Sorry, but just wondering how you make 250+ HP on just switching a Map??

Unless you are Elec boost and jamming it to 47 PSI??
I've seen maybe 100 HP change, thats all.

Just curious, because I want to get that tune.

 

Quite simple. Having a turbo that flows massive cfm helps for starters. Have one map for low boost on 91/93 and make around 500 and have a map for high boost on E85 that makes 200-250 more. That's actually what I plan on doing with my car because E85 is priced outrageously where I live.

 

Yeah, I guess thats what I was missing. the whole boost (low map 93/ high boost E85). thanks

 

^^^^ thats cuz you only have high boost 93/high boost e85 maps lol. LOW BOOST whats that???

 

haha, yeah

 

Low boost is the equivalent of automotive blue *****

 

Yep e85 is just amazing and its actually cheaper than 93 most places here in ga. On a side note I realise why ppl dont change their fenders for weight saving these things weight like half a pound maybe lol. I just got some cf flared fenders in and currently doing the change. Thank god I got flarred one else it would have been a waste of money.

 

Well...I am on conservative tunes on my black car 550whp pump / 750whp e98 (low boost on e - 35psi, could jam to mid 40's easily). 250 is completely feasible, all depends on the set up.

OP, If you get away with $30k for a DEPENDABLE (to the extent that it can be) 800whp build where you are doing little/no wrenching yourself, you'll be lucky.

To really be "reliable" expect: (this is "go" aspect only with only major things listed - hopefully I don't forget too much)
Built motor/head
Baffled/wetsump oil pan (highly recommended)
Built trans/tcase/rear diff
twin/triple plate clutch
ignition (see sparktech etc)
fuel system (surge tank is semi necessary if you don't run at atleast 1/2 tank all the time)
Turbo kit (6266 or bigger)
Exhaust (turbo back)
Intake (AMS/magnus v5)
Stand alone ECU ( I would not recommend stock at these levels)
3.5-4" IC (at the bare minimum)
Upgraded cold and hotside piping
Gauges (at bare minimum - oil temp/pressure, boost, afr)
lots of random things like turbo blanket/heat wrap/gold reflective heat tape

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Now...if you really want the car to remain balanced or if you plan on realistically tracking the car (road course).....

Good suspension set up (read atleast $5k here on up to 10k+ for triple adjustable craziness)

Tires/rims/possibly widebody - you have a ton more power and need more road contact patch to have traction. (mid 700's I can break 35/295 ad08s on 18x10.5's through third/sometimes part of 4th, on roads that provide good traction)

Upgraded brakes (you go a lot faster, and need to stop a lot faster without boiling your fluid or melting your street pads on your stock brakes. You can get away with upgraded lines, 2 piece rotors, pads, brake ducts, 600degre+ fluid here if you aren't planning on really tracking much. Keep in mind even with these upgrades you WILL boil your fluid pushing hard on any roadcourse that carries any kind of speed (with that much power) without a BBK and some serious ducting.

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As you can see, this can get really expensive very quickly. There is also a risk after you get this done you may purchase another widebody for track only duty with a similar/more extensive mod list (ask me how I know )

 

Is a surge tank necessary if you don't plan on road racing the car?

 

Whats the clutch wear like at these kind of power level?

I have never owned a high HP car but base on my judgement about BR and a few other high HP cars, they seem to burn through pretty quick at these levels. Which make sense for BR doing an auto conversion because at those power levels it would be a cheaper alternative to go auto with less wear then to replace your clutch a few times. In most cases, you'll end up seeing these cars being sold after being well deep pocketed into the builds.

Any thoughts?

 

From what ive read it seems like 8k to 20k is the range for a daily driven evo depending on how often you race and what type of daily driving you do (city or highway).

 

Not 'necessary' but you have to keep in mind that certain fuel systems on the market can starve the pumps under heavy g-load at around 1/2 tank. Some do much better, the levels for a buschur double pumper seem to be around 1/4 tank+. So you just have to keep an eye on fuel level, its a really stupid reason to lean out and blow the motor. The other big issue to keep in mind is that systems that rely on hobs switches give you another point of failure. Having a switch go bad in the middle of the drag strip or on a long pull will ruin your day in a hurry.

So...I don't think you 'need' one but if you are talking about making 700+ whp, I think it is worth the insurance that it gives you.

It is really difficult to answer that question. It really depends on how you drive the car. If you are going to the drag strip all the time (a place you won't ever find mine due to the drivetrain costs of actually launching the car a lot), you can expect very short life out of clutches and other drivetrain parts (even if they are built). Things like tcases really don't like repeated 700+ whp launches. On the other hand if it is a weekend driver you will see longer life as long as you aren't launching the car a lot. Road racing actually is much gentler on drivetrain parts than autocross/drag as you aren't launching a lot.

The other thing to keep in mind is clutch selection. A tilton carbon/carbon will get destroyed on the street as you won't even really have the heat you need for it to work correctly. The exedy triple carbons seem to do fairly well, but again are not something I would use for anything other than a weekend/track car, a daily driver would destroy them in short order. I think the concensus is generally exedy triple metallics on high powered street cars is a great midline between grip and drive train shock and life. Some people like QM/ACT etc, but my experience riding in these vehicles is a lot more drivetrain shock (although they grip extremely well, and shift well at high rpm's). I would rather have a slightly shorter clutch life, and increase the life of my trans/tcase/rear diff.

**Keep in mind this is very abbreviated and being written from work haha. If anyone has any specific questions you can PM me**

 

so much wrong with this post.

 

Okay, mind elaborating?

You can build a 800whp car for cheaper for sure, but you will have ton's of down time as **** breaks. If you want to do things right it costs money. If you don't do your own work (like the OP), labor costs $$$. There is a reason so many of the high hp builds end up getting sold. Notice English Racing said around $25k-30k... I get that the suspension numbers are high (i.e. based on top end track coilovers) and that you could get away w/ upgraded brake lines on a purely street car that sees no time in hpde/autocross...but otherwise.

If I am completely mistaken about something please let me know instead of just stating "so much wrong"

 

Triple will go between 5-15k miles depending on how you use the car, how you launch it if you launch it, stop and go traffic, etc. If you use it on the highway the clutch will hold for quite a long time actually...I got something like 30k out of my last rebuild, 3 launches is all and the rest was already moving when I nailed it.