$850 to install Boost, A/F, Oil Temp Gauges in an MR?
#17
Former Sponsor
I won't get specific here as to not break any rules but I'd guess average time to install gauges correctly (solder, heat shrink, etc) for an experienced tech is 1 to 1.5hrs per gauge. That being said a "normal" performance shop rate is anywhere from 85-125$ per hour. Even at worst case you'd be at $562 for install, which is still quite a bit more than most shops here around Chicagoland. In my opinion an honest reasonable rate to install a guage is somewhere between 100-130 per gauge depending on the gauge. That is for a shop, for someone's side job you should be able to get done for even less! Good luck!
Last edited by gearedupinc; Mar 18, 2013 at 09:44 AM.
#19
Thanks for all the info guys. So I think the walkaway is that unless I can get these guys to do it for $450ish in labor, or less, I should just have someone else do it/do it myself. I am happy to pay a small premium for convenience and peace of mind, but I emphasize "small". Given that I would rather not sour the relationship because I want to use these guys for tuning later (which they have an excellent reputation for and did well for the first owner) I'll like move on to another shop or to doing this myself.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#21
Evolved Member
iTrader: (41)
I won't get specific here as to not break any rules but I'd guess average time to install gauges correctly (solder, heat shrink, etc) for an experienced tech is 1 to 1.5hrs per gauge. That being said a "normal" performance shop rate is anywhere from 85-125$ per hour. Even at worst case you'd be at $562 for install, which is still quite a bit more than most shops here around Chicagoland. In my opinion an honest reasonable rate to install a guage is somewhere between 100-130 per gauge depending on the gauge. That is for a shop, for someone's side job you should be able to get done for even less! Good luck!
The others one would be the Oil Temp, as you would have to do an oil change at the same time. I think four hours is a little optimistic for all three guages, but maybe a shop can do this in less then five. At home using a floor jack, expect to burn the day at the parents house.
#22
The one that would cost the most time would be the A/F, with removing the DP, drilling the required hole and welding the Bung in place. Then install and routing the wire harness, soldering..etc
The others one would be the Oil Temp, as you would have to do an oil change at the same time. I think four hours is a little optimistic for all three guages, but maybe a shop can do this in less then five. At home using a floor jack, expect to burn the day at the parents house.
The others one would be the Oil Temp, as you would have to do an oil change at the same time. I think four hours is a little optimistic for all three guages, but maybe a shop can do this in less then five. At home using a floor jack, expect to burn the day at the parents house.
#23
Former Sponsor
The one that would cost the most time would be the A/F, with removing the DP, drilling the required hole and welding the Bung in place. Then install and routing the wire harness, soldering..etc
The others one would be the Oil Temp, as you would have to do an oil change at the same time. I think four hours is a little optimistic for all three guages, but maybe a shop can do this in less then five. At home using a floor jack, expect to burn the day at the parents house.
The others one would be the Oil Temp, as you would have to do an oil change at the same time. I think four hours is a little optimistic for all three guages, but maybe a shop can do this in less then five. At home using a floor jack, expect to burn the day at the parents house.
I promise a shop can do it in less than 5
#24
EvoM Community Team
iTrader: (134)
EDIT: So for posterity sake, you DO NOT NEED to drain all the oil to do this job unless you were planning to do an oil change anyway.
Once you're ready to remove the forward LCA bolt and the motor has been sitting (to let the oil collect in the sump)for a few minutes, pull the filter (have a catch ready for the oil).
Some oil (~300ml) will be lost, but you can re-use the filter and top off the lost oil before you start the car up.
Once you're ready to remove the forward LCA bolt and the motor has been sitting (to let the oil collect in the sump)for a few minutes, pull the filter (have a catch ready for the oil).
Some oil (~300ml) will be lost, but you can re-use the filter and top off the lost oil before you start the car up.
OP here is a thread with some info that might help you out:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...iscussion.html
#27
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
My MR had the bung for a WB and while I don't recall exactly how long it took, installing an AEM WB02 sensor and gauge did not even take an hour. If it's an MR with a factory boost gauge, that makes that gauge as simple as swapping and possibly running a longer line. Half the fun of doing these things is doing them yourself anyway Good luck.
#28
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
Have I just been out of the game for a while or does this sound really high? The shop wants to bill 6.5 hours to put three gauges in for me. The car previously had a A/F Uego on it, so I see no reason the O2 bung wouldn't still be there, and the MRs have most of what you need for oil temp and boost already behind the dash. I realize it's not direct plug and play, but is this what I should expect to have three gauges installed?
Thanks.
Thanks.
... but even charging you an extra $20-30 fee for welding, still would be less then $700 at the most ridiculous $100/hr tech rate.... so still dumbfounded how $850 was the total.... did they include the reach around
#30
Alas, they did not. Though for $850 I would expect a little more than a reach around.
That said, for the sake of avoiding the hassle, I would gladly pay a small premium to have this professionally done, and to not have to spend my time doing it. $350 is not a slight premium though. If anyone knows of any reputable shops up here that are going to actually solder the connections and wire the wideband to the ECU for future tuning purposes and would do this for $500 labor or just over/under, PM me their contact info. Willing to drive a little south/north as well (say 60-80 miles).
Thanks again for all the info.
That said, for the sake of avoiding the hassle, I would gladly pay a small premium to have this professionally done, and to not have to spend my time doing it. $350 is not a slight premium though. If anyone knows of any reputable shops up here that are going to actually solder the connections and wire the wideband to the ECU for future tuning purposes and would do this for $500 labor or just over/under, PM me their contact info. Willing to drive a little south/north as well (say 60-80 miles).
Thanks again for all the info.