyother complaints go talk to Mike Rizzotti. Oh he drives a dsm, sure he does point being he ran a stock block IN A TALON deep into the 9s draging it a ton. So Don't hand me this **** it can't be done reliable cause it has and will be until I decide to blow it up and start over.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 03:30 PM
  #40  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
Originally Posted by SDevo13
I'm sure AMS just spends way too much money putting together their competition cars. You must not need any of that stuff to make a reliable track machine...I'm sure David B. definitely didn't need a built trans or built motor or head in the bad bish.
Ahh and this, if I could only have endless money like David, and AMS shops and wanted to drop 100s ok thousands of dollars into a car and say I still drive it on the street. You forget they try to extract every single ounce of performance from there cars. Whats the difference you may ask? I don't thats the difference. I have a goal, I am about at that goal I drive the car and its doing wonderful. Your gonna come back with IT WILL BREAK. As stated before sure it will. I expect it to but that isnt gonna keep me from going out and spending 20k plus as you suggested to get it right. I'll spend what I know is way under 20k and live with it. If it breaks I have 4 other cars I can drive Not worried about it.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 03:44 PM
  #41  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
 
SDevo13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SD
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For the average person a reliable 600-700whp car will cost atleast 15-20k in mods, more if you aren't wrenching at all. You aren't even at 600whp, great that your stock block is holding up at 550, a lot of them do for a while. As has been stated a million different times on this board - its not a question of if it will break, but when it will break.

You are misleading people to believe they can have a RELIABLE car with the bare minimum. I understand that you aren't going to spend 20k yada yada yada. BUT to say that with your half assing a car won't end up costing the AVERAGE person atleast the same if not more than doing it right way the first time you are mistaken. Having 4 other cars to drive WHEN your car breaks isn't a luxury everyone has, nor is hook ups, nor is doing all of their own work. It's great that it works for you, but you are NOT an average evo owner.

EDIT*** by definition - expecting your car to break because you won't do it right until it does = UNRELIABLE

Last edited by SDevo13; Dec 1, 2011 at 03:51 PM.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 03:54 PM
  #42  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (46)
 
tsidrift1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I stand with cursedsm, it wouldnt take me 20k to get a 600hp reliable car. I would say you could spend 20k if you gave it to a shop and said I want 600hp. To those who wrench ourselves and source out the parts that are NEEDED, not parts for show or baller status, we can do it for much less than 20k.

Part of your 20k you added up was a stand alone and a $1000 tune!!?? Where in the F are you getting tuned where they are charging you $1000!!?? And standalone?? Why??? Stock ecu has done 600hp with ease. It seems your 20k is about right if you get everything, even stuff thats not needed.

I bet you, 10k, I can have a more than reliable 600hp evo. Hell, give me a built block, a bb black and some injectors, Ill get my 600whp and drive the thing daily like I stole it

Speaking of dsms, I can have 600hp in a dsm for even less, due to "evo tax", an evo cost more to get there.

Last edited by tsidrift1; Dec 1, 2011 at 03:58 PM.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 04:00 PM
  #43  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
 
SDevo13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SD
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Show me a turbo kit, built motor, and trans/tcase, clutch, fmic, fuel system, injectors, tune, intake, exhaust, head studs, valve springs, and gaskets for 10k...

much less gauges etc...

Last edited by SDevo13; Dec 1, 2011 at 04:02 PM. Reason: forgot a few things
Old Dec 1, 2011, 04:00 PM
  #44  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
We are gonna go all day about this. 700whp was never in the convo it was 600whp how it became 700whp Idk you brought it up. When do I drive 4 cars? I do it all the time. One to work, evo when I get home, Camaro to tool around in on the weekends or to dinner, Talon at the track or around town to get grocerys. One thing we can agree on is we dont agree. Lets get one thing straight, I am not misleading anyone. I have no secrets in my setup, Everything on my car is listed in my sig. I still am wondering how I am half assing things if I decide that the stock motor will handle the power I am putting down to it. Point of all this was it can be done under 20k as you stated it would take. After going back and reading from the first post he never suggests racing the car he simply states he wants 500-600 hp which can be done on a stock block. Someone suggested in motor options where I did say yeah prob a good idea. with him not even saying he is racing the car saying he wants 500 to 600 hp on a 3076r it is safe to say you can do that on a stock motor. The key and I know your tired of hearing it is how the car is tuned.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 04:03 PM
  #45  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (3)
 
CurseDSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Pinckney, Michigan
Posts: 3,294
Received 204 Likes on 148 Posts
Originally Posted by SDevo13
Show me a turbo kit, built motor, and trans/tcase, fmic, fuel system, injectors, tune, intake, exhaust, head studs, valve springs, and gaskets for 10k...
I did on page 2. Again you don't need the t case and tranny to achieve this goal.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:21 PM.