Burning clutch smell...help a newbie out
Feb 20, 2013, 12:05 PM
#33
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A few things for the new guy. I know all of these posts have good advice in them, but I think it may not be getting conveyed.
1. Slipping the clutch is necessary to drive a manual. Think of these in the context of using an angle grinder, or something with a cutoff wheel against metal. Same principle.
You're either engaging it:
A. Too gently. Caused when you aren't letting the clutch out quickly enough. This causes the clutch disc (which is a friction material) to heat up rapidly, and work less effectively. This will cause the dead animal gross smell of burning clutch (providing you have an organic material clutch). Think of this like taking your grinder, spinning it up to high RPM, GENTLY applying it to metal, and then continue to SLOWLY apply pressure. You'll see the disc start to heat up, and lose a bit of bite.
B. Too quickly. This is referred to often as "dumping" the clutch. This would basically be spinning that aforementioned grinder up to high RPM and dropping it with heavy pressure onto the metal. This doesn't allow the clutch to effectively do it's job, and sends the shock through the driveline. Since our cars are AWD, and the system is designed to provide as much grip as possible, the tires won't spin much, and as you can imagine, this causes significant stress to the various components between the clutch, and the tire (read: everything expensive).
C. Just right. This WILL require "slipping the clutch". Slipping the clutch is NOT bad. It's what you SHOULD be doing. Slipping it too much is bad. Finding that balance of smooth operation, and drivability is what makes you a good driver.
2. My suggestion for EVERYone driving a manual, especially modern ones which are impossible to stall, is to understand the relationship with inertia.
Sitting at a stop, right foot away from everything. You should attempt to get the car to move JUST by using the clutch. This may require you to "pump" the clutch a bit as the car starts rolling, and the engine bogs by taking the weight of the car. As the car rolls, the inertia becomes less, and ultimately you should be able to have your foot off the clutch, and off the gas/brake and just be rolling in first gear.
That will help illustrate the engagement point of the clutch, and how sensitive it can be.
The next step is leaving it in gear as is, and applying the gas. Do it smoothly, and the car won't lurch.
3. LASTLY. I despise the whole "is my clutch worn?" "Do a 4th gear pull". Yes, this will show that your clutch is getting worn, but if your clutch doesn't slip in your day to day driving/using, then your clutch is fine. The same way that a stock brand new clutch in a 600hp car will slip regardless. Nothing is wrong with that clutch, but it may not be enough for the car.
Ok... end dissertation.
1. Slipping the clutch is necessary to drive a manual. Think of these in the context of using an angle grinder, or something with a cutoff wheel against metal. Same principle.
You're either engaging it:
A. Too gently. Caused when you aren't letting the clutch out quickly enough. This causes the clutch disc (which is a friction material) to heat up rapidly, and work less effectively. This will cause the dead animal gross smell of burning clutch (providing you have an organic material clutch). Think of this like taking your grinder, spinning it up to high RPM, GENTLY applying it to metal, and then continue to SLOWLY apply pressure. You'll see the disc start to heat up, and lose a bit of bite.
B. Too quickly. This is referred to often as "dumping" the clutch. This would basically be spinning that aforementioned grinder up to high RPM and dropping it with heavy pressure onto the metal. This doesn't allow the clutch to effectively do it's job, and sends the shock through the driveline. Since our cars are AWD, and the system is designed to provide as much grip as possible, the tires won't spin much, and as you can imagine, this causes significant stress to the various components between the clutch, and the tire (read: everything expensive).
C. Just right. This WILL require "slipping the clutch". Slipping the clutch is NOT bad. It's what you SHOULD be doing. Slipping it too much is bad. Finding that balance of smooth operation, and drivability is what makes you a good driver.
2. My suggestion for EVERYone driving a manual, especially modern ones which are impossible to stall, is to understand the relationship with inertia.
Sitting at a stop, right foot away from everything. You should attempt to get the car to move JUST by using the clutch. This may require you to "pump" the clutch a bit as the car starts rolling, and the engine bogs by taking the weight of the car. As the car rolls, the inertia becomes less, and ultimately you should be able to have your foot off the clutch, and off the gas/brake and just be rolling in first gear.
That will help illustrate the engagement point of the clutch, and how sensitive it can be.
The next step is leaving it in gear as is, and applying the gas. Do it smoothly, and the car won't lurch.
3. LASTLY. I despise the whole "is my clutch worn?" "Do a 4th gear pull". Yes, this will show that your clutch is getting worn, but if your clutch doesn't slip in your day to day driving/using, then your clutch is fine. The same way that a stock brand new clutch in a 600hp car will slip regardless. Nothing is wrong with that clutch, but it may not be enough for the car.
Ok... end dissertation.
Feb 20, 2013, 12:30 PM
#34
A few things for the new guy. I know all of these posts have good advice in them, but I think it may not be getting conveyed.
1. Slipping the clutch is necessary to drive a manual. Think of these in the context of using an angle grinder, or something with a cutoff wheel against metal. Same principle.
You're either engaging it:
A. Too gently. Caused when you aren't letting the clutch out quickly enough. This causes the clutch disc (which is a friction material) to heat up rapidly, and work less effectively. This will cause the dead animal gross smell of burning clutch (providing you have an organic material clutch). Think of this like taking your grinder, spinning it up to high RPM, GENTLY applying it to metal, and then continue to SLOWLY apply pressure. You'll see the disc start to heat up, and lose a bit of bite.
