Moving cross country.Shipping Evo: open/enclosed transport? Experiences/advice?
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Moving cross country.Shipping Evo: open/enclosed transport? Experiences/advice?
So I took a transfer from southern California to Michigan and will be moving next month. I've got 3 vehicles to try and figure out how I want to get them from A to B. I know I'll be shipping my old SUV on an open transport. The best quote the wife can find so car has been around $800 for that. The Evo X would be nearly double that with the same company for "enclosed" transport. Is it worth paying double for the enclosed shipping? I'm not even exactly sure what they mean when they say it's enclosed. Are they saying inside a semi trailer? I guess I worry about them burning out my clutch or something trying to drive the Evo up ramps to load it on to an open trailer. I don't mind the Evo arriving dirty, but I guess I'm worried about mechanical damage, paint damage, body dings, and so on...
Option B would be to haul the Evo on a tow trailer behind a moving truck if we decide to move the household goods ourselves and just have the wife follow in her Outlander. That would probably be the cheaper option, however, I would much rather ship the household goods and the SUV and Evo if I could and enjoy the drive cross county in the Outlander with the wife without having to worry about the stress of driving a moving truck with Evo in tow. I like the idea of the PODS type moving option, but they seem to be crazy expensive. I guess I'll just have to run through the scenarios on paper and figure out what the different options would ultimately cost me.
Any advice, experience, tips from members that have had vehicles shipped? Anything to watch out for? Also any tips/advice/hookups on moving companies, shippers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Option B would be to haul the Evo on a tow trailer behind a moving truck if we decide to move the household goods ourselves and just have the wife follow in her Outlander. That would probably be the cheaper option, however, I would much rather ship the household goods and the SUV and Evo if I could and enjoy the drive cross county in the Outlander with the wife without having to worry about the stress of driving a moving truck with Evo in tow. I like the idea of the PODS type moving option, but they seem to be crazy expensive. I guess I'll just have to run through the scenarios on paper and figure out what the different options would ultimately cost me.
Any advice, experience, tips from members that have had vehicles shipped? Anything to watch out for? Also any tips/advice/hookups on moving companies, shippers would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
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open transport with protection on the front would be just fine if you don't mind it arriving dirty, it also depends on the size of the truck/ trailer. I'm moving from Indiana to Norcal and quoted a 10' Uhaul with car trailer for the evo and it was around $2100 without gas...
$800 for car shipping is average for 1 car, IMO I wouldn't waste the money on enclosed shipping.
$800 for car shipping is average for 1 car, IMO I wouldn't waste the money on enclosed shipping.
#3
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Enclosed transport is a specially-enclosed car trailer/transporter. The trailer usually has air suspension so that your car is not bounced & shaken around much. Also, by having your car in an enclosed tractor trailer, no one can see it, which is really a great benefit! Also, the weather can't get at it. Going cross country, the trucker can only drive so many hours. They have to pull in to truck stops to fuel-up and sleep. In an 'open' trailer, 'prying eyes' , or "lot lizards" as they are called, walk around at some truck rest stops, etc. and can help themselves to things.
I'm sure your "old SUV" will be fine in an 'open trailer', but personally (just me...), if I was shipping an Evo, she's going for a ride INSIDE...Best of luck!
I'm sure your "old SUV" will be fine in an 'open trailer', but personally (just me...), if I was shipping an Evo, she's going for a ride INSIDE...Best of luck!
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Thanks for the advice guys. Anyone that knows me can attest to my OCD when it comes to keeping my Evo in good condition. It's my weekend fun car and i do tend to baby it more than is normal. lol I don't want to spend cash needlessly, the rest of the move is going to cost enough as it is, but I know that if my 15K mile 08 Evo X shows up with unexplained mileage, a dent, or damage I'm going to be a little more than displeased.
Thanks again for the advice and wishes guys. This is proving to be a stressful time in my life uprooting the family to pursue another opportunity. Being a military man myself, I'm use to moving around when I was younger, but it's never easy to take a big leap of faith with your professional career and force a drastic change on your family by moving them 2,000 miles away. I'm hopeful that it's the right call for this point in our lives.
