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Alternator issue- fusebox MELTED!

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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 09:51 PM
  #31  
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From: Woodbridge, VA
Originally Posted by BoostINurI
Good work man...get a 120-100amp breaker an you should be good.
yea im going to order one.. its still running good btw.. with no issues
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #32  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
thread bump for updatE?
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #33  
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From: Ventura, Ca
Hopefully you have it fixed by now but.. You want your circuit breaker/ fuse block close as you can get to the battery, always. Having your fuse block in the engine compartment, is useless, since you have 10 ft+ electrical wire/ thick power wire running through your car.

Waterproof marine breakers (ie 100+ amp) can be had for cheap.. Cheap insurance.

Heres how I mounted mine in the trunk.. Very close to the battery.
Attached Thumbnails Alternator issue- fusebox MELTED!-img_0831.jpg  

Last edited by BEKevo; Feb 10, 2013 at 10:26 PM.
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:17 PM
  #34  
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From: Panama
My stock alternator tested 120amps on the bench. Also people really need to rethink the importance of relocating the battery to the trunk when u start weighing 18ft or whatever of 0 gauge and a battery box to pass tech, that you wouldn't need if it was in the front....you ain't saving squat.

Last edited by Grimgrak; Feb 11, 2013 at 10:03 AM.
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #35  
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From: Woodbridge, VA
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
thread bump for updatE?
i ended up using a 150 amp breaker back near the battery for the + power cable... then a 140amp breaker up front in engine bay to connect the starter, alt and fuse box.. haven't had a issue in a year and some change.. good so far
Originally Posted by BEKevo
Hopefully you have it fixed by now but.. You want your circuit breaker/ fuse block close as you can get to the battery, always. Having your fuse block in the engine compartment, is useless, since you have 10 ft+ electrical wire/ thick power wire running through your car.

Waterproof marine breakers (ie 100+ amp) can be had for cheap.. Cheap insurance.

Heres how I mounted mine in the trunk.. Very close to the battery.
reason i did it that way was because i didn't want to add new cables to the starter/ alt/ fuse box.. so i used the existing cable and put a distribution block where they all met.. only issue was that it was to small of a fuse (100amp)

but yea its been fixed.. it actually looks similar to yours just a lil bit cleaner lol jkjk

Originally Posted by Grimgrak
My stock alternator tested 120amps on the bench. Also people really need to rethink the importance of relocating the battery to the trunk when u start weighing 18ft or whatever of 0 gauge and a battery box to pass tech, that you wouldn't need if it was in the front....you ain't saving squat.
i didn't relocate to save weight.. my purpose was to move it out of my way.. it was annoying at times and i didn't want to get the small battery kit. I work at a wire shop and had unlimited wiring there so took advantage of the relocation
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #36  
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From: Ventura, Ca
Originally Posted by Darkn3s
reason i did it that way was because i didn't want to add new cables to the starter/ alt/ fuse box.. so i used the existing cable and put a distribution block where they all met.. only issue was that it was to small of a fuse (100amp)

but yea its been fixed.. it actually looks similar to yours just a lil bit cleaner lol jkjk

haha glad to hear you fixed it man.. Post a pic
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:55 PM
  #37  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
Originally Posted by Grimgrak
My stock alternator tested 120amps on the bench. Also people really need to rethink the importance of relocating the battery to the trunk when u start weighing 18ft or whatever of 0 gauge and a battery box to pass tech, that you wouldn't need if it was in the front....you ain't saving squat.
4 pound battery in the trunk with 0 gauge wire. Where is that weight now in X, Y, and Z?

How does that change my center of gravity? How does that change my corner balance?

Not everything is just gross weight reduction, but it's where you put the weight that counts.

The Binary seat brackets are a great idea because they relocate your toosh lower than you were before. Reduces cog, reduces weight transfer for a given suspension setup, reduces tire load on the outside tires, and improves grip due to tire sensitivity. Boom your car has just become incrementally better handling than it was before.

If you do this with every modification you do.. it adds up over time. Then when you wonder how I hustle you around a course with the same weight and same horsepower... maybe you'll be perplexed, but maybe you'll see the importance of the details.
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #38  
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From: Panama
I have my acd in the rear passenger side and my Battery are individual lithium cells wrapped down low on my subframe. A trunk relocation only makes sense if your living in the 90s with tech of that era.

Then again if your the type to like impractical and expensive things then by all means go get yourself an EFR.
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
4 pound battery in the trunk with 0 gauge wire. Where is that weight now in X, Y, and Z?

How does that change my center of gravity? How does that change my corner balance?

Not everything is just gross weight reduction, but it's where you put the weight that counts.

The Binary seat brackets are a great idea because they relocate your toosh lower than you were before. Reduces cog, reduces weight transfer for a given suspension setup, reduces tire load on the outside tires, and improves grip due to tire sensitivity. Boom your car has just become incrementally better handling than it was before.

If you do this with every modification you do.. it adds up over time. Then when you wonder how I hustle you around a course with the same weight and same horsepower... maybe you'll be perplexed, but maybe you'll see the importance of the details.

Last edited by Grimgrak; Feb 11, 2013 at 09:18 PM.
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:46 PM
  #39  
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From: Ventura, Ca
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
4 pound battery in the trunk with 0 gauge wire. Where is that weight now in X, Y, and Z?

How does that change my center of gravity? How does that change my corner balance?

Not everything is just gross weight reduction, but it's where you put the weight that counts.

The Binary seat brackets are a great idea because they relocate your toosh lower than you were before. Reduces cog, reduces weight transfer for a given suspension setup, reduces tire load on the outside tires, and improves grip due to tire sensitivity. Boom your car has just become incrementally better handling than it was before.

If you do this with every modification you do.. it adds up over time. Then when you wonder how I hustle you around a course with the same weight and same horsepower... maybe you'll be perplexed, but maybe you'll see the importance of the details.
BOOM very true R/TErnie
Old Feb 11, 2013 | 08:52 PM
  #40  
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From: Woodbridge, VA
Originally Posted by BEKevo
haha glad to hear you fixed it man.. Post a pic
ill try to snap one when i get to the shop
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