Tmosser

iTrader: (5)

In my 06 evo its a pain in the butt to get into any gear when cold. I am using a redline "cocktail" for fluid. and reverse is hard to get into/grinds 80% of the time!!

I have adjusted the clutch with the car on 4 jack stands and made sure it was correct and also made sure that the slave could be pressed with my thumb like jack's transmission video explained.

Does the transmission need a rebuild, is this common, or what have others done to fix this. The car is my dd so it sucks having it be a pain to get into R from a stop and any gear when its cold, I tend to let the car warm up before going anywhere but it doesnt help the reverse issue, If I can find a dd im thinking about sending it to jacks for a rebuild this winter. Clutch is currently a exedy twin, maybe its just the floater needs to be polished?

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...clutch-warning

prowakeskater

iTrader: (14)

do you shift into 3rd or 4th before R?

my X grinds if I shift directly into R at any point, but I learned quickly that it does not if I shift into 3rd and 4th right before I throw it into R.

EvoTeyn

I have the same problem, except every gear grinds a little, and I'm using stock fluid that just got changed two months ago. Hell I can't even get into reverse when cold without doing a few 3rd to 4th gear like mentioned above.

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

evo transmission is just ****ty and needs to be accepted

GTijoejoe

iTrader: (25)

Its accepted

I feel alot of it has to do with the alignment of the actual shifter mechanism though.

R. Burgundy

iTrader: (6)

Mine is the same way when it's cold. It's just how it is. Nothing's wrong with it just gotta accept it. The reason reverse grinds for you 80% of the time is because reverse does not have a synchro. When you're stopped and need to reverse, throw it into 3rd then into reverse and it will stop it from spinning and it won't grind.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Letting it warm up idling won't do anything, as the transmission isn't rotating, so there's no heat warming up the oil. Double clutching helps me get into gear a little bit easier for the first few shifts when the tranny is still cold. I'm also on the cocktail BTW.

njboy

iTrader: (1)

Little trick for getting into reverse;
Release parking brake first.
Try to go into reverse.
If hard to do let clutch out just a little bit and it will click right in.

As for crunch in forward gears take out the restrictor pill. This helps.
Get trans warmed up by letting it idle in neutral with clutch out.
Shift really slow and feel the resistance when the trans is cold.
These are not Honda gearboxes that shift fast and effortless. Unfortunately.

Corbin09

iTrader: (3)

Mine does this.. I just shift from 3rd into reverse works like butter every time. ha or I back into spots so I dont have to deal with reverse when the trans fluid is cold.

Tmosser

iTrader: (5)

What is the restrictor pill?
where is it located?

Im just worried because coming from a srt 4 where if it grinds it will only get worst and end up not going into gear at all.

evo8426

iTrader: (27)

Change that crap back to OEM. I had the cocktail junk in my transmission and hated it. Put it back to OEM and it drives much smoother changing gears.

DeFog

Sounds like the clutch is having difficulties engaging, I'm guessing you can pop out of gear perfectly fine, just not shift into them?
What clutch do you have and how many miles?

Tmosser

iTrader: (5)

I have a exedy twin disc centrametallic with about 50k on it.

And yeah its just hard to get into gear from a stop when driving it shifts nice and smooth.

FJF

iTrader: (18)

This was suggested to the OP from the onset of his ownership, but apparently his friend knows better:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post10312399

Yes, the Evo transmission sucks, when you buy a beat to sh/t used one and fruck it up even further. Brilliant.

bigben

iTrader: (4)

This isn't 100% correct. With the transmission in neutral and the car idling, the input shaft is still spinning because it is directly connected to the clutch plate, which is spinning because it's clamped to the flywheel via the pressure plate. The output shaft isn't spinning because some of the gears on the input shaft are free-spinning until an actual "gear" is engaged. The gears/synchros are getting oil when idling because the input shaft is spinning and slinging fluid around. The AMSOIL MTG gives you notchy shifts when its cold, but smooths out when it warms up. I've also used the redline cocktail, but I wasn't impressed. I went back to the oem tranny fluid. If you feel that I am wrong in what I said, get in touch with JacksTransmissions.