WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

I know this issue has been beaten to death already but I don't have a computer to properly research on. So, on to the issue.

I purchased this evo 9 with a Perrin dp, hfc and a tanabe cat back. When driving it doesn't rattle but upon deceleration and acceleration around 3500-4000 rpm an annoying rattle appears. Upon inspection under the vehicle I found that the front tie bar has already been spaced with washers but it still touches the down pipe. This must be where the rattle is coming from. I don't want to add any more washers as the tie bar contacts the ground on steep inclines as is. It appears that the downpipe has room above it to be pushed up but how should I go about this?

I guess I'm just looking for ways on how to get the tie bar to not contact the down pipe without adding any washers or having to dent the dp. If the dp hangars are bent downwards could that angle the dp enough to clear the front tie bar? Will this affect the catback and cause that to bump the undercarriage? I attached pics for further explanation.

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

if the downpipe were installed properly or fits properly (i'm assuming perrin does) then it should only need 1 washer on each side to clear the crossbar. i'd reinstall the downpipe / exhaust and make sure it's tucked up as far as it goes and see if that fixes it

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

Really? Hmmp. I looked at the connection at the o2 housing and the bolts were snug. It uses the bolts/springs to tighten. Once I get an actual workspace ill probably get a new donut gasket and re-install it.

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

Get actual aluminum spacers from home depot, lowes, or ace hardware etc.. About a 1/4" would do the trick most likely w/ longer bolts.. Washers are ghetto IMO. I wouldn't tamper with the actual brackets or pipe. You can still sell it in this state, if need be.

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

Have you done this? On a lowered car? Scraping?

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

Yes this seems to be the best remedy i've come up with, please correct if im wrong... One washer wont cut it with the stock muffler hangers (i.e. rubber ones) with most aftermarket downpipes in my experience. But you can get away with one washer, if you upgrade the hangers you something with a higher durometer (ie stiffer/ won't move as much). The motor moves under acceleration, along with the DP, especially if you have all the stock motor/ tranny/ dogbone mounts.. Its up to you.

Edited..

Ryuartz

iTrader: (15)

I would just remove lower tie bars. I have been told it wont do much on our car.

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

Who's replacing axles? How much of a difference is there when removing the front tie bar?

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, got mixed with another post.. I fixed it.

But I wouldn't remove it, if you didn't have to. I've never personally seen or heard of anybody scraping it.. I think it's pointless to remove OE tie bars, they're must of been a reason Mitsu engineers put it there in the first place... While the bar looks thin, it serves a purpose. Whether it be "tying" the frame rails together or to protect certain parts while they are at their extremities.

xXANCHORMONXx

iTrader: (15)

I did the same thing I bought .5 inch longer bolts and used some bolts that were bigger than the bolt to space it.

Worked great!

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

^ nice, good to hear others are doing the same

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

About how far are you guys having to space it?

xXANCHORMONXx

iTrader: (15)

Mine cleared it to where I have maybe .2 inches between the bars and the dp.

WikdEvo

iTrader: (8)

I'm talking about how much of a space is there from where it originally bolted up to the frame to where you have it now.

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

^x2