Perrin dp rattle
#1
Perrin dp rattle
I know this issue has been beaten to death already but I don't have a computer to properly research on. So, on to the issue.
I purchased this evo 9 with a Perrin dp, hfc and a tanabe cat back. When driving it doesn't rattle but upon deceleration and acceleration around 3500-4000 rpm an annoying rattle appears. Upon inspection under the vehicle I found that the front tie bar has already been spaced with washers but it still touches the down pipe. This must be where the rattle is coming from. I don't want to add any more washers as the tie bar contacts the ground on steep inclines as is. It appears that the downpipe has room above it to be pushed up but how should I go about this?
I guess I'm just looking for ways on how to get the tie bar to not contact the down pipe without adding any washers or having to dent the dp. If the dp hangars are bent downwards could that angle the dp enough to clear the front tie bar? Will this affect the catback and cause that to bump the undercarriage? I attached pics for further explanation.
I purchased this evo 9 with a Perrin dp, hfc and a tanabe cat back. When driving it doesn't rattle but upon deceleration and acceleration around 3500-4000 rpm an annoying rattle appears. Upon inspection under the vehicle I found that the front tie bar has already been spaced with washers but it still touches the down pipe. This must be where the rattle is coming from. I don't want to add any more washers as the tie bar contacts the ground on steep inclines as is. It appears that the downpipe has room above it to be pushed up but how should I go about this?
I guess I'm just looking for ways on how to get the tie bar to not contact the down pipe without adding any washers or having to dent the dp. If the dp hangars are bent downwards could that angle the dp enough to clear the front tie bar? Will this affect the catback and cause that to bump the undercarriage? I attached pics for further explanation.
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Get actual aluminum spacers from home depot, lowes, or ace hardware etc.. About a 1/4" would do the trick most likely w/ longer bolts.. Washers are ghetto IMO. I wouldn't tamper with the actual brackets or pipe. You can still sell it in this state, if need be.
Last edited by BEKevo; Jan 18, 2013 at 01:26 PM.
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Yes this seems to be the best remedy i've come up with, please correct if im wrong... One washer wont cut it with the stock muffler hangers (i.e. rubber ones) with most aftermarket downpipes in my experience. But you can get away with one washer, if you upgrade the hangers you something with a higher durometer (ie stiffer/ won't move as much). The motor moves under acceleration, along with the DP, especially if you have all the stock motor/ tranny/ dogbone mounts.. Its up to you.
Edited..
Edited..
Last edited by BEKevo; Jan 19, 2013 at 10:38 AM.
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#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Sorry, got mixed with another post.. I fixed it.
But I wouldn't remove it, if you didn't have to. I've never personally seen or heard of anybody scraping it.. I think it's pointless to remove OE tie bars, they're must of been a reason Mitsu engineers put it there in the first place... While the bar looks thin, it serves a purpose. Whether it be "tying" the frame rails together or to protect certain parts while they are at their extremities.
But I wouldn't remove it, if you didn't have to. I've never personally seen or heard of anybody scraping it.. I think it's pointless to remove OE tie bars, they're must of been a reason Mitsu engineers put it there in the first place... While the bar looks thin, it serves a purpose. Whether it be "tying" the frame rails together or to protect certain parts while they are at their extremities.
Last edited by BEKevo; Jan 19, 2013 at 11:12 AM.