battery relocation kit?? suggestions?
Dec 2, 2011, 06:43 PM
#18
I would recommend running a negative cable to the front and grounding to the block, and frame in the front as well as the frame in the back.
This is something I learned from P-R-S and it gives you some assurance that you will always have a good "ground."
On my other car I am building a full chassis and engine harness. And every circuit is grounded separately (engine, front lights, rear lights, ecu). I am making a GROUND drop point in the front, back and inside.
0 gauge wire might be overkill for a daily bur for a full race car it won't.
try 2 or 6 gauge tefzel wire..
This is something I learned from P-R-S and it gives you some assurance that you will always have a good "ground."
On my other car I am building a full chassis and engine harness. And every circuit is grounded separately (engine, front lights, rear lights, ecu). I am making a GROUND drop point in the front, back and inside.
0 gauge wire might be overkill for a daily bur for a full race car it won't.
try 2 or 6 gauge tefzel wire..
Dec 5, 2011, 03:27 AM
#19
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I've got my battery in the boot, bit of weight distribution 
Alloy holder, 4 gauge cable on a 200amp fuse and a distribution block on a plastic mount in the engine bay. The battery is grounded to the chassis where the battery tray mounts in the boot and into the inner wing (ran a thread tap into an OEM mount to make sure it was back to metal). The engine is grounded to the chassis using 2x 4 gauge cables. The car starts as smooth as ever and i've had NO issues since 
It keeps the battery warmer, gives more room in the bay for a mahoosive filter and means i don't have to use one of those rubbish odyssey batteries.
Alloy holder, 4 gauge cable on a 200amp fuse and a distribution block on a plastic mount in the engine bay. The battery is grounded to the chassis where the battery tray mounts in the boot and into the inner wing (ran a thread tap into an OEM mount to make sure it was back to metal). The engine is grounded to the chassis using 2x 4 gauge cables. The car starts as smooth as ever and i've had NO issues since It keeps the battery warmer, gives more room in the bay for a mahoosive filter and means i don't have to use one of those rubbish odyssey batteries.
Last edited by Steve220; Dec 5, 2011 at 03:30 AM.
Dec 6, 2011, 11:39 AM
#23
Evolved Member
to add my 0.02 im running an optima red top battery, relocated to the trunk with a taylor relocation kit, with iirc there 4gauge or 2 gauge wiring. Pretty straightforward install, if you have a system already in the trunk, then just use your power wire to the engine bay as your battery cable to the terminal underhood. If not then route it I went through drivers side of trunk underneath backseat, and ran it under the plastic door panels and underneath the carpet through the top of the fender well cover and into the opening behind drivers side headlight, just make sure to tape or seal each connector underhood so you dont short anything. Other then that on negative side I used two grounding points on top of underhood. I ran the one underhood to a bolt that was screwed into the passenger motor mount bracket. The Other two spots in trunk, one was grounded to a good ground behind the drivers side kick panel in trunk, other spot was in the top of the trunk next to the speakers. Have a little bit of dimmage here n there, but nothing consistent, i just chalk it up to electrical interference.
Apr 21, 2013, 11:59 PM
#25
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if you do not use a gel battery, you have to place it in an enclosed battery case or else most tracks will not let you get on. also they sometimes require a remote disconnect switch.
if its a daily driver, just get a Miata battery and put it in the stock location and save a lot of headache driver. its almost half the weight of stock and no power issues like with the oddysse
if its a daily driver, just get a Miata battery and put it in the stock location and save a lot of headache driver. its almost half the weight of stock and no power issues like with the oddysse
Jun 1, 2014, 09:14 PM
#28
Just unbolt it and throw it away. The ground in the rear does the same exact thing the one in the front did so the one in the front is unnecessary. As for kit I can't help you I just made my own relocation using some double ought cable and the distribution setup from an x for a more oem look. But as long as the length of cable for the power wire is long enough any of the taylor kits should work.
