questions: GSC S2 cams on stock valve springs
#16
well taken from GSC power division website, they said "or can be run at the stock revlimit and factory boost on the stock spring"
so given that, i went ahead and got the beehive/ti retainers because im already paying to get cams installed, and the valve springs are right there, shops dont charge but a lil more to do the valve springs too. so, again what most people said and is true, do it right the first time.
ur getting cams, i doubt ur gonna stay with stock boost and rev limit... i thought i was but that was bull$hit, i had the tuner up the boost and stretch the redline. lol
i would suggest u get it and it'll be safe to up the boost down the road. rather than be worried about valve float.
so given that, i went ahead and got the beehive/ti retainers because im already paying to get cams installed, and the valve springs are right there, shops dont charge but a lil more to do the valve springs too. so, again what most people said and is true, do it right the first time.
ur getting cams, i doubt ur gonna stay with stock boost and rev limit... i thought i was but that was bull$hit, i had the tuner up the boost and stretch the redline. lol
i would suggest u get it and it'll be safe to up the boost down the road. rather than be worried about valve float.
BTW, does anyone have experience with Manley Valve Springs and Retainers?
which one (Single or Dual spring) will be appropriate for GSC S2's ?
#22
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valve float is kind of like pregnency, its not something one supsects and is easily detectable on the dyno as a steep power drop at the top end. if the valves do not float at the boost/rpm level that one is running the engine at, then getting stiffer springs will only result in loss of power due to the engine being more difficult to spin.
additionally boost tapers off at the top end for most with stock turbo so that also helps avoid the float.
the better question to ask is: do setup running less than 25psi and not going past redline encountering valve float with the stock springs on these cams or are we recommending the added springs because they are a nice to have feature and may be needed down the line with a bigger turbo, etc?
additionally boost tapers off at the top end for most with stock turbo so that also helps avoid the float.
the better question to ask is: do setup running less than 25psi and not going past redline encountering valve float with the stock springs on these cams or are we recommending the added springs because they are a nice to have feature and may be needed down the line with a bigger turbo, etc?
#23
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I don't think this thread should even still be going. The guy who makes the damn cams says you need them, so just get them and be done with it.
If I'm not mistaken, a cam with 11.2mm of lift still lifts the valve 11.2mm each time the cam goes through one full "duration", so the spring is still affected by the larger measurement of lift regardless of whether your at redline or not. Correct or incorrect?
If I'm not mistaken, a cam with 11.2mm of lift still lifts the valve 11.2mm each time the cam goes through one full "duration", so the spring is still affected by the larger measurement of lift regardless of whether your at redline or not. Correct or incorrect?
#24
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this is what happens to the intake valve specifically.
the spring has to apply enough pressure to shut the valve back after the cam presses it down. it has to do this fast enough before ignition occures and with enough force to push againt the incoming air from the turbo. if its not strong enough to do either, the valve will will not be closed during ignition and some of the exhaust air will try to go back into the intake. the higher the rpm and higher the boost pressure, the more spring pressure necessary to do this. its pretty simple really.
of course the cam vendor will suggest springs for optimal result which could be for someone running higher than typical rpm and boost but it may not be necessary for everyone, just saying. wont know till its tested.
the spring has to apply enough pressure to shut the valve back after the cam presses it down. it has to do this fast enough before ignition occures and with enough force to push againt the incoming air from the turbo. if its not strong enough to do either, the valve will will not be closed during ignition and some of the exhaust air will try to go back into the intake. the higher the rpm and higher the boost pressure, the more spring pressure necessary to do this. its pretty simple really.
of course the cam vendor will suggest springs for optimal result which could be for someone running higher than typical rpm and boost but it may not be necessary for everyone, just saying. wont know till its tested.
#25
Newbie
If your looking at going bigger in the future, easier to go ahead and do the springs/retainers while your doing the cam swap. Cheaper to go ahead and do it now if your paying a shop to do the work.
#26
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I understand every car will behave differently, but look at what Badev0 has done. He's been shifting at 8-8500 for 2+ years on Kelford 272's with stock valvetrain.... Unless you have weak springs somehow, I don't see float on your setup at that rpm level.
Hell, DSM guys use stock Evo springs and retainers and wrap motors to 9k
#27
I read all previous posts in this threads, and I bought GSC beehive valve springs/titanium retainers with GSC S2's b/c I wanna do it right at the first so that i dont have to worry about valve floating later if I go with bigger turbo
Thanks all guys for answering my questions!!!
Thanks all guys for answering my questions!!!
#28
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I read all previous posts in this threads, and I bought GSC beehive valve springs/titanium retainers with GSC S2's b/c I wanna do it right at the first so that i dont have to worry about valve floating later if I go with bigger turbo
Thanks all guys for answering my questions!!!
Thanks all guys for answering my questions!!!
#29
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Listen,half these people on the forms will tell you to do bee hives,etc etc meanwhile,they never had these cams .They go by what they here and repeat themselves like parrots.The bottom line is,you need springs for less valve noise(false knock)and not to float a valve (sticking valves from weak springs).So yes,by a set of kigglys,manley or any other good name brand for added safety and do the the same time with the cams.Good luck.
#30
well , im currently running HKS 272 's with Brian crower's valve spring and retainers....im thinking to put in GSC 2's and my rev limiter is upto 8500 rpm...what should i do? do i need to upgrade to better springs or are they good enough?
Saad
Saad