Concerns: Garaged EVO??
Dec 8, 2011, 11:23 PM
#31
Please note that my personal advice is to IMMEDIATELY tune back to running gasoline. E85 will ruin every rubber component in the fuel system. You will want to run a few tanks of gasoline through the system prior to storage to minimize the damage E85 will do (this is why I am flabbergasted as to why people use E85 in anything other than a track-prepped car.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...years-e85.html
I cannot speak to leaving E85 in your tank since I don't know if that will play nice with STA-BIL. In that case, you may want to switch over to Premium (91/93/whatever it is in your area) and change maps then add in your STA-BIL.
A quick search on the web revealed this:
- Vehicles are always better off being driven on a regular basis.
- If you must store, store indoors where the wind can't get to your car.
- Car covers are ONLY for indoors use out of the wind, no matter what they advertise!
- It is better to let a car sit for months than to run it once a week for a few minutes. The reason is that you can't get the engine and other drivetrain parts warmed up enough to do any good and you will create condensation in the crankcase and exhaust that will help kill your car.
- Give your car a bath and good coat of wax including chrome trim before storage.
- Use a product like Wurth Rubber care on the seals/rubber trim, and Vinylex on tires.
- Clean the interior, use Lexol on the leather and Vinylex on the vinyl before storage. No need to go overboard and leave it dripping, just a normal treatment.
- A pan of charcoal bricks (not the type with fuel in them though!) in a pie tin on newspaper inside the car will help soak up odors.
- Leave windows cracked just a little to let some air circulate and let window seals relax so they seal better in the spring.
- Remove important papers from the car/glove box. Try to leave the HVAC system in OFF mode to help keep critters out.
- Give the car a good run and get it fully warmed up right before storage.
- Fresh fluids at this point are a good idea. Oil and filter, anti-freeze, power steering fluid, tranny fluid and brake fluid should all be changed right before storage. A week or two before storage is OK except the oil, make that as fresh as possible.
- Once the car is parked where it will sit, remove the battery, store in a cool dry place and trickle charge it once a month. Be sure to check the water level and fill if necessary.
- A modern trickle charger is a must have item for people that store vehicles for any period of time. Modern trickle chargers won't cause acid to boil away like a full fledged charger, but you should still check fluid every month just to be sure.
- Fill the gas tank before storing with fresh quality fuel. If you drive your car so little that last years gas is still mostly in the tank, then siphon it off and use it in the lawn mower or dispose of properly! Fresh gas will last a full year if kept at a fairly stable temperature below 80 degrees. Filling the tank helps prevent condensation which helps rust tanks and fuel systems. Fuel additives for storage are not needed if storing for less than a year.
- Do NOT put your car on jack stands or blocks under the frame. This lets the suspension droop and puts the springs and bushings in an unnatural state. If you want to prevent flat spots on tires (not a problem with modern radials anyway) support the car at the outermost points of the suspension so the springs and shocks/struts are in a natural state. Be sure to keep tires (remember the spare) at the correct air pressure and try to keep them away from electric motors or high heat.
- When storing on a dry floor, but DRY is the key there. A good way to insulate a concrete or even dirt/gravel floor for better storage is to put down one or two layers of thick plastic sheeting under a layer of old carpet.
- It's a good idea to put mouse bait/traps out in any garage. If you don't they will get under your car cover or sheets and make nests (usually near the base of the windshield), you will see their little pee spots on your hood! Left to run amok, mice can build nests in air intakes (seal them off with bags if you can get to them, and check airboxes/air cleaners before first starting), and even in the glove box or inside the seats.
- When starting the vehicle back up after storage, remove all your covers, bags over pipes, intakes, pans of charcoal, put the freshly charged battery back in and check all fluid levels. If possible disable the ignition and let the engine crank to build oil pressure. Make the first mile or so at slow speed and keep the rev's low till things warm up.
- Test the brakes before you get on the highway. Drums and disks WILL rust some unless you store your car in one of those sealed bags (not a bad idea, but I have found it unnecessary if you have a good garage) but that will go away after the first few stops.
