Evo 8 wont hold boost past 6k
#16
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Richardson, Tx
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im still on stock actuator. Actually its a stock replacement from another 8 turbo. THere is not a gradual decrease in Boost pressure. Holds a strong 19-20 psi all the way up to 6k rpm and drops quickly. Like it was shutoff. I really need to find a gd BC and swap it in.
Last edited by re-rx7; Sep 11, 2012 at 09:42 PM.
#17
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Whether your car "runs great" is completely relative and subjective. Did you log boost? If so, please post the boost logs.
When you go WOT, at what RPM do you floor it? Floor it at 2500 in 3rd, or 4th and tell me exactly at what engine RPM the boost gauge hits 20 PSI.
When you go WOT, at what RPM do you floor it? Floor it at 2500 in 3rd, or 4th and tell me exactly at what engine RPM the boost gauge hits 20 PSI.
Last edited by sparky; Sep 12, 2012 at 04:50 AM.
#18
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Incidentally, has your car been tuned for your mods and to run at 20+PSI ? You state that a boost leak test was run. Did you do that test yourself? Do you know what pressure level the test was run up to? It tested leak-free up to x PSI???
#19
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
So, I take it that you installed the used actuator yourself. Am I correct in so assuming? Why did you change actuators in the first place? If you did the WGA install, then do you recall if you pretensioned the spring, or if you just installed the actuator rod onto the flapper valve's pivot arm fully extended with no additional tension???
#20
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Richardson, Tx
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The stock one was bent from previors owner and frozen. Evolution dynamics here in dallas installed it. I tested it myself up to 23 psi. It held for 15+ sec. I will try the 2500 rpm punch today. Pre tension seems gd as the arm is firmly in place on flapper rod. NO play.
Last edited by re-rx7; Sep 12, 2012 at 05:40 AM.
#21
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I am a little confused when you say that you tested the "new" actuator up to 23#. Did you test it with compressed air and a gauge up on the bench, or did you road test the actuator after installing it on the car?
Last edited by sparky; Sep 12, 2012 at 01:25 PM.
#22
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Richardson, Tx
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The old actuator exhibited no boost at all. The arm was seized and the cotter pin had broken off into flapper rod. To solve we replace the hotside with an evo 8 hotside. Same thing. Compressed air and my boost gauge on dash. Soap and water. I have to use a portable tank since i dont have a compressor. Im still trying to locate a knwn wrkin mbc.
#23
The old actuator exhibited no boost at all. The arm was seized and the cotter pin had broken off into flapper rod. To solve we replace the hotside with an evo 8 hotside. Same thing. Compressed air and my boost gauge on dash. Soap and water. I have to use a portable tank since i dont have a compressor. Im still trying to locate a knwn wrkin mbc.
#24
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
It may be holding to 23# of intake pressure during a BLT but it is actually opening much earlier(10-12#). BLT's are a good static indicator of pressure on the intake side, however they are not an accurate indicator of seat cracking and lifting of the WG flapper valve because the BLT does not take into account the dynamic force of the exhaust pressure within the turbine housing at the flapper valve seat which is lifting the valve off its seat at a ratio of at least 2:1.
EDIT: furthermore, all variables need to be taken into consideration. For your test to even be a valid indicator of the pressure "seen" by the actuator's internal diaphragm, one has to make sure that the MBC is out of the loop. Otherwise it interferes by limiting pressure entering the WGA port.
Last edited by sparky; Sep 13, 2012 at 09:32 AM.
#25
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,905
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
What you really want as a practical matter is to eliminate the boost taper so that you can essentially maintain your peak boost level at or near 20#, right?
To get to the bottom of the problem I would first off remove the MBC for the time being. Install a new piece of 4mm vacuum hose directly from the compressor j-pipe nipple to the port on the WGA cannister. Do a WOT run to establish at what spring pressure the actuator is currrntly set. Then we'll take it from there and start to adjust preload incrementally.
To get to the bottom of the problem I would first off remove the MBC for the time being. Install a new piece of 4mm vacuum hose directly from the compressor j-pipe nipple to the port on the WGA cannister. Do a WOT run to establish at what spring pressure the actuator is currrntly set. Then we'll take it from there and start to adjust preload incrementally.
#28
Newbie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you not done a boost leak test? I didn't see anywhere in your posts where you had? You should start there before anything else.
FWIW.... I literally had the exact same issue. I'd hold full boost until 5.5-6k and it would drop to maybe 7-10psi til redline. The car would fall on its face and felt like a dog. My issue was the throttle body shaft seals. Replaced them with Mil.spec tbss and my problems were solved... Good luck.
FWIW.... I literally had the exact same issue. I'd hold full boost until 5.5-6k and it would drop to maybe 7-10psi til redline. The car would fall on its face and felt like a dog. My issue was the throttle body shaft seals. Replaced them with Mil.spec tbss and my problems were solved... Good luck.