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Did Anyone Else Replace This?

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Old Mar 24, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Did Anyone Else Replace This?

Hi,
When I bought my Evo 8 recently I found a problem with the rear right hand window. It would work from the rear right hand door itself but would not work at all from the drivers door control panel. Myself and a mechanic checked wiring, checked switches etc. and found nothing obvious so first we replaced the drivers door control panel with another one. The problem still occured, i could control all the other windows besides the rear right hand window. So then we repaced the actuator with the motor and all, and still the same problem persisted, where I could only control the window from the switch on the rear right door itself.

The next conclusion we came to was the ETACS ECU (Electric Time & Alarm Control System) which controls the signal from the window switches amung other things is faulty. However as far as I know everything else is functioning correctly. Has anyone else replaced this unit? Or does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
Old Mar 24, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Fuseable link on the positive battery terminal? Check it.

I'm currently having a problem where my door lock switch doesn't work on driver's side after removing the link. I replaced it and still the same problem. I'm going to try a new switch next.
Old Mar 24, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Check the interconnect. There is a plug where the wiring harness from the door goes into the pillar. It may not be fully connected. You have to remove the trim on the pillar to see it
Old Mar 25, 2012, 05:50 AM
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Hi, thank you both for your replies.

I checked both the fuseable links on the battery and the interconnection. I could not find anythinh wrong with either. However, the interconnection behind the pillar is all taped up, im not sure if this was the mechanic after he checking this or was it someone previous. I am going to check the interconnection a bit better next week. Is there anyway of plugging in a multimeter into ceryain wires and then checking for current when the switch is pressed from the drivers door?

Anything else anyone can think of?
Old Mar 25, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JHS VIII
Hi, thank you both for your replies.

I checked both the fuseable links on the battery and the interconnection. I could not find anythinh wrong with either. However, the interconnection behind the pillar is all taped up, im not sure if this was the mechanic after he checking this or was it someone previous. I am going to check the interconnection a bit better next week. Is there anyway of plugging in a multimeter into ceryain wires and then checking for current when the switch is pressed from the drivers door?

Anything else anyone can think of?
That's exactly what I was thinking. I personally would of done that first before changing parts. But since you already did it, the only thing left is get a service manual from Mitsubishi to find out which wires you need to check.

I just heard last night that autozone has the manuals online but I haven't looked into it yet. Also just do a search on this forum. Someone might of uploaded the manuals.

Maybe I misunderstood but you replaced the driver doors switch? I've found most commonly that problem usually occurs in that doors switch that your having the problem with. In your case it's the right rear
Old Mar 25, 2012, 02:50 PM
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If its working at the switch at the back door, that should tell you the motor is fine and in no need of replacement. Might want to check into another mechanic unless your telling him what parts to replace. Sounds like he might be stumped and slinging parts at it on your dime.

I would start by tracing power to the switch at the door, test for voltage coming out of the switch when pressed on. Then set at the rear motor and test again for same power. If it shows no power from there, then its a wire somewhere. As Jack stated, I would check in the door with and check for voltage there. You should be able to find where you are getting voltage and where you are not.
Old Mar 26, 2012, 01:05 PM
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Hi, yes I agree with ye. To be honest I never thought it was this unit as its only for one door, but according to the mechanic he checked all the wiring, I will have a further look myself, thanks.

Will the serive repair manual show me which wires I should be checking current for?
Old Mar 26, 2012, 03:02 PM
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It should, but honestly I would get a cheap volt meter, find you a good ground and test for voltage. You wont really need the service manual as there are not alot of wires in that harness, but it may come in handy also. They are also color coated, so it will be easier to trace from connector to connector.

From what it sounds like to me is the rear is getting power/ground, so the back window works at its switch. But the signal from the drivers side switch is not sending the signal to the rear window. So start there, test the switch button both ways up and down. If you get 12volts (or close above or below 12v's) then follow the wire into the Drivers side door harness connector. Test both sides of the door harness and also jiggle the harness connector while your testing to see if movement messes with the voltage too. From there go to the rear door harness, might have to have a somebody help you here so you can test voltage in the harness while somebody else uses the switch at the drivers door. Follow that into the switch.

If you need help just post back or pm me. Im not much help, but will do what I can for you.
Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AWDBus
It should, but honestly I would get a cheap volt meter, find you a good ground and test for voltage. You wont really need the service manual as there are not alot of wires in that harness, but it may come in handy also. They are also color coated, so it will be easier to trace from connector to connector.

From what it sounds like to me is the rear is getting power/ground, so the back window works at its switch. But the signal from the drivers side switch is not sending the signal to the rear window. So start there, test the switch button both ways up and down. If you get 12volts (or close above or below 12v's) then follow the wire into the Drivers side door harness connector. Test both sides of the door harness and also jiggle the harness connector while your testing to see if movement messes with the voltage too. From there go to the rear door harness, might have to have a somebody help you here so you can test voltage in the harness while somebody else uses the switch at the drivers door. Follow that into the switch.

If you need help just post back or pm me. Im not much help, but will do what I can for you.
Yes I see where your coming from, I am definitely going to look into this over the next couple of days, as soon as I get free time ill have a look

Sound, thanks I will, appreciate it.
Old Mar 27, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by AWDBus
It should, but honestly I would get a cheap volt meter, find you a good ground and test for voltage. You wont really need the service manual as there are not alot of wires in that harness, but it may come in handy also. They are also color coated, so it will be easier to trace from connector to connector.

From what it sounds like to me is the rear is getting power/ground, so the back window works at its switch. But the signal from the drivers side switch is not sending the signal to the rear window. So start there, test the switch button both ways up and down. If you get 12volts (or close above or below 12v's) then follow the wire into the Drivers side door harness connector. Test both sides of the door harness and also jiggle the harness connector while your testing to see if movement messes with the voltage too. From there go to the rear door harness, might have to have a somebody help you here so you can test voltage in the harness while somebody else uses the switch at the drivers door. Follow that into the switch.

If you need help just post back or pm me. Im not much help, but will do what I can for you.
I don't know why this wasn't done in the first place. You need to take your dvom and check for voltage drops & wiggle test all connectors. Make sure to pull out your schematic and check your wiring. Listen to what AWDBus is telling you. Throwing parts at a problem is a big mechanics no no. You might get yourself into more trouble by creating new issues.

You should be able to trace the issue down by checking for current. Don't forget to check all your grounds. GL bud!




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