Dec 9, 2011, 07:27 AM
#33
Do you have any data to back-up these claims? Not that I don't believe you, but I'm a concrete facts kind of guy. This guy has data that directly contradicts your statement. If you care, you may want to read it:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...years-e85.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...years-e85.html
Dec 9, 2011, 09:02 AM
#34
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Okay, this is just my 2 cents...
I just know from car storage for short periods (a year or so) and motorcycle storage (2+ years, plus every year for about 9 months since I live in the great state of Oregon)
Do whatever you want with the detailing it, depending on whether or not you plan on just keeping it in storage, or if you are having someone start and drive it. If you detail it, but then have someone drive it, it will only be as good as they keep it while you're gone. If you aren't going to have someone drive it, I would empty the gas tank (drive it until it begins to die), this is just me, but as the petroleum sits in the tank it will evaporate and expand also filling whatever space you store it in with fumes, and leave the gas cap OFF, so that it doesn't build up pressure in the tank. I mean if you are running e85 there is already water in your tank. I certainly wouldn't leave any e85 in it though as it will deteriorate any rubber it contacts. Also if you are not going to have anyone attend to it, I would disconnect and remove the battery fully. It will be dead by the time you get home anyway, also if you are just having someone start it, it will probably die anyhow, since odds are you would have to develop more RPMs ( I don't know what your 2.3 idles at) than at idle for the alternator to actually funtion well enough to recharge the battery. If you are going to have someone drive it, you should also account for maintenance that will need to be done. If you are not going to have someone look after it I would put it on jack stands, the suspension should be fine, but the concrete will secrete moisture from your tires, which coupled from the weight and pressure of the car will cause the flat spots. I would replace the tires any way when I got back just based upon the fact that letting them sit for 3 years without heating them, the rubber itself will react differently after that long. I wouldn't drain the oil because it will saturate the bottom end. I would definately drain the coolant and refill and flush with water, and then drain all of that, since the ethylene glycol will corrode anything. I would also put Calcium Chloride in a plastic container (it will expand as it draws moisture from the atmosphere (just put it in a tupperware container with holes poked in it). Now when you get back, it will be very important to drain the oil, and do an oil change, but also prime the system because all of the oil will drain out of the head if it is not being cycled.
Thats all I can really think of. I'm sure that things will be fine. Also though you may want to consider selling it, not that I advocate for it, but I am told that being in the military you can bring a car back with you, so you might be able to pick up a sick RHD Evo vii and bring it back...
I just know from car storage for short periods (a year or so) and motorcycle storage (2+ years, plus every year for about 9 months since I live in the great state of Oregon)
Do whatever you want with the detailing it, depending on whether or not you plan on just keeping it in storage, or if you are having someone start and drive it. If you detail it, but then have someone drive it, it will only be as good as they keep it while you're gone. If you aren't going to have someone drive it, I would empty the gas tank (drive it until it begins to die), this is just me, but as the petroleum sits in the tank it will evaporate and expand also filling whatever space you store it in with fumes, and leave the gas cap OFF, so that it doesn't build up pressure in the tank. I mean if you are running e85 there is already water in your tank. I certainly wouldn't leave any e85 in it though as it will deteriorate any rubber it contacts. Also if you are not going to have anyone attend to it, I would disconnect and remove the battery fully. It will be dead by the time you get home anyway, also if you are just having someone start it, it will probably die anyhow, since odds are you would have to develop more RPMs ( I don't know what your 2.3 idles at) than at idle for the alternator to actually funtion well enough to recharge the battery. If you are going to have someone drive it, you should also account for maintenance that will need to be done. If you are not going to have someone look after it I would put it on jack stands, the suspension should be fine, but the concrete will secrete moisture from your tires, which coupled from the weight and pressure of the car will cause the flat spots. I would replace the tires any way when I got back just based upon the fact that letting them sit for 3 years without heating them, the rubber itself will react differently after that long. I wouldn't drain the oil because it will saturate the bottom end. I would definately drain the coolant and refill and flush with water, and then drain all of that, since the ethylene glycol will corrode anything. I would also put Calcium Chloride in a plastic container (it will expand as it draws moisture from the atmosphere (just put it in a tupperware container with holes poked in it). Now when you get back, it will be very important to drain the oil, and do an oil change, but also prime the system because all of the oil will drain out of the head if it is not being cycled.
