fjm9898

iTrader: (2)

So i tried to buy an IAC for my car and every time i get one its different then the one i have in the car currently.

All are OEM mitsu IACs pulled from junk Evos.

Mine looks like this


The ones i bought look like this

and this

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

The middle one should be the "most recent" one for Evo VIII/IX, that's the one I have on my IX. If I'm not mistaken, they are inter-changeable.

prowakeskater

iTrader: (14)

I noticed this too. Thought they were replicas

fjm9898

iTrader: (2)

i ask because i have bought the bottom two and neither worked for me.

the middle one in the car it wouldnt start and the bottom one it would start but idle at like 2600RPM

so i keep having to go back to the one posted at the top.

GotWheelHop

iTrader: (39)

I have used all 3 of them in my throttle bodies before. You have to reset the BISS when you change them as well.

njboy

iTrader: (1)

Mine looks like the middle one and the OEM replacement looked the same. In theory they should all work. Check for vacuum leaks. Even the smallest can cause high idles.

MrJuls

I wish I had a high idle.Car idles very low when cold,and my tuner tried adjusting it in evoscan but then the idling goes up and down.

fjm9898

iTrader: (2)

if you have the OEM TB you can adjust the idle screw on the top and raise your idle (basically by adding more air like a very small vac leak)

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

If his car only has a low idle when cold, this is the wrong way to fix it. The correct way is to fix whatever is wrong in his tune.

irace2much

iTrader: (1)

I have the reverse prob
My car cold has normal idle but when it's hot it almost dies and yes I turned up the screw but then when it's cold it idles too high
It's got to b the icv acting up I think

MrJuls

I agree,It's not the correct way to fix via the BISS(Base idle set screw).I just left it now,so when it's cold I just drive it easy,or let it idle before I drive off.