cant get into 2nd at high rpm
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cant get into 2nd at high rpm
noticed this when i went to the dragstrip. it was the first time i really took it up to redline since i had the car. 3 runs in a row i couldnt get it into 2nd or 3rd cleanly, it had to be a double clutch move.
since then, ive tried doing pulls and same problem. i can shift if im not shifting like im at the track (if that makes sense).
since then, ive tried doing pulls and same problem. i can shift if im not shifting like im at the track (if that makes sense).
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#4
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lock out is very common with act at higher rpms. specially if your pedal is not adjusted properly. Another thing that will make it hard to shift into 2nd, is if you are launching hard and the tires are still spinning while trying to up shift.
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Was going to suggest clutch adjust as well. If your clutch is not adjusted properly, essentially you are not fully disengaging the clutch when you change. Even with your foot to the floor. Even if it does turn out to be something else, this is a worthwhile thing to do.
heres basically what you want:
you know the slave cylinder bolted to the transmission by 2 bolts right? the slave cylinder has a rod that sticks out of it that rest against the fork arm which is attached to the throw out bearing.
What you want to do is confirm you can push that rod in by yourself.. use a towel or something so it doesnt hurt your hand when you try to push it in.. but make sure it compresses in and out all the way. If it does, then you're good there.
Now what you want to do is go down to your pedal assembly where the master cylinder rod is that is attached to your clutch pedal.
The idea here is to adjust that rod out as far as it will go while still being able to push in the slave cylinder rod.. once you adjust it out to far you will not beable to push in the slave cylinder rod and you are blocking fluid transfer from the slave to the master.
so lets say you adjusted the master cylinder rod out to far and you can no longer push in the slave rod.. then you would want to slowly adjust it the other way (inwards) until you can push in that slave cylinder rod again. Once you get it so you have maximum clutch pedal travel and can still push in the slave cylinder rod you have successfully just setup your clutch system for maximum clutch travel and the best settings possible.
what happens is if the slave rod cant be pushed in, that means fluid cant transfer back and forth from the slave and master and the bleeder valve will never self adjust as your clutch wears and it will eventually drag, slip, and destroy your clutch system.
Basically what i just did was write out what is explained in detail on jacks transmission video on youtube.
you know the slave cylinder bolted to the transmission by 2 bolts right? the slave cylinder has a rod that sticks out of it that rest against the fork arm which is attached to the throw out bearing.
What you want to do is confirm you can push that rod in by yourself.. use a towel or something so it doesnt hurt your hand when you try to push it in.. but make sure it compresses in and out all the way. If it does, then you're good there.
Now what you want to do is go down to your pedal assembly where the master cylinder rod is that is attached to your clutch pedal.
The idea here is to adjust that rod out as far as it will go while still being able to push in the slave cylinder rod.. once you adjust it out to far you will not beable to push in the slave cylinder rod and you are blocking fluid transfer from the slave to the master.
so lets say you adjusted the master cylinder rod out to far and you can no longer push in the slave rod.. then you would want to slowly adjust it the other way (inwards) until you can push in that slave cylinder rod again. Once you get it so you have maximum clutch pedal travel and can still push in the slave cylinder rod you have successfully just setup your clutch system for maximum clutch travel and the best settings possible.
what happens is if the slave rod cant be pushed in, that means fluid cant transfer back and forth from the slave and master and the bleeder valve will never self adjust as your clutch wears and it will eventually drag, slip, and destroy your clutch system.
Basically what i just did was write out what is explained in detail on jacks transmission video on youtube.
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#14
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had the same problem, and my solution was:
1. Adjusted the pedal
2. Bought a Blox front motor mount like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...tormount0.jpg/
Im on a ACT sprung 6 puck with HD pressure plate, 20K on it and TONS of launches with no lockout at high RPM shifts
1. Adjusted the pedal
2. Bought a Blox front motor mount like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...tormount0.jpg/
Im on a ACT sprung 6 puck with HD pressure plate, 20K on it and TONS of launches with no lockout at high RPM shifts