Thats all I can really think of. I'm sure that things will be fine. Also though you may want to consider selling it, not that I advocate for it, but I am told that being in the military you can bring a car back with you, so you might be able to pick up a sick RHD Evo vii and bring it back...
Dec 9, 2011, 09:39 AM
#35
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do not sell it! are you kidding me guys, he's going to come back why sell it? especially after all the work he has done to it. Keep it man that thing is fast and fun and unique to your own taste
Dec 9, 2011, 10:16 AM
#36
My point was that I see a lot if misinformation and 'big claims' on car forums.
OP - Storing the car is safe, just do some research first.
Dec 9, 2011, 11:49 AM
#37
I think there is something museums do to cars when they go in. For instance Honda took out 3 cars from their museum and game them away at work, so some ppl got like 1989 accord wagon with lik 2k miles on it..... they did some full service inspection, replaced wear/deterized parts (mostly rubber parts) and it was good to go.... the cars were given away like last spring or something so you can imagine how long they were in there lol
They also gave a way a 93 civic with like 4k miles on it.... it was pretty funny to see such an old car in such new condition
They also gave a way a 93 civic with like 4k miles on it.... it was pretty funny to see such an old car in such new condition
Last edited by GTijoejoe; Dec 10, 2011 at 12:54 AM. Reason: edit: lol, I was highly under the influence of pain meds when I wrote that, so many gram/sp
Dec 9, 2011, 11:57 AM
#38
I do want to make a comment about putting your car on jack stands...... The natural state of the damper and spring is its free length, if you put a vehicle on jack stands, place the stands underneath the subframe. Second, take the wheels off, this will aid in the weight of the wheel not hanging and trying to pull your bushings and damper.... this is just a precaution.
I hear all the time and a few posts up about this..... when you let your wheel hang when the vehicle is on the lift, your suspension is still not even close to the over rebound condition, it takes more wieght than just the wheel to make it sag to those conditions meaning, it is still well within the travel range of your sus., over all it does start to deform you sus bushings, which is why I would rec taking the wheels off.
All that being said, leaving a car on the ground is not an problem either, I actually haven't heard of ppl getting flat spots with newer tires, not saying its not common, but I've never spoke to our tire designers about it so I really have no insight there.
I hear all the time and a few posts up about this..... when you let your wheel hang when the vehicle is on the lift, your suspension is still not even close to the over rebound condition, it takes more wieght than just the wheel to make it sag to those conditions meaning, it is still well within the travel range of your sus., over all it does start to deform you sus bushings, which is why I would rec taking the wheels off.
All that being said, leaving a car on the ground is not an problem either, I actually haven't heard of ppl getting flat spots with newer tires, not saying its not common, but I've never spoke to our tire designers about it so I really have no insight there.
Dec 9, 2011, 10:59 PM
#40
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+1 on the above. If at all possible have someone start it at least once a month and cycle all accessories (ie a/c, heater, power steering). As stated above, I would also recommend storing the vehicle with 93 not e85. I do not know from experience, but I would think the alcohol in the E85 may cause any rubber in your fuel system to deteriorate faster. I have experienced flat spots from storage as well, so you can use the over inflation method from above (be sure to pay attention to max tire pressure on your tires), or I have seen a few products that "cradle" the bottoms of your tires. I hope everything works out for you, my Evo has been in storage off and on for three years, and right now it has been in storage for a year and has two more to go.
Okay, this is just my 2 cents...
Thats all I can really think of. I'm sure that things will be fine. Also though you may want to consider selling it, not that I advocate for it, but I am told that being in the military you can bring a car back with you, so you might be able to pick up a sick RHD Evo vii and bring it back...
Thats all I can really think of. I'm sure that things will be fine. Also though you may want to consider selling it, not that I advocate for it, but I am told that being in the military you can bring a car back with you, so you might be able to pick up a sick RHD Evo vii and bring it back...
