Tightening the turning circumference?
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: FQ Story, Phoenix
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Large turn radius is due to the 13 to 1 steering ratio, there is nothing you can do to reduce the radius. You would need to replace the steering rack with a higher ratio, but if you do it will change the steering input (slower).
Winston
Winston
#17
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
Don't use the handbrake, as you could damage the center diff.
You might be able to get a tighter U-turn by doing something like gunning it as you start the turn, then lifting off the throttle to swing the backside around... Or something like that; I do autocross and this is usually the kind of maneuver I try to avoid; but maybe the drifters here will know all about it. Definitely something you want to practice in a safe clear area before you try it in traffic, anyway.
You might be able to get a tighter U-turn by doing something like gunning it as you start the turn, then lifting off the throttle to swing the backside around... Or something like that; I do autocross and this is usually the kind of maneuver I try to avoid; but maybe the drifters here will know all about it. Definitely something you want to practice in a safe clear area before you try it in traffic, anyway.
Last edited by vtluu; Feb 11, 2004 at 03:09 PM.
#19
Evolved Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Maxima has a turning circle of 40'. Consider yourself lucky.
I think it's a large radius because of the wheelbase and the suspension and wide tires (225 and 235) working against each other to limit movement. Some Maxima owners have found and removed a rubber stop that gives them more side-to-side movement, but the tires rub. Is there anything like that on the Evo?
I think it's a large radius because of the wheelbase and the suspension and wide tires (225 and 235) working against each other to limit movement. Some Maxima owners have found and removed a rubber stop that gives them more side-to-side movement, but the tires rub. Is there anything like that on the Evo?
#20
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ocean, NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But if you need to turn tighter, just tug on the hand brake. (Practice in an empty snow covered parking lot first, of course.)
(Not really recommended for tight city streets.)
What a supurb way to mess up our differentials :/
(Not really recommended for tight city streets.)
What a supurb way to mess up our differentials :/
#21
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Boulder, Co.
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by WINSTON
Large turn radius is due to the 13 to 1 steering ratio, there is nothing you can do to reduce the radius. You would need to replace the steering rack with a higher ratio, but if you do it will change the steering input (slower).
Winston
Large turn radius is due to the 13 to 1 steering ratio, there is nothing you can do to reduce the radius. You would need to replace the steering rack with a higher ratio, but if you do it will change the steering input (slower).
Winston
#24
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
couldnt the differentials have something to do with turning ratio just a guess..
and i dunno abot u Drive02 but my lancer makes a 2 lane u turn..i noticed that when we were at a meet too..we all did a u turn and my car was the only one not going into the 3rd lane maybe cause of the front strut bar? lol
and i dunno abot u Drive02 but my lancer makes a 2 lane u turn..i noticed that when we were at a meet too..we all did a u turn and my car was the only one not going into the 3rd lane maybe cause of the front strut bar? lol
#28
*sigh*
Okay, for the irretrievably literal generation: Firstly, do not let your chicken cross the road -- it's dangerous for the chicken and interferes with traffic.
But for those who insist on taking this at face value: You don't want to try handbrake turns while cruising down a freeway in summer.
This puts stress on the hardware. You don't want to do this on pavement, or anywhere that has reasonable traction. (So people who don't get snow can read this as "Don't do this"). (I'm talking about icy surface conditions you'd have trouble walking on, much less driving.) (Pedantic warning label) this is an advanced technique for people who have practiced this in appropriate environments (e.g. performance driving school, rally events, etc.).
Even on snow/ice, you don't just yank the handbrake on full and pray. You have to be turning to do handbrake turns. You can't induce oversteer unless you have lateral stress on the rear tires. When the car has developed lateral movement in a turn, first you lift (transfer weight forward, unloading the rear wheels), and then a slight nudge on the handbrake (if needed) will aid in breaking traction on the rear wheels. Getting back on the gas will shift weight back onto the rears, helping to nail them down. The handbrake is only an addendum to normal weight transfer management techniques.
If you experience understeer when applying the handbrake, it's because you're transferring weight rearward -- which means you're pulling the handbrake too hard. If a slight nudge doesn't break traction, then you didn't lift right, or you don't have enough lateral moment.
Again: (Disclaimer): I don't use this in traffic. It worked better on the ST165 (with 205 width winter tires). I've only used it once or twice on the EVO, in the parking lot, on ice or fresh powder, to make an extreme turn at walking speed, where traffic isn't getting in the way.
I don't recommend this for novice drivers, or those new to AWD, ...
or for those who can't recognize a joke when they see one!!!
(Okay, buddy, let's see your poetic license and registration.)
Okay, for the irretrievably literal generation: Firstly, do not let your chicken cross the road -- it's dangerous for the chicken and interferes with traffic.
But for those who insist on taking this at face value: You don't want to try handbrake turns while cruising down a freeway in summer.
This puts stress on the hardware. You don't want to do this on pavement, or anywhere that has reasonable traction. (So people who don't get snow can read this as "Don't do this"). (I'm talking about icy surface conditions you'd have trouble walking on, much less driving.) (Pedantic warning label) this is an advanced technique for people who have practiced this in appropriate environments (e.g. performance driving school, rally events, etc.).
Even on snow/ice, you don't just yank the handbrake on full and pray. You have to be turning to do handbrake turns. You can't induce oversteer unless you have lateral stress on the rear tires. When the car has developed lateral movement in a turn, first you lift (transfer weight forward, unloading the rear wheels), and then a slight nudge on the handbrake (if needed) will aid in breaking traction on the rear wheels. Getting back on the gas will shift weight back onto the rears, helping to nail them down. The handbrake is only an addendum to normal weight transfer management techniques.
If you experience understeer when applying the handbrake, it's because you're transferring weight rearward -- which means you're pulling the handbrake too hard. If a slight nudge doesn't break traction, then you didn't lift right, or you don't have enough lateral moment.
Again: (Disclaimer): I don't use this in traffic. It worked better on the ST165 (with 205 width winter tires). I've only used it once or twice on the EVO, in the parking lot, on ice or fresh powder, to make an extreme turn at walking speed, where traffic isn't getting in the way.
I don't recommend this for novice drivers, or those new to AWD, ...
or for those who can't recognize a joke when they see one!!!
(Okay, buddy, let's see your poetic license and registration.)