curiosity tech questions
#1
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curiosity tech questions
So I've got a few puzzling tech curiosity questions that I just don't understand. Some of them, of course, are from having never owned a turbo'd car. Anyway, here's hoping you could please shed some light:
1) I don't understand why in the stock setup, boost is set to taper off above ~5,000(?) RPM, when you can just add a MBC or EBC and keep the boost totally fixed through the entire rev range? Seems then that this stock setup would cause the car to feel like it's really "running out of steam" once the boost starts to drop and that it would feel like it's really straining up to redline. This would NOT be a good feeling, I would think.
2) Is it true that, in order to get anything under about 5.5 secs to 60 you have to rape the clutch in which case it will die after 5-10 such launches? Does this mean, therefore, that "realistically" one should expect 0-60 runs of "only" the mid-5s to low 6's? DISCLAIMER: I know that 0-60 runs are more or less meaningless; still it's fun to know whether, by the numbers at least, which cars you can "play" with now and then on Wilshire Blvd in LA in between track days.
3) If the answer to (2) is yes, then why doesn't everyone in the Cali region just head straight over to Rod and Ryss Millen's shop down in Long Beach? And how much should a nice clutch + install cost, roughly? I got my Sparco seats for my Mustang as one of my last track mods and they REALLY hooked me up on cost ... $1000 for the pair. Cheapest I found them for online was $1400-1600.
4) Ummm... forgot for now ... maybe it was the rust issue with something in the butt of the car? Maybe it was really just how illegible the gagues are?
Thank you!!
--Marc
1) I don't understand why in the stock setup, boost is set to taper off above ~5,000(?) RPM, when you can just add a MBC or EBC and keep the boost totally fixed through the entire rev range? Seems then that this stock setup would cause the car to feel like it's really "running out of steam" once the boost starts to drop and that it would feel like it's really straining up to redline. This would NOT be a good feeling, I would think.
2) Is it true that, in order to get anything under about 5.5 secs to 60 you have to rape the clutch in which case it will die after 5-10 such launches? Does this mean, therefore, that "realistically" one should expect 0-60 runs of "only" the mid-5s to low 6's? DISCLAIMER: I know that 0-60 runs are more or less meaningless; still it's fun to know whether, by the numbers at least, which cars you can "play" with now and then on Wilshire Blvd in LA in between track days.
3) If the answer to (2) is yes, then why doesn't everyone in the Cali region just head straight over to Rod and Ryss Millen's shop down in Long Beach? And how much should a nice clutch + install cost, roughly? I got my Sparco seats for my Mustang as one of my last track mods and they REALLY hooked me up on cost ... $1000 for the pair. Cheapest I found them for online was $1400-1600.
4) Ummm... forgot for now ... maybe it was the rust issue with something in the butt of the car? Maybe it was really just how illegible the gagues are?
Thank you!!
--Marc
#2
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1) Mitsubishi probably did this for safety/longevity/emissions reasons.
2) You definitely have to get a good launch (aka possibly clutch-frying) in order to get a sub-6 second 0-60 time. That said, Evo's _really_ aren't intended for this application, you want a car that will fry tires, not the clutch/transmission if you want to drag race. But to each their own..
I'll let others handle the rest of the questions. Personally, I'd really prefer the stock gauges to be bigger but it's not a deal breaker for me.
2) You definitely have to get a good launch (aka possibly clutch-frying) in order to get a sub-6 second 0-60 time. That said, Evo's _really_ aren't intended for this application, you want a car that will fry tires, not the clutch/transmission if you want to drag race. But to each their own..
I'll let others handle the rest of the questions. Personally, I'd really prefer the stock gauges to be bigger but it's not a deal breaker for me.
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I agree- I'm not into 1/4-mile "track" days either; I'm definitely all about open track events at road courses here in California. I was just curious, that's all. Cuz there is definitely those times where you're just next to a guy in a car costing way more than yours, and you just wanna take him!!
Anway but yeah so would you recommend heading down to Millen's shop and just getting them to install a high perf clutch? Cuz that should solve the clutch burning out problem right?
Anway but yeah so would you recommend heading down to Millen's shop and just getting them to install a high perf clutch? Cuz that should solve the clutch burning out problem right?
#4
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2) every car gets raped to have a good 0-60
4) i was at the body shop yesterday looking at the damage to my evo, the bumper cover was off. there was no rust... and i live in seattle... and i drove in some of the worst rain storms we've had this year, 6000 miles, no rust.
4) i was at the body shop yesterday looking at the damage to my evo, the bumper cover was off. there was no rust... and i live in seattle... and i drove in some of the worst rain storms we've had this year, 6000 miles, no rust.
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Yeah, but it's easy for these automatic guys to just stomp on the pedal at a light. They can do it every time. Even a much slower car can always get a jump on us from a start because there is no skill or thought involved.
I never launch and always street start somewhere under 2K. Most people are in a hurry where I live and blast off every time. So who cares what you can get 0-60. We know what are cars can do if we launch and that's enough ammo for me.
I never launch and always street start somewhere under 2K. Most people are in a hurry where I live and blast off every time. So who cares what you can get 0-60. We know what are cars can do if we launch and that's enough ammo for me.
#6
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1. Probably to encourage shifting prior to redline to get back into the sweetest of the sweet spot. Help provide longevity to the engine that way.
2. You will ruin the clutch with very many drag starts. It's either ruin the clutch or ruin the drivetrain so they have it set to ruin the less expensive component. Stick to the roadcourses which are more what the car is designed and meant for.
2. You will ruin the clutch with very many drag starts. It's either ruin the clutch or ruin the drivetrain so they have it set to ruin the less expensive component. Stick to the roadcourses which are more what the car is designed and meant for.
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I read somewhere that Mitsu retards the boost at higher rpm to compensate the poorer quality gas that we have here in US (read: Kaliforni-argh). Otherwise, it will create a detonation.
As for the clutch, drop it from 6k rpm when necessary (i.e. when you are "challenged" by a worthy opponent). Just dont do it for every redlight you have.
As for the clutch, drop it from 6k rpm when necessary (i.e. when you are "challenged" by a worthy opponent). Just dont do it for every redlight you have.
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