PRIVATELY OWNED VEHICLES (POVS):
a. POV shipments are subject to embargo or waiver requirements. Effective 1 April 1996, the Assistant Secretary for Defense (for Management Policy) has granted limited case-by-case, waiver authority to Commander USFJ for shipment of post 1976 type vehicles to Mainland Japan only. Okinawa continues to be under an embargo status and is not included under this waiver authority. The waiver authority for Mainland Japan has been further delegated by USFJ to Component Commanders. When requesting a waiver the following information should be included: make/year/model of vehicle and vehicle identification number (VIN), if equipped with California emission. All DoD/military members/employees must obtain prior approval from their respective service authority in Japan named in para 8e. All imported motor vehicles must be registered by the Government of Japan.
-----
e. WAIVERS: All DOD/military members/employees must obtain prior approval from their respective service authority in Japan as indicated below for shipment of POVs. The following are the POC's for POV Waivers:
1. For all Army: Commander, USAG-J, Bldg 102, Room E100, Unit 45006, ATTN IMPC-JA-LGT-Z, APO AP 96343. Phone numbers: DSN 263-5154/4766; COMM 011-81-46-407-5154. DSN FAX: 315-263-8984. Email address: atozama@zama.army.mil
2. For Air Force:
a. Yokota AB, JA: 374 LRS/LGRDF, Unit 5120, Yokota AB, JA, APO AP 96328. Phone numbers: DSN 315-225-9733-9725; COMM: 011-81-3117-55-9733/9725. DSN FAX: 315-225-9606. Email address: 374LRS.LGRDF@YOKOTA.AF.MIL
b. Misawa AB, JA: 35 LRS/LGRDF, Misawa AB JA, Unit 5014, APO AP 96319-5014. Phone number: DSN 226-3525. DSN FAX: 226-2077. Email Address: 35 personalpropertyoffice@misawa.af.mil
3. For Navy and Marines: Commander, US Naval Forces, Japan ATTN: N-8, FPO AP 96349, phone number DSN 243-2065/3094. FAX number 243-3109.
https://tops.ppcigweb.sddc.army.mil/...countryCode=JA
You may be able to get transportation to ship one back for you, but I am sure it is a case by case basis.
Check out the JFTR as the weight you can ship is based on rank and dependents, as well as other factors. More than likely the only way you are getting a car to or from Japan is to pay for the shipping yourself (around 2,000 dollars if you split the cost of a 40ft container with others). And even if you do decide to get a RHD Evo (dont know why you would want a VII since they are almost the same car as a VIII or IX), the only way you would be able to bring it back to states is as a show or track car. If you did decided to do this you would not be able to register it or drive it as a street car in the United States until it is 25 years old. If you want to see the paperwork and forms required for importation check this out http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/import/ . I have almost entertained this idea as there are some fairly nice and affordable Evo 1-6's here, as well as some BNR32 GTR's that will be 25 years old when I leave in 2014. If I were to take a Evo back I would take back a Evo V or VI as a track car.
If you make to Okinawa in the next two years hit me up.
Oh yeah and for those of you saying sell it GTFO, in 2014 my car will have been in storage for 6 years out of 10.
Last edited by EvosnatcH; Dec 9, 2011 at 11:07 PM. Reason: addition
Dec 10, 2011, 01:04 AM
#42
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Shouldn't you store a car with a full tank? That's how they store air planes to prevent condensation in the tank. I would put fresh fluids in, a fresh tank of 93 and a lot of STA-BIL. Put it on jack stands and spray the rotors down with WD40 with the calipers removed. Throw a car cover on it and lock it up in a storage unit and PRE PAY the unit for a few months over the three years. Try and find one that's climate controlled. When you get home, drain the tank, send the injectors in to be cleaned/balanced, fresh spark plugs, and start her up. Enjoy your new to you car all over again.... I hope this helps. Selling a modded car in this economy is not an option. So if you can afford it, keep it.
Dec 10, 2011, 07:44 AM
#43
I would rec. however to run your fuel system with gasoline instead of E85 for a tank, I wouldn't want it lingering in my fuel rail and lines etc, fuel tank would be no problem. There is also gas stabilizer which is wise to get also.
It is also wise to put moth ***** down and also mice traps, car cover is a great idea... and of course unhook your battery. Believe it or not we've been studying the effect of corrosion from leaving your battery hooked up to cars which sit in parking lots (new cars from dealers and factories), little bit mysterious but we've seen increased amounts.