Hey, on the bright side, I realized last night that I'll be moving to within 300 miles of AMS Performance =) That was a big check in the win column!
Thanks again for the advice and wishes guys. This is proving to be a stressful time in my life uprooting the family to pursue another opportunity. Being a military man myself, I'm use to moving around when I was younger, but it's never easy to take a big leap of faith with your professional career and force a drastic change on your family by moving them 2,000 miles away. I'm hopeful that it's the right call for this point in our lives.
Hey, on the bright side, I realized last night that I'll be moving to within 300 miles of AMS Performance =) That was a big check in the win column!
#6
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when I bought mine I had it shipped up from FL in an open transport so about not even half the journey that yours will take. I was going to fly down and drive it back but the seller was willing to split the cost with me and with the price of a last minute one way ticket it was way cheaper to ship it. He washed the car before they loaded it and it did get a little dirty but that was it. If you have the extra $$ for an enclosed trailer I would do that.
#7
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I put my evo on a regular u-haul car trailer (open), from California to Nebraska. It was really clean when I loaded it up and got really dirty. Other than that it wasnt too bad, I was careful about which hotels and where I would park just in case. I always made sure I was able to view the car. I vote for enclosed if you can afford for it. Other than that I prefer to trailer it myself instead of shipping it. I have a bad habit of not trusting people.
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#10
When you ship the car in enclosed trailer they pick the cars up in order. They do that so they don't have to remove your car in and out. I found a good company who will ship the car from California to NEw York for 1,500 in enclosed trailer! If you tow your own vehicle with a truck you have chances of rocks hitting your car, I would only ship a vehicle in enclosed trailer if it's a really clean car. If its a DD and already abused some then just ship it on open trailer, my car is my weekend toy myself so no miles on her and no rock chips!
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Um, not really....
When you ship a car, the cars don't all go on at one place. So it's not:
Pick up at A,
drop off at B, then C, then D, then E, then F.
It's more like,
Pick up A, B, C, Drop off D, pick up E, pick up F, Drop off B, pick up G, drop off E, Drop off D, pick up H, Drop off A, pick up I, drop off G, Drop off A, drop off H.
So cars are constantly going on and off the trailers at truck stops before they drop off a car at the car's final destination. The good driver's will do their best to minimize the cars coming off and on their trailer because time is money, and you would rather be burning miles down the highway than loading/unloading cars.
Open trailers are typically 2 level ramps, with the cars staggered nose high, nose low so they can get an extra car or two on the trailer, and can accomodate vehicles of various heights.
Enclosed trailers are typically 2 level flats with a level elevator lift (tommy gate style) to bring the vehicles from the first or 2nd level to ground level.
I have shipped numerous cars and motorcycles cross country. And lately, the best way to ship is through U-ship:
Here's what I typically do....
I have 2 U-ship accounts...
On account A, I show a shipment of a VERY SIMILAR CAR to a zip code in my same city to a zip code in the same city I am moving to... I then leave this open for a week and let the bids come in. The bids you get for the first few days are FULL COST, WAY OVERPRICED, ONLY IDIOTS WOULD TAKE THIS OFFER.... Over the next few days I will get bids dropping and dropping, and typically on the last day you will get some very low bids...
By doing this, you will get an idea of what shippers are willing to actually do the job for...
Then Account B, I place the real shipment, with the real pick-up/delivery dates with the real car, and the real zip codes... I then place a "buy it now" price for $300 less than the lowest bidder from my earlier shipping bids. This will show that you are serious, and are really going to ship the car during those dates, and that you are budget minded. You will get E-mails from various shippers (first saying you are crazy and no one will take that price), then from truckers asking about specific dates trying to fill open spaces on their trucks. (they would rather take your low bid, than have an empty space on the truck as the fuel increases for an extra car are minimal). Towards the end of your bidding window, you will have a small bidding war.... and there's a good chance that someone will snag up your low ball buy it now price rather than risk losing the job to another bidder.
Now, here's some warnings...
