Car still doesn't start right away?
Apr 16, 2012, 05:28 AM
#16
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It's the barrel switch where you put in your key. You need to get one from a crashed car, or new. They develop minute cracks when you use a heavy set of keys and a key chain. Eventually, it will not start at all. You can start the car still if that's the case, by bridging the starter to the positive on the battery, but change it in the mean time.
Apr 18, 2012, 11:43 PM
#17
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Another thing to note too is that it does this A LOT more when it is warm/hot outside. When it is cold/cool it will start on one of the first few tries whereas it can take 10+ tries to get it started when it is hot.
Apr 25, 2012, 02:00 PM
#18
Hey I am having the same issue. I have already replaced my starter and the previous one I had was tested to be working fine. What the starter guy told me is that most likely it is the ground clip that clips to the starter. If this is somewhat loose it will not complete the circuit when it is hot outside. I am about to check the clip to see if I can secure it better. I will keep you posted. Check that clip first, most likely it is our problem.
Apr 25, 2012, 06:26 PM
#19
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Hey I am having the same issue. I have already replaced my starter and the previous one I had was tested to be working fine. What the starter guy told me is that most likely it is the ground clip that clips to the starter. If this is somewhat loose it will not complete the circuit when it is hot outside. I am about to check the clip to see if I can secure it better. I will keep you posted. Check that clip first, most likely it is our problem.
Apr 28, 2012, 05:51 PM
#20
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I can check but how would I do so?
Would it be possible for you to take a picture of what you're talking about? If it's the same thing I remember seeing when I was having it changed, I think it is connected.
Where is the test lead and how do I check that? Is it something that I would just need to tighten up?
Would it be possible for you to take a picture of what you're talking about? If it's the same thing I remember seeing when I was having it changed, I think it is connected.
Where is the test lead and how do I check that? Is it something that I would just need to tighten up?
Apr 30, 2012, 11:13 AM
#21
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To check the thing I'm talking about, disconnect your battery. Unscrew the cover below the steering wheel, unscrew the part where you put your key and then unscrew the white cylinder, which is where the switches are. If you look inside, and at the back, you will most likely see hairline cracks in the connections. A new one is your best bet. I'm not guaranteeing this is the problem, but it was on my 7 many years ago, with similar symptoms to what you're seeing now.
May 1, 2012, 11:57 AM
#22
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To check the thing I'm talking about, disconnect your battery. Unscrew the cover below the steering wheel, unscrew the part where you put your key and then unscrew the white cylinder, which is where the switches are. If you look inside, and at the back, you will most likely see hairline cracks in the connections. A new one is your best bet. I'm not guaranteeing this is the problem, but it was on my 7 many years ago, with similar symptoms to what you're seeing now.
Bump for more suggestions or how-to's on how to check the other things people mentioned.
Jun 22, 2012, 12:27 PM
#25
Bump for a resolution. This has happened to be at least twice so far both times when it was hot I let my car sit a few minutes and then it'll start like nothing ever happened.
Since the car starts is it more likely to be ignition related, perhaps a new ignition switch?
Since the car starts is it more likely to be ignition related, perhaps a new ignition switch?
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