Engine oil drain when removing valve cover?
Jan 14, 2013, 01:13 PM
#16
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Mm yeh you are right. Remove cams would be the right way to do it. Yeh I saw that timing belt tool that long *** rod. I already ordered the lifter removal tool, but I will reconsider which way to go. I appreciate your useful comment even with torque specs.
Jan 14, 2013, 02:48 PM
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I was just wondering if I have to drain the oil since I'm gonna technically open the engine ..
Besides, if I let someone do this job, the labor fee would be pretty expansive, right?
Hopefully, my job won't go with that senario
Edit: Oh you are the one who has +300K miles evo. I saw a lot of your maintenance threads haha. I highly respect you, sir.
Last edited by akqowns; Jan 14, 2013 at 02:51 PM.
Jan 14, 2013, 03:25 PM
#21
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I wish I could tell you how well the prying technique works. I had a box full of new lifters and the valve cover off and was all ready to go at it with a large screwdriver. Well, I just couldn't bring myself to do all that prying on that beautiful head. Call me chicken but I pulled the cams.
Pull the cams and you have another can of worms - timing.
Anyway, there's a lot of ways this job can go wrong.
Pull the cams and you have another can of worms - timing.
Anyway, there's a lot of ways this job can go wrong.
Jan 14, 2013, 03:42 PM
#22
Oh, I see.. this job seems pretty easy to do but also tricky at the same time.
I was just wondering if I have to drain the oil since I'm gonna technically open the engine ..
Besides, if I let someone do this job, the labor fee would be pretty expansive, right?
Hopefully, my job won't go with that senario
Edit: Oh you are the one who has +300K miles evo. I saw a lot of your maintenance threads haha. I highly respect you, sir.
I was just wondering if I have to drain the oil since I'm gonna technically open the engine ..
Besides, if I let someone do this job, the labor fee would be pretty expansive, right?
Hopefully, my job won't go with that senario
Edit: Oh you are the one who has +300K miles evo. I saw a lot of your maintenance threads haha. I highly respect you, sir.
Jan 14, 2013, 05:02 PM
#23
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I will planning to do it in a week hopefully, all I need is a good one free day .
I will update how it goes guys.
Again, I really appreciate all the helps !
I will update how it goes guys.
Again, I really appreciate all the helps !
Jan 21, 2013, 07:51 PM
#24
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So I did bleed my lifters without cams removal.
It worked like a charm, and after bleed all lifters, I applied some RTV on gasket.
Everything went smooth, no leak from valve cover, car starts fine.
But I found out that I have bad lifters.
So, it still ticks a little but a lot more quiter !
It worked like a charm, and after bleed all lifters, I applied some RTV on gasket.
Everything went smooth, no leak from valve cover, car starts fine.
But I found out that I have bad lifters.
So, it still ticks a little but a lot more quiter !
Jan 21, 2013, 09:46 PM
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I bleed them until I can depress with my thumb and made sure no oils stuck in lifters.
hmm didn't know there was injector tick lol
well at least I can't hear the tick inside of the car anymore.
Also, I'm glad I attempt this job myself. It was really fun job and I was also surprised that cams and lifters were so tiny.. haha
Jul 16, 2014, 08:36 AM
#28
IMO the tool to remove the lifters, while the cam is still installed, is not worth the extra $$ and possible implications you may run into. Like dropping something where it wasnt suppose to go. Also removing the camshafts, in order to get to the lifters, is far easier than using the tool i think you're describing (ie take lifters out, while cams in..). You seem mechanically inclined, so it will be painless for you.
Money would be better spent on the actual timing belt removal tool, the long rod one that pushes down the timing belts' hydraulic tensioner. You can get one for 15 bucks off of jaysracing.com
Here's some additional info you may need;
Torque specs:
Cam caps/covers ~ 16ftlb.
CAS (cam angle sensor) ~ 17ftlb.
Cam gear bolts ~ 65ftlb.
Valve cover bolts ~ 89inchlbs.
As 4RETECH said, do the lifters one at a time, and put them back in their original positions ( i also put the rockers in the original positions). Also do one cam at a time, and lube the f*** out of the timing belt tool before using it.
Money would be better spent on the actual timing belt removal tool, the long rod one that pushes down the timing belts' hydraulic tensioner. You can get one for 15 bucks off of jaysracing.com
Here's some additional info you may need;
Torque specs:
Cam caps/covers ~ 16ftlb.
CAS (cam angle sensor) ~ 17ftlb.
Cam gear bolts ~ 65ftlb.
Valve cover bolts ~ 89inchlbs.
As 4RETECH said, do the lifters one at a time, and put them back in their original positions ( i also put the rockers in the original positions). Also do one cam at a time, and lube the f*** out of the timing belt tool before using it.
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