silverIXMR

iTrader: (3)

if its snapping i would think you probably have a siezed pulley somewhere or its rubbing on something.

prowakeskater

iTrader: (14)

I pulled it yesterday with no luck.


The belt isn't snapping per say, it jumping off a tooth or two on the alternator and then continues to get chewed the **** up and dies

civicej8

iTrader: (8)

Well you gotta inspect the pulleys. If you can't tell which. One is bent then rev the car pretty high rpm and watch it and see what happens.

Hb55047

I had the same exact problem. Drove me nuts as I was changing the belt every week. Turns out the previous owner replaced the alternator with a non dealer model. The pulley is slightly different. Ordered just the pulley from the dealer and that fixed my problem.

Taimur

iTrader: (5)

This happened to me on my Supra. Whenever I used to shift hard the belt would jump and get chewed up. When I changed to a ATI crank pulley it wasn't pressed on a 100% on, though to the naked eye it was impossible to tell. Took off the pulley, cleaned up the crank snout and the inside of the crank pulley then reinstalled with the correct torque settings and problem was solved.

If you recently had any work related to cams, crank pulley or any other pulley, make sure everything is torqued and installed properly.

civicej8

iTrader: (8)

get a long straight edged ruler and see if they all line up.

prowakeskater

iTrader: (14)

I did recently have cams installed... the shop that did it installed the TB shaft wrong when they replaced my shaft seals, didn't torque my Tbolt clamp on the TB so it popped off on the way home, and they forgot to torque my lug nuts on both front wheels... which almost ended badly.

I inspected every pulley and they all move freely, although the the topmost pulley in-between the alternator and PS pump doesn't like to keep spinning with its momentum like the others.. It just stops quicker than the rest when its spun fast. I can't imagine its playing a role.

I just installed a new belt. 57.5" dayco (warranty replacement). When I rev the engine, the tensioner moves.

Im noticing that the tensioner is VERY close to is max tension capability when I rev it. Im starting to think it can't keep up when the belt begins to stretch. Even with this brand new belt, its dangerously close to its maximum position.

Im going to try running a 57" belt or closer to it than 57.5"

Wish me luck

prowakeskater

iTrader: (14)

Been going on 1000 miles with a standard gates belt with ac delete and no issues. Looks like my troubles are gone, thanks to a stronger belt

Rocksolid58

im in the same situation now. Did you run the ac delete belt even tho you have ac?

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

I also ended up with Gates too and so far so good. i think what was causing my belts to break was it jumps one groove and rides the edge of my ATI damper. I think this was caused by a bad 'fabricated' alternator arm. I bought an oe arm and made it work and so far no issues.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-ev...ernator-pulley

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

might not be a good idea if you want maximum spark

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

what do you mean? i actually do run this one.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

well spark intensity is directly related to battery voltage. So thinking about keeping a small batt charged (keeping it at 14v+) when several things like 2 fans draining are it, an efficient alternator is required. underdriven pulleys might affect that efficiency. One of these days i might be able to log the old stock alt to see if a higher Amp alt has any benefit

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

ahhh. from what I recall though, our alternators are apparently very, very efficient? idk.