Is this evo 8 worth it?
#31
This guy needs to go back to his 240sx 7-9k for an evo that's running with no body damage. That's simply ridiculous. They sell TOTALLED with major body damage for that much. Check your numbers kid, your way off. Nobody in their right mind will sell a good running evo for under 10k, even if it has 150k miles.
#32
Look at evo's with 20k-40k+ in mods going for 25-30k. Hell even the insanespeed evo is under 30 right now. Market is flooded. Lowballers is what you get because someone will eventually take the lowball offer in this market
#33
The price is optimistic but I would pay it if the seller included a compression or leakdown test (that was clean), a boost leak test (fix any problems), and the 120k mile service (including timing & balance belt change, driveline fluid changes, etc.). After the service(s), it would be worth the asking price.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#34
It's tough making a thread like this, as everyone comes into the thread saying that they got their car for $8K with 20K miles (over exaggeration), and makes it seem like they got the best deal in the world. However, what people won't tell you is that parts were broken, paint was in bad condition, etc.
Thus, don't listen to what one person says is the proper price for an Evo, as it's more or less what it's worth to the buyer.
Yes, you want to get the best deal that you can, however, I think what is more important is finding a car that you know for a fact has been taken care of, a car that you know hasn't been driven into the ground, etc.
My point is this: Save up another month/year/however long it takes and purchase a car with maintenance records, owned by someone who can prove that they took care of the car. Buying a car for 10-12K from a dealer who knows nothing about a car is, in my opinion, asking for a headache, especially when talking about a car that is specifically sought after for it's modifying potential.
Even a compression test doesn't really tell you if the motor is read to fail or not. It simply rules out a car having a broken ring land or something of the sort, causing it to be down on compression. It tells you nothing about what your bearings look like or how long the motor will last you.
I know some may disagree, but I paid a little less for my car that normal when I bought it, and in the first six months I have done a motor, clutch, turbo, t-case, head gasket (on first motor), head studs, IC, radiator, gauges (that went bad), wheel bearings, brakes, cam seals, valve guides/seals, radio, fluids, misc interior parts, thermostat, etc.
The scary part is that the car had no signs of any of these parts being ready to fail when I purchased it. However, it just completely fell apart a week after I had the car.
Yes, that may not happen to everyone that tries to save a little money when buying their car, however, more often than not, your repair bills will outweigh the price that you saved when buying a cheaper Evo.
High milage shouldn't be the determining factor; maintenance should.
Good luck on your search.
Thus, don't listen to what one person says is the proper price for an Evo, as it's more or less what it's worth to the buyer.
Yes, you want to get the best deal that you can, however, I think what is more important is finding a car that you know for a fact has been taken care of, a car that you know hasn't been driven into the ground, etc.
My point is this: Save up another month/year/however long it takes and purchase a car with maintenance records, owned by someone who can prove that they took care of the car. Buying a car for 10-12K from a dealer who knows nothing about a car is, in my opinion, asking for a headache, especially when talking about a car that is specifically sought after for it's modifying potential.
Even a compression test doesn't really tell you if the motor is read to fail or not. It simply rules out a car having a broken ring land or something of the sort, causing it to be down on compression. It tells you nothing about what your bearings look like or how long the motor will last you.
I know some may disagree, but I paid a little less for my car that normal when I bought it, and in the first six months I have done a motor, clutch, turbo, t-case, head gasket (on first motor), head studs, IC, radiator, gauges (that went bad), wheel bearings, brakes, cam seals, valve guides/seals, radio, fluids, misc interior parts, thermostat, etc.
The scary part is that the car had no signs of any of these parts being ready to fail when I purchased it. However, it just completely fell apart a week after I had the car.
Yes, that may not happen to everyone that tries to save a little money when buying their car, however, more often than not, your repair bills will outweigh the price that you saved when buying a cheaper Evo.
High milage shouldn't be the determining factor; maintenance should.
Good luck on your search.
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