iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, thanks for the good info! I can't really spend extra cash right now since I need to put a deposit down on a house soon so a bypass or "quick fix" will have to do for now. Do you think I could make it work with the patch idea I had? I only drive the Evo once a week currently.

Also, do you have an idea of how much pressure is on the low pressure end of the system?

Thanks again

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

I dont know the exact psi. your patch idea should work.

iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. I think that I'm going to give it a try on Monday and I'll see what happens. I'll post my results as soon as I can. Thanks again for all the help!

iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

So I just patched it and it seems to be ok but now the pump is making a whining sound. Is this normal? I didn't run the ps without fluid for more than a second so I don't think it's damaged. Is it just working fluid through the system? Maybe purging air?

iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

Also the wheel will turn easier now. It's not smooth like it was before but it's certainly better than when the line burst.

iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

OK so it's still whining quite a bit. I did some Google research and people said to basically start the car and turn the wheel full left, let it sit for 20 minutes and then turn it full right, let it sit for 20 minutes, and repeat as necessary. I've done this about 5 times now and it seems to have smoothed out a little bit. My concern now is that when I turn the car off it seems like the engine's revs fall slightly more abruptly as if the p/s pulley was kinda stuck or is tighter or something. Any thoughts? I'm done for the night and I'll go back out tomorrow and tinker with it some more. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

The whining noise is probably because you need to bleed the air out. if you run it for a few seconds your not gonna damage it, youll be fine. 20 min seems excessive. the way I always bleed the system when I service power steering systems is top off the resevoir, start the car for a few seconds,shut it off. top off the fluid again, put key in Pos 2 so the wheel unlocks, then i rotate the steering wheel full lock left to right a few times.

After that I check fluid level, top off as needed. Then I start the car and watch the reservoir. keep checking the level and dont let it drop for too long.

the air should have bled out and the pump should not whine anymore.


As far as why your car is acting that way when it shuts down, idk.
I might guess that MAYBE the oem cooler also acts as some pulsation dampener in the system.

iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thanks again, I'll try this as soon as I have free time tomorrow.

I started to think the engine revs dropped so abruptly maybe because it's been cold/rainy all day, the car hasn't ran all day (aside from a few seconds here and there to turn the wheel and back out of the driveway) So, maybe it's just because the moving parts/oils are cold? I don't know, I think I'm just trying to find something to ease my mind at this point and right now the "cold motor conspiracy" is doing the trick.

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

ya Im sure it is. Keep us updated.

iliketoparty

iTrader: (1)

OK so I just came in from trying what you suggested and it's much better now. With the car running the steering is even easier than before!

However, the fluid level is sitting onthe minimum line and the whining is still there a little bit so I'll pick up another quart tomorrow and keep on it. I'll give you an update tomorrow evening.

cerevo

iTrader: (1)

I hate to bump kind of an old thread but I have the chase bays power steering SS lines and I have tried this several times but my pump whines like crazy and the fluid is frothy like its getting air in the line somewhere but I don't see it leaking from anywhere. Thoughts?

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

one concern would be if The braided ss hose has a smaller inner diameter for fluid flow vs. the oem hose.
This may be causing system pressure issues or aeration. Do you still have the oem hoses to swap back in to compare?

Evo_AK

iTrader: (8)

Collin from ToxicFab had a problem with this and I think it's because his res wasn't baffled. That may be your case as well.

cerevo

iTrader: (1)

I don't think I have all of them because I bought the car like this. They are -6AN lines I would think that was big enough. I wonder if the return needs to be bigger though.
Hmm mine is definitely not baffled. There's one little shelf type ledge in there though but nothing like the factory one.
I'll see if I can find out more about this though!

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

The inner diameter of the AN lines are usually smaller than say a regular rubber hose of equivalent outer diameter. The design of the AN system seems to not take into account the inner diameter but rather its outer diameter. Because of wall thickness, inner diameter can vary.

http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/stpg...faf68fc8391439


so here its saying a -6AN line that you have is about .355" for its inner diameter.
Its table above shows that this line is used for 3/8" hose.

Looking at the conversion here, the 3/8" hose actually has a .3750" inner diameter. That difference can cause enough of a restriction in the system and cause issues.
http://www.edsebooks.com/paper/inchm...tml#inchmetric


I was reading on here a while ago some folks having a similar issue when they tried going with AN hoses to replace the coolant hoses. The inner diameters of the oem hose were much larger than the AN and I believe it was causing them some issue. I was gonna switch to AN lines when I had my steering rack off but after researching more into it, the oem lines work just fine. If you wanted to do something custom then I recommend using a ss crimped fitting vs the regular AN fittings that press in. This is what I went with for my ACD relocation line, and while it doesn't have a fancy swivel fitting, it will handle the high pressures in your power steering system better. G/L