Going to change out fluids (13.6k miles). Some Questions.
Aug 23, 2012, 02:14 PM
#16
Thinking of:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68051.html
and
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5225_200305225
Aug 23, 2012, 02:59 PM
#20
haha no, I have the (4) 6 tons holding the car up because they have a large footprint and can get higher - I had bought them back when I had my truck. The smaller ones are holding up the exhaust, driveshaft and motor. I could have used a wood block or something but I just grabbed those because they were easy
(I had removed the transmission and transfer case in this picture)
Aug 23, 2012, 07:17 PM
#21
haha no, I have the (4) 6 tons holding the car up because they have a large footprint and can get higher - I had bought them back when I had my truck. The smaller ones are holding up the exhaust, driveshaft and motor. I could have used a wood block or something but I just grabbed those because they were easy
(I had removed the transmission and transfer case in this picture)
(I had removed the transmission and transfer case in this picture)
So I started looking over the Service Repair Manual, and I'm so overwhelmed.... I'm an engineer, but have zero idea what 75% of the pictures are referring to. It probably doesn't help that I've never been under my car.
I guess I'll attempt my engine oil first, and then go from there.
I just saw a thread where someone said they were quoted $300 by the dealershop to change out the tranny oil. There is no way I would pay that much...
Aug 23, 2012, 08:16 PM
#22
I believe there is a really good thread on here in the how-to section.
The rear diff is easy, get under the car and look. The drain plug is on the bottom and the fill plug is about 2" above that on the back of the diff cover. No pictures of that
here is the transfer case drain plug on the bottom
fill plug is on the left of the stubby shaft
not the best pictures of the transmission, but here they are
drain plug in this picture is on the right side of that seam in the tranny. Look at the top gold bolt on the seam and just under that is a large dark bolt. That's the drain bolt.
in this picture, look at the transfer case where the driveshaft goes in, and basically what that tail stock is pointing at on the transmission is the fill plug (just under and to the right of the slave cylinder)
that has to be the worst explanation and pictures ever, but it's really simple... just get under there and look at it. You can't miss them...
The rear diff is easy, get under the car and look. The drain plug is on the bottom and the fill plug is about 2" above that on the back of the diff cover. No pictures of that
here is the transfer case drain plug on the bottom
fill plug is on the left of the stubby shaft
not the best pictures of the transmission, but here they are
drain plug in this picture is on the right side of that seam in the tranny. Look at the top gold bolt on the seam and just under that is a large dark bolt. That's the drain bolt.
in this picture, look at the transfer case where the driveshaft goes in, and basically what that tail stock is pointing at on the transmission is the fill plug (just under and to the right of the slave cylinder)
that has to be the worst explanation and pictures ever, but it's really simple... just get under there and look at it. You can't miss them...
Aug 23, 2012, 08:23 PM
#23
I would go 10w30 like the handbook says, unless you plan on driving your car when it reaches -20 celsius and cold and snowing outside (which I don't think you will). Also while you are at it, I would have the rear dif fluids changed (might as well since you bought the fluids) and hold off on the ACD it takes a while before you should change that.
Go to a shop that knows Evos inside and out. Don't take the risk, especially if you baby your car like it shows. You risk some serious damage taking it to a mechanic that doesn't know these cars as many other guys have experienced in the past.
If you really want to make sure as well all the fluids and weights are listed at the back of the handbook for easy reference to OEM specs.
Good luck.
Go to a shop that knows Evos inside and out. Don't take the risk, especially if you baby your car like it shows. You risk some serious damage taking it to a mechanic that doesn't know these cars as many other guys have experienced in the past.
If you really want to make sure as well all the fluids and weights are listed at the back of the handbook for easy reference to OEM specs.
Good luck.
Aug 23, 2012, 08:36 PM
#25
I would go 10w30 like the handbook says, unless you plan on driving your car when it reaches -20 celsius and cold and snowing outside (which I don't think you will). Also while you are at it, I would have the rear dif fluids changed (might as well since you bought the fluids) and hold off on the ACD it takes a while before you should change that.
