CAR DOESNT START... sometimes...
#16
Hahaha I chased this stupid, annoying problem since I had my car. I replaced the tumbler, the starter, all the stuff in the key area, with no luck.
I took my entire car apart, built the car, and I no longer have this issue.
She was a mystery oh yes she was......parlay rid her not tell me why she changed.
I took my entire car apart, built the car, and I no longer have this issue.
She was a mystery oh yes she was......parlay rid her not tell me why she changed.
#17
my 240 did this. it wasn't the starter or the switch under the clutch. never found out the issue cause i sold the car. but try turning your key slow. another vehicle had this issue and that move solved it.
#18
good luck on your hunts, guys! I dont drive my 8 much anymore, and when I do, it fires right up. Seems like she is begging me to drive her hahaha
#19
literally, just fixed this problem. Trust me this will continue to progress until it won't start. For me it was the plastic part at the end of the ignition cylinder. Pull apart your steering column ( 3 screws ) and take out the piece and see if its cracked / worn down.
posted from evolutionm.net app for android
posted from evolutionm.net app for android
this.
#20
I've been fighting this for months. Here's what I tried:
replace starter (twice) - no change
replace the ignition cylinder - no change
replaced the grounds - no change
added extra grounds - no change
replaced the wiring from the ignition to the battery to the starter - no change
removed my turbo timer - no change
Had my battery tested twice - battery tested fine
Finally just replaced the battery with a mini battery and so far no issues... (unless I let the battery get drained down.
Moral of the story, even though the battery tested fine, apparently it wasn't. So even though the voltage was good on the battery, it didn't have enough amps to turn the starter and the starter would just click when I turned the key. turning the key like 20+ times usually did the trick but who wants to do that??
Good luck, this is a Pain in the a$$
replace starter (twice) - no change
replace the ignition cylinder - no change
replaced the grounds - no change
added extra grounds - no change
replaced the wiring from the ignition to the battery to the starter - no change
removed my turbo timer - no change
Had my battery tested twice - battery tested fine
Finally just replaced the battery with a mini battery and so far no issues... (unless I let the battery get drained down.
Moral of the story, even though the battery tested fine, apparently it wasn't. So even though the voltage was good on the battery, it didn't have enough amps to turn the starter and the starter would just click when I turned the key. turning the key like 20+ times usually did the trick but who wants to do that??
Good luck, this is a Pain in the a$$
#22
literally, just fixed this problem. trust me this will continue to progress until it won't start. for me it was the plastic part at the end of the ignition cylinder. pull apart your steering column ( 3 screws ) and take out the piece and see if its cracked / worn down.
Posted from Evolutionm.net App for Android
Posted from Evolutionm.net App for Android
#23
#24
I'm chasing the same problem as per the OP. I can find no wiring fault, no hint of corrosion, no loose connections anywhere. I've changed starter relay, ignition switch, starter solenoid, and tested a new starter, to no effect. When I turn the key, I can hear what sounds like a click from the solenoid, but nothing more. Sometimes it starts right up, sometimes it takes 10-20 turns of the key. I've checked all grounds, including those near the fuse box.
To get the starter working, power must get through the ignition switch to the starter relay, then to the solenoid. The clutch switch must be engaged (or disconnected), to allow power to energize the starter solenoid, which in turn triggers power straight from the battery to the starter:
12V->ignition->relay->solenoid
If one can verify (usually requires two people) that the solenoid's positive terminal is being energized, that virtually eliminates anything that precedes it. Assuming all connections are solid, that narrows things down to the solenoid itself, the starter, or the battery. If you're working by yourself, pull the starter relay, and put a test light to terminal 2 or 3 while you engage the start position. If you see it light up every time, you know it's not an issue within the ignition switch, and a new starter relay ($12) ensures it isn't the issue.
I've verified all is well through that relay (which I've replaced), and I can hear the starter solenoid engage. When things seem stuck, I can put the car in 5th, push it forward, and I hear a short whine from the engine compartment. Sometimes it will start immediately afterward. I'm not certain, but my hunch is that the starter isn't getting enough current to turn over the engine, and the starter gear is getting hung up in the ring gear.
My engine definitely requires more torque to turn it over than does a factory engine, which means more current is required. The Optima battery I was using previously is toast (no more of those please), and I'm presently on a spare factory battery, which tests at 12.75 V, but is far from new. I have a trunk mounted battery, so I'll get the highest rated cranking amperage I can fit in that space. If that doesn't cure it completely, I may simply run larger gauge power and ground leads to the starter.
Just my $0.02.
To get the starter working, power must get through the ignition switch to the starter relay, then to the solenoid. The clutch switch must be engaged (or disconnected), to allow power to energize the starter solenoid, which in turn triggers power straight from the battery to the starter:
12V->ignition->relay->solenoid
If one can verify (usually requires two people) that the solenoid's positive terminal is being energized, that virtually eliminates anything that precedes it. Assuming all connections are solid, that narrows things down to the solenoid itself, the starter, or the battery. If you're working by yourself, pull the starter relay, and put a test light to terminal 2 or 3 while you engage the start position. If you see it light up every time, you know it's not an issue within the ignition switch, and a new starter relay ($12) ensures it isn't the issue.
I've verified all is well through that relay (which I've replaced), and I can hear the starter solenoid engage. When things seem stuck, I can put the car in 5th, push it forward, and I hear a short whine from the engine compartment. Sometimes it will start immediately afterward. I'm not certain, but my hunch is that the starter isn't getting enough current to turn over the engine, and the starter gear is getting hung up in the ring gear.
My engine definitely requires more torque to turn it over than does a factory engine, which means more current is required. The Optima battery I was using previously is toast (no more of those please), and I'm presently on a spare factory battery, which tests at 12.75 V, but is far from new. I have a trunk mounted battery, so I'll get the highest rated cranking amperage I can fit in that space. If that doesn't cure it completely, I may simply run larger gauge power and ground leads to the starter.
Just my $0.02.
Last edited by Ted B; Aug 24, 2012 at 05:27 PM.
#25
I suggest all of you with intermittent start problems read this:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post10380129
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post10380129
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