Gauges; Mech vs Elec?
#2
Evolving Member
Kinda a tough question, it's all in the application. If you want accuracy mechanic is the way to go..... unless there is a digital gauge that runs out multiple decimal places.
Having said that, the original owner of my evo had a carbon ultra light boost gauge and the aem A/F gauge.
I've since replaced the boost gauge to the digital aem gauge. I like the look better, and i dont have to worry about the. Mechnaical gauges back light at night so i could see how much boost i was pushing at night, so it comes down to what you like..
Having said that, the original owner of my evo had a carbon ultra light boost gauge and the aem A/F gauge.
I've since replaced the boost gauge to the digital aem gauge. I like the look better, and i dont have to worry about the. Mechnaical gauges back light at night so i could see how much boost i was pushing at night, so it comes down to what you like..
#5
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Electrical gauges tend to read more accurately and read more quickly. You also get fancy features like warning lights, beeping, memory functions etc. I think they are easier to install because you just wire the sending unit in the engine bay, and the wires go to the gauge. Versus mechanical gauges, you have to run a vacuum tube, hose, or whatever type of gauge you are installing. That said, I have an Autometer mech boost gauge because it works, I like the look of it, and it was cheap. I have an electronic AEM wideband and it cost alot more, but it works great. Not a great comparison of gauges, but the only 2 I have in my car. As far as ease of install, depends how mechanically inclined you are. Boost gauge took me maybe 20-25 min to install, might take you 3-4 hrs or maybe 15 min. Not hard to do, but you need to know what you are doing at least. There are plenty of how to install threads on here, GL.
Trending Topics
#8
Newbie
iTrader: (1)
I always find mechanical are more accurate with quicker readings.
Electric seems to be like a warning light that something has already gone wrong.
Depends what your application is for though (strictly functional race or more cosmetic street). Boost should definitely be mechanical though because you really want to know if you get a spike or hesitation or whatever with your boost.
Electric seems to be like a warning light that something has already gone wrong.
Depends what your application is for though (strictly functional race or more cosmetic street). Boost should definitely be mechanical though because you really want to know if you get a spike or hesitation or whatever with your boost.
#9
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I plan on doing 3 gauges; Boost, AFR, and I haven't really settled on my third. What is everyone usually doing for their 3rd gauge? I suppose I could do oil press but I do kinda want a digital water temp gauge.
#12
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I have noticed that many people like to use the oil pressure. But, if you suddenly lose oil pressure on your gauge chances are you've already blown a major component in your motor. My thoughts with the water gauge is that if it starts to creep up, I could stop the vehicle before it overheats. I do autoX the vehicle, that's the hardest I run it.
#14
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Now I would want the brightness of my gauges to be the same brightness of the instrument cluster. But I'm seeing that the gauges are wired into the dimmer switch...? Is there a way I can dim the gauges separately from the instrument cluster?
#15
Evolving Member
Not really man. The stock gauge goes to the middle or so when the thermostat opens. The water temp can vary from 80 deg C to 105 deg C and the stock gauge DOES NOT MOVE. That's a wide range.