You will get most of your bids from brokers... Review the broker's ratings, and reject their bids if their ratings are poor. Some brokers will snag the low ball bids, hoping they can find a truck to take the job, but will renig on the deal when they can't find a truck. I prefer dealing with truckers themselves, as it's their licence and insurance on the line.
ALL of them will say "oh, I took the job based on (whatever they say), but you clearly have (some excuse to charge you more... mostly it has to do with weight)" Tell them you provided all the information in the profile, and if they took the job without detailed research, that is their fault... Do not pay them any more than contracted.
I have gone down this road alot... please let me know if you have any questions. It's nerveracking, and stressfull, but typically it all comes out right.
Here's my latest project coming off a trailer from Phx AZ to Cocoa FL. I paid $900 for an un-running car shipped cross country
First bid was $2300, most bids were in the $1100-1200 range, and on the last day, a broker snagged it for $900. The trucker picked up 2 days early, and dropped 2 days early.
When you ship a car, the cars don't all go on at one place. So it's not:
Pick up at A,
drop off at B, then C, then D, then E, then F.
It's more like,
Pick up A, B, C, Drop off D, pick up E, pick up F, Drop off B, pick up G, drop off E, Drop off D, pick up H, Drop off A, pick up I, drop off G, Drop off A, drop off H.
So cars are constantly going on and off the trailers at truck stops before they drop off a car at the car's final destination. The good driver's will do their best to minimize the cars coming off and on their trailer because time is money, and you would rather be burning miles down the highway than loading/unloading cars.
Open trailers are typically 2 level ramps, with the cars staggered nose high, nose low so they can get an extra car or two on the trailer, and can accomodate vehicles of various heights.
Enclosed trailers are typically 2 level flats with a level elevator lift (tommy gate style) to bring the vehicles from the first or 2nd level to ground level.
I have shipped numerous cars and motorcycles cross country. And lately, the best way to ship is through U-ship:
Here's what I typically do....
I have 2 U-ship accounts...
On account A, I show a shipment of a VERY SIMILAR CAR to a zip code in my same city to a zip code in the same city I am moving to... I then leave this open for a week and let the bids come in. The bids you get for the first few days are FULL COST, WAY OVERPRICED, ONLY IDIOTS WOULD TAKE THIS OFFER.... Over the next few days I will get bids dropping and dropping, and typically on the last day you will get some very low bids...
By doing this, you will get an idea of what shippers are willing to actually do the job for...
Then Account B, I place the real shipment, with the real pick-up/delivery dates with the real car, and the real zip codes... I then place a "buy it now" price for $300 less than the lowest bidder from my earlier shipping bids. This will show that you are serious, and are really going to ship the car during those dates, and that you are budget minded. You will get E-mails from various shippers (first saying you are crazy and no one will take that price), then from truckers asking about specific dates trying to fill open spaces on their trucks. (they would rather take your low bid, than have an empty space on the truck as the fuel increases for an extra car are minimal). Towards the end of your bidding window, you will have a small bidding war.... and there's a good chance that someone will snag up your low ball buy it now price rather than risk losing the job to another bidder.
Now, here's some warnings...
You will get most of your bids from brokers... Review the broker's ratings, and reject their bids if their ratings are poor. Some brokers will snag the low ball bids, hoping they can find a truck to take the job, but will renig on the deal when they can't find a truck. I prefer dealing with truckers themselves, as it's their licence and insurance on the line.
ALL of them will say "oh, I took the job based on (whatever they say), but you clearly have (some excuse to charge you more... mostly it has to do with weight)" Tell them you provided all the information in the profile, and if they took the job without detailed research, that is their fault... Do not pay them any more than contracted.
I have gone down this road alot... please let me know if you have any questions. It's nerveracking, and stressfull, but typically it all comes out right.
Here's my latest project coming off a trailer from Phx AZ to Cocoa FL. I paid $900 for an un-running car shipped cross country
First bid was $2300, most bids were in the $1100-1200 range, and on the last day, a broker snagged it for $900. The trucker picked up 2 days early, and dropped 2 days early.
Last edited by hatesposers; Jul 14, 2012 at 08:32 PM.