Go to a shop that knows Evos inside and out. Don't take the risk, especially if you baby your car like it shows. You risk some serious damage taking it to a mechanic that doesn't know these cars as many other guys have experienced in the past.
If you really want to make sure as well all the fluids and weights are listed at the back of the handbook for easy reference to OEM specs.
Good luck.
Go to a shop that knows Evos inside and out. Don't take the risk, especially if you baby your car like it shows. You risk some serious damage taking it to a mechanic that doesn't know these cars as many other guys have experienced in the past.
If you really want to make sure as well all the fluids and weights are listed at the back of the handbook for easy reference to OEM specs.
Good luck.
The car will go in the garage as soon as salt hits the roads so I'm going to stick with 10w30.
I did not buy the fluids yet, I was just trying to keep track of the prices. Do you still think I should change rear diff fluids?
Are you saying I shouldn't attempt to change my own fluids? BTW I would never take my car to this mechanic for something specialized. I don't consider these fluid changes specialized, maybe I should?
I drove the car every few months for about 30 minutes each time. I did not change the oil... Probably a big no-no? I changed the oil immediately when I started truely driving the car though.
Aug 23, 2012, 09:19 PM
#26
Thanks those pictures helped increase my confidence a lot!
The car will go in the garage as soon as salt hits the roads so I'm going to stick with 10w30.
I did not buy the fluids yet, I was just trying to keep track of the prices. Do you still think I should change rear diff fluids?
Are you saying I shouldn't attempt to change my own fluids? BTW I would never take my car to this mechanic for something specialized. I don't consider these fluid changes specialized, maybe I should?
I drove the car every few months for about 30 minutes each time. I did not change the oil... Probably a big no-no? I changed the oil immediately when I started truely driving the car though.
The car will go in the garage as soon as salt hits the roads so I'm going to stick with 10w30.
I did not buy the fluids yet, I was just trying to keep track of the prices. Do you still think I should change rear diff fluids?
Are you saying I shouldn't attempt to change my own fluids? BTW I would never take my car to this mechanic for something specialized. I don't consider these fluid changes specialized, maybe I should?
I drove the car every few months for about 30 minutes each time. I did not change the oil... Probably a big no-no? I changed the oil immediately when I started truely driving the car though.
In terms of oil changes with your car sitting, I would do it at least every 4-6 months even if you don't drive it more than 3000 miles during that time. It may be a bit overkill, but it doesn't hurt to add fresh oil every few months as a precaution.
Any reason why you're keeping the miles so low?
Aug 23, 2012, 09:35 PM
#27
Personally I would take it to Ivy or a shop that knows Evos well to have the work done right and give yourself that piece of mind. These cars are kind of specialized so I definitely would not take it to a Jiffy Lube or mechanic that doesn't know the car to have the tranny, transfercase and rear diff fluids changed. It's not that complicated of a job, but if the smallest thing isn't done right it could result in big problems (you may need seals replaced as well). Also yes I would do the rear diff fluid change at the same time while you are at it since it uses the fluids you will buy.
In terms of oil changes with your car sitting, I would do it at least every 4-6 months even if you don't drive it more than 3000 miles during that time. It may be a bit overkill, but it doesn't hurt to add fresh oil every few months as a precaution.
Any reason why you're keeping the miles so low?
In terms of oil changes with your car sitting, I would do it at least every 4-6 months even if you don't drive it more than 3000 miles during that time. It may be a bit overkill, but it doesn't hurt to add fresh oil every few months as a precaution.
Any reason why you're keeping the miles so low?
I really would like to get some hands on experience with my car though... I really don't want to end up having a shop install my exhaust, springs, etc. A tune is obviously acceptable and required to be done by a shop like Ivey.
Keeping the miles so low really wasn't intended. I bought the car while I was in college, and couldn't afford the insurance lol...
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