Evo 8 wont hold boost past 6k
#34
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I had a similar issue... funny enough the vacuum line split going to my boost gauge. I actually missed it on a boost leak test because it was so far away from the engine.....Obviously it wasn't tapering as much as I thought it was....
#36
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Disconnect the MBC. Run a length of 4mm vacuum hose from the WGA nipple to the compressor's j-pipe nipple. Secure hose ends with zip-ties.
Remove the manifold heat shield(s). Tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator core's inner surface. Loosen the backup nut behind the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuator rod. Remove the cotter pin that secures the turnbuckle to the flapper valve's pivot arm. Pry the turnbuckle away from its home on the flapper valve's pivot arm peg. It should now be free.
Spin the turnbuckle inward, clockwise, three complete 360* rotations. You are effectively shortening the overall length of the actuator rod. The rod will now require more force to pull it back up onto its home on the flapper valve pivot arm. Reinstall the cotter pin.
Go for a WOT run in 3rd or 4th gear. Report back the boost reading indicated on your boost gauge.
Remove the manifold heat shield(s). Tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator core's inner surface. Loosen the backup nut behind the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuator rod. Remove the cotter pin that secures the turnbuckle to the flapper valve's pivot arm. Pry the turnbuckle away from its home on the flapper valve's pivot arm peg. It should now be free.
Spin the turnbuckle inward, clockwise, three complete 360* rotations. You are effectively shortening the overall length of the actuator rod. The rod will now require more force to pull it back up onto its home on the flapper valve pivot arm. Reinstall the cotter pin.
Go for a WOT run in 3rd or 4th gear. Report back the boost reading indicated on your boost gauge.
#37
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I don't do vids...sorry However, it is a smashing idea! So, i'll get Sparky to working on a visual step-by-step. It may be a writeup with pics followed later on by the vid��
EDIT: I have never seen it but, on the Forced Performance site there is a tutorial on adjusting WGA preload. I am not sure as to whether or not it is in video format though. You may want to check that out.
EDIT: I have never seen it but, on the Forced Performance site there is a tutorial on adjusting WGA preload. I am not sure as to whether or not it is in video format though. You may want to check that out.
Last edited by sparky; Sep 17, 2012 at 07:13 PM.
#38
I don't do vids...sorry However, it is a smashing idea! So, i'll get Sparky to working on a visual step-by-step. It may be a writeup with pics followed later on by the vid��
EDIT: I have never seen it but, on the Forced Performance site there is a tutorial on adjusting WGA preload. I am not sure as to whether or not it is in video format though. You may want to check that out.
EDIT: I have never seen it but, on the Forced Performance site there is a tutorial on adjusting WGA preload. I am not sure as to whether or not it is in video format though. You may want to check that out.
#39
I don't do vids...sorry However, it is a smashing idea! So, i'll get Sparky to working on a visual step-by-step. It may be a writeup with pics followed later on by the vid��
EDIT: I have never seen it but, on the Forced Performance site there is a tutorial on adjusting WGA preload. I am not sure as to whether or not it is in video format though. You may want to check that out.
EDIT: I have never seen it but, on the Forced Performance site there is a tutorial on adjusting WGA preload. I am not sure as to whether or not it is in video format though. You may want to check that out.
#40
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Mine seems to have resolved itself. I do Have a bl at the tb. Gotta fix that but it did resolve itself after i mounted my bc somewhere else. Maye it was a kinked hose?
Last edited by re-rx7; Sep 24, 2012 at 06:45 AM.
#41
mine did that 5 months back when it tapered from 25-23 then after a week of it resting it peaked and held25-24 to redline
#43
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