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Oh, BTW, that car had been sitting for 10 years in the AZ sun with no protection... the car arrived with no damage...
If there is any damage done to the car in transport (dings, chips, so on) the carriers insurance will take care of it. All damage (if any) will be documented upon pick-up. If there is any damage upon arrival, it will be repaired through a claim.
I make sure to take detailed pictures of each pannel as well as pictures of each side of the car (+front back and top) when the car is being picked up, as well as when it's dropped off, so there's no question as to what damage occured when.
If there is any damage done to the car in transport (dings, chips, so on) the carriers insurance will take care of it. All damage (if any) will be documented upon pick-up. If there is any damage upon arrival, it will be repaired through a claim.
I make sure to take detailed pictures of each pannel as well as pictures of each side of the car (+front back and top) when the car is being picked up, as well as when it's dropped off, so there's no question as to what damage occured when.
#13
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^^^+1
Also, I ship cars often. At least twice a year. I have a client who has a 360 Modena that goes back and forward from Atl and Tennessee to Florida . We always send it open carrier. Just blue tape the front end to keep the bugs to a minimum (mirrors as well). Also brought a fx 35 from Texas to fl. No issues. Just tip the driver and hope for the best. Another option is to find a smaller transport company. These are the guys with the dually pickups and the gooseneck three car trailers. They will take all three of your cars at once for a decent rate.
Goodluck!
Also, I ship cars often. At least twice a year. I have a client who has a 360 Modena that goes back and forward from Atl and Tennessee to Florida . We always send it open carrier. Just blue tape the front end to keep the bugs to a minimum (mirrors as well). Also brought a fx 35 from Texas to fl. No issues. Just tip the driver and hope for the best. Another option is to find a smaller transport company. These are the guys with the dually pickups and the gooseneck three car trailers. They will take all three of your cars at once for a decent rate.
Goodluck!
#14
Um, not really....
When you ship a car, the cars don't all go on at one place. So it's not:
Pick up at A,
drop off at B, then C, then D, then E, then F.
It's more like,
Pick up A, B, C, Drop off D, pick up E, pick up F, Drop off B, pick up G, drop off E, Drop off D, pick up H, Drop off A, pick up I, drop off G, Drop off A, drop off H.
So cars are constantly going on and off the trailers at truck stops before they drop off a car at the car's final destination. The good driver's will do their best to minimize the cars coming off and on their trailer because time is money, and you would rather be burning miles down the highway than loading/unloading cars.
Open trailers are typically 2 level ramps, with the cars staggered nose high, nose low so they can get an extra car or two on the trailer, and can accomodate vehicles of various heights.
Enclosed trailers are typically 2 level flats with a level elevator lift (tommy gate style) to bring the vehicles from the first or 2nd level to ground level.
I have shipped numerous cars and motorcycles cross country. And lately, the best way to ship is through U-ship:
Here's what I typically do....
I have 2 U-ship accounts...
On account A, I show a shipment of a VERY SIMILAR CAR to a zip code in my same city to a zip code in the same city I am moving to... I then leave this open for a week and let the bids come in. The bids you get for the first few days are FULL COST, WAY OVERPRICED, ONLY IDIOTS WOULD TAKE THIS OFFER.... Over the next few days I will get bids dropping and dropping, and typically on the last day you will get some very low bids...
By doing this, you will get an idea of what shippers are willing to actually do the job for...
Then Account B, I place the real shipment, with the real pick-up/delivery dates with the real car, and the real zip codes... I then place a "buy it now" price for $300 less than the lowest bidder from my earlier shipping bids. This will show that you are serious, and are really going to ship the car during those dates, and that you are budget minded. You will get E-mails from various shippers (first saying you are crazy and no one will take that price), then from truckers asking about specific dates trying to fill open spaces on their trucks. (they would rather take your low bid, than have an empty space on the truck as the fuel increases for an extra car are minimal). Towards the end of your bidding window, you will have a small bidding war.... and there's a good chance that someone will snag up your low ball buy it now price rather than risk losing the job to another bidder.
Now, here's some warnings...