B. Too quickly. This is referred to often as "dumping" the clutch. This would basically be spinning that aforementioned grinder up to high RPM and dropping it with heavy pressure onto the metal. This doesn't allow the clutch to effectively do it's job, and sends the shock through the driveline. Since our cars are AWD, and the system is designed to provide as much grip as possible, the tires won't spin much, and as you can imagine, this causes significant stress to the various components between the clutch, and the tire (read: everything expensive).
C. Just right. This WILL require "slipping the clutch". Slipping the clutch is NOT bad. It's what you SHOULD be doing. Slipping it too much is bad. Finding that balance of smooth operation, and drivability is what makes you a good driver.
2. My suggestion for EVERYone driving a manual, especially modern ones which are impossible to stall, is to understand the relationship with inertia.
Sitting at a stop, right foot away from everything. You should attempt to get the car to move JUST by using the clutch. This may require you to "pump" the clutch a bit as the car starts rolling, and the engine bogs by taking the weight of the car. As the car rolls, the inertia becomes less, and ultimately you should be able to have your foot off the clutch, and off the gas/brake and just be rolling in first gear.
That will help illustrate the engagement point of the clutch, and how sensitive it can be.
The next step is leaving it in gear as is, and applying the gas. Do it smoothly, and the car won't lurch.
3. LASTLY. I despise the whole "is my clutch worn?" "Do a 4th gear pull". Yes, this will show that your clutch is getting worn, but if your clutch doesn't slip in your day to day driving/using, then your clutch is fine. The same way that a stock brand new clutch in a 600hp car will slip regardless. Nothing is wrong with that clutch, but it may not be enough for the car.
Ok... end dissertation.
1. Slipping the clutch is necessary to drive a manual. Think of these in the context of using an angle grinder, or something with a cutoff wheel against metal. Same principle.
You're either engaging it:
A. Too gently. Caused when you aren't letting the clutch out quickly enough. This causes the clutch disc (which is a friction material) to heat up rapidly, and work less effectively. This will cause the dead animal gross smell of burning clutch (providing you have an organic material clutch). Think of this like taking your grinder, spinning it up to high RPM, GENTLY applying it to metal, and then continue to SLOWLY apply pressure. You'll see the disc start to heat up, and lose a bit of bite.
B. Too quickly. This is referred to often as "dumping" the clutch. This would basically be spinning that aforementioned grinder up to high RPM and dropping it with heavy pressure onto the metal. This doesn't allow the clutch to effectively do it's job, and sends the shock through the driveline. Since our cars are AWD, and the system is designed to provide as much grip as possible, the tires won't spin much, and as you can imagine, this causes significant stress to the various components between the clutch, and the tire (read: everything expensive).
C. Just right. This WILL require "slipping the clutch". Slipping the clutch is NOT bad. It's what you SHOULD be doing. Slipping it too much is bad. Finding that balance of smooth operation, and drivability is what makes you a good driver.
2. My suggestion for EVERYone driving a manual, especially modern ones which are impossible to stall, is to understand the relationship with inertia.
Sitting at a stop, right foot away from everything. You should attempt to get the car to move JUST by using the clutch. This may require you to "pump" the clutch a bit as the car starts rolling, and the engine bogs by taking the weight of the car. As the car rolls, the inertia becomes less, and ultimately you should be able to have your foot off the clutch, and off the gas/brake and just be rolling in first gear.
That will help illustrate the engagement point of the clutch, and how sensitive it can be.
The next step is leaving it in gear as is, and applying the gas. Do it smoothly, and the car won't lurch.
3. LASTLY. I despise the whole "is my clutch worn?" "Do a 4th gear pull". Yes, this will show that your clutch is getting worn, but if your clutch doesn't slip in your day to day driving/using, then your clutch is fine. The same way that a stock brand new clutch in a 600hp car will slip regardless. Nothing is wrong with that clutch, but it may not be enough for the car.
Ok... end dissertation.
Feb 20, 2013, 12:32 PM
#35
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This was much more helpful. I would add, and maybe it was said earlier, watch where you leave your foot when you drive. My dad has a nasty habit of driving with his foot resting on the clutch pedal, which results in it being depressed about a quarter to half an inch. For sensitive clutches, this is a big no-no.
I should also add that after a clutch has been slipped and you get that smell, it can remain for several days (especially under the hood) this doesn't mean necessarily that you're STILL slipping the clutch improperly, it just takes a while for the smell to dissipate.
Feb 20, 2013, 12:36 PM
#36
Yes. Sorry. That's called "riding the clutch". It's bad for ALL clutches.
I should also add that after a clutch has been slipped and you get that smell, it can remain for several days (especially under the hood) this doesn't mean necessarily that you're STILL slipping the clutch improperly, it just takes a while for the smell to dissipate.
I should also add that after a clutch has been slipped and you get that smell, it can remain for several days (especially under the hood) this doesn't mean necessarily that you're STILL slipping the clutch improperly, it just takes a while for the smell to dissipate.
Feb 20, 2013, 12:38 PM
#37
I'll add, while this may be true for most cars, if you've ever driven a VW you know that there's about a foot of play where the pedal does absolutely nothing. The obvious reason is they are pieces of crap (or just fool proof), but arguably, you could do this all day long and never harm the clutch.
Feb 20, 2013, 01:03 PM
#38
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Maybe I could have been more clear. I know it's technically "riding the clutch" but I think a lot of people don't realize how little pressure is required to actually "ride" the clutch. E.g., some people think if the pedal isn't halfway down, they aren't riding it. Other people know the slightest amount of pressure can cause damage.
The only reason you're EVER allowed to keep a foot on the clutch is if you're a professional racing driver.
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