You will get most of your bids from brokers... Review the broker's ratings, and reject their bids if their ratings are poor. Some brokers will snag the low ball bids, hoping they can find a truck to take the job, but will renig on the deal when they can't find a truck. I prefer dealing with truckers themselves, as it's their licence and insurance on the line.
ALL of them will say "oh, I took the job based on (whatever they say), but you clearly have (some excuse to charge you more... mostly it has to do with weight)" Tell them you provided all the information in the profile, and if they took the job without detailed research, that is their fault... Do not pay them any more than contracted.
I have gone down this road alot... please let me know if you have any questions. It's nerveracking, and stressfull, but typically it all comes out right.
Here's my latest project coming off a trailer from Phx AZ to Cocoa FL. I paid $900 for an un-running car shipped cross country
First bid was $2300, most bids were in the $1100-1200 range, and on the last day, a broker snagged it for $900. The trucker picked up 2 days early, and dropped 2 days early.
When you ship a car, the cars don't all go on at one place. So it's not:
Pick up at A,
drop off at B, then C, then D, then E, then F.
It's more like,
Pick up A, B, C, Drop off D, pick up E, pick up F, Drop off B, pick up G, drop off E, Drop off D, pick up H, Drop off A, pick up I, drop off G, Drop off A, drop off H.
So cars are constantly going on and off the trailers at truck stops before they drop off a car at the car's final destination. The good driver's will do their best to minimize the cars coming off and on their trailer because time is money, and you would rather be burning miles down the highway than loading/unloading cars.
Open trailers are typically 2 level ramps, with the cars staggered nose high, nose low so they can get an extra car or two on the trailer, and can accomodate vehicles of various heights.
Enclosed trailers are typically 2 level flats with a level elevator lift (tommy gate style) to bring the vehicles from the first or 2nd level to ground level.
I have shipped numerous cars and motorcycles cross country. And lately, the best way to ship is through U-ship:
Here's what I typically do....
I have 2 U-ship accounts...
On account A, I show a shipment of a VERY SIMILAR CAR to a zip code in my same city to a zip code in the same city I am moving to... I then leave this open for a week and let the bids come in. The bids you get for the first few days are FULL COST, WAY OVERPRICED, ONLY IDIOTS WOULD TAKE THIS OFFER.... Over the next few days I will get bids dropping and dropping, and typically on the last day you will get some very low bids...
By doing this, you will get an idea of what shippers are willing to actually do the job for...
Then Account B, I place the real shipment, with the real pick-up/delivery dates with the real car, and the real zip codes... I then place a "buy it now" price for $300 less than the lowest bidder from my earlier shipping bids. This will show that you are serious, and are really going to ship the car during those dates, and that you are budget minded. You will get E-mails from various shippers (first saying you are crazy and no one will take that price), then from truckers asking about specific dates trying to fill open spaces on their trucks. (they would rather take your low bid, than have an empty space on the truck as the fuel increases for an extra car are minimal). Towards the end of your bidding window, you will have a small bidding war.... and there's a good chance that someone will snag up your low ball buy it now price rather than risk losing the job to another bidder.
Now, here's some warnings...
You will get most of your bids from brokers... Review the broker's ratings, and reject their bids if their ratings are poor. Some brokers will snag the low ball bids, hoping they can find a truck to take the job, but will renig on the deal when they can't find a truck. I prefer dealing with truckers themselves, as it's their licence and insurance on the line.
ALL of them will say "oh, I took the job based on (whatever they say), but you clearly have (some excuse to charge you more... mostly it has to do with weight)" Tell them you provided all the information in the profile, and if they took the job without detailed research, that is their fault... Do not pay them any more than contracted.
I have gone down this road alot... please let me know if you have any questions. It's nerveracking, and stressfull, but typically it all comes out right.
Here's my latest project coming off a trailer from Phx AZ to Cocoa FL. I paid $900 for an un-running car shipped cross country
First bid was $2300, most bids were in the $1100-1200 range, and on the last day, a broker snagged it for $900. The trucker picked up 2 days early, and dropped 2 days early.