Racerx9146

iTrader: (1)

Hello Evo Fans

This is my 1st post. I have a lot of questions but I am still doing my searching and fact finding. Just got my "damaged 2005 Evo". It has low compression on one cylinder. Leak down reveals Exhaust valve issue. I will pull the head this weekend. I have some suspicions how this happened based on the trunk full of stock parts that have been replaced.

Is there a good Evo Cylinder head shop in Nor Cal or somewhere reasonably close? I live near Sacramento, California. My goal is a near stock car with some minor mods.

Also this was found in trunk, Ring a bell for anybody?

thanks Daron

heavens turbo

boost solenoid? theres a few bay area shops around that specialize in evos. works at Infineon raceway, fftec and gst motorsports in Hayward, and some in san jose. not sure about sacramento.

matrho2792

iTrader: (30)

Yep stock boost control solenoid. How many miles are on the car? How bad was the compression and leak down tests? I'm sure a lot of people will tell you to drive it until it pops, but if you have the money just get the motor all sorted out and hopefully never have to worry about it again.

gohdunlam

iTrader: (30)

theres boosted tuning in chico

deylag

iTrader: (23)

Where or Who did you buy this Evo from? Just curious.

I would check for a boost solenoid. Just follow the vacuum lines from the turbo and the wastegate.

There are a bunch of shops available in Nor-Cal. FFtec motorsports is an excellent choice! They have always helped me out with my issues.

Racerx9146

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, the car has 97k and has been well maintained although has Kelford 272's, Perrins exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, not sure if it has a tune or not. I don't have all the history on the car. I plan on detuning it if anything. I have most of the stock parts.

The car idles with a soft miss. As it gets warmer it idles worse and will stall. compression was 150---105---148---152. Cold engine with full battery and throttle open. Leak down on low cylinder showed medium loss with air coming out exhaust at a decent rate.

Car seems very strong when you are on it, no smoke, NO fluid exchange, bubbles in coolant, etc..


Guess I better go out there and see if it has any boost solenoid, do people remove these completely?

Thanks Daron

xXANCHORMONXx

iTrader: (15)

Typically it is replaced with a more advanced boost solenoid or a manual type.

ReidFletcher

iTrader: (1)

Those are good numbers for having cams.

+1 for FFtec.

Racerx9146

iTrader: (1)

A quick update....

I got the head off, the oil is spotless and cylinders seem to be in nice shape. Pistons are very clean.

I confirmed that a exhaust valve is leaking by turning head over and flooding with white spirits, nice leak out the exhaust on the cylinder that showed bad on the leak down. The same exhaust valve seem to have a burnt scorch mark (picture below) on the bottom. Think previous owner got boost happy or a bad tune?

The belt tensioner seems to be leaking.

I think this is the 1st time its been apart by condition of bolt heads and it seems the factory torques the crap out of some of these fasteners. Since I cannot confirm last time the belt was done I will do full belt/tensioner/idler replacement.

It is a bit like working in my old Mazda 323 GTX turbo but more complicated. The undertray is designed by satan! On my Mazda I used a Cometic head gasket, is that overkill for this?

Found the after market boost controller! (picture below)




And of course more questions....

1. Any Motor/transmission mounts that should be replaced at 100K?
2. Are the factory exhaust valves problematic?
3. Is the timing kit at Mitsubishiparts.net with Gates belts for $575 a decent deal?
4. Get intake and exhaust gaskets via MitsubishiParts.net also?
5. Special Head Gasket and stud needed? Any opinions on the this for $299
6. Anything else I should do while I am there?
7. Are the shifter bushings worth replacing? easy to get to right now!

thanks for all your input, it is appreciated.

Daron

TommiM

iTrader: (19)

If your in Norcal I highly recommend FFTEC. I think they moved but are still out in the Bay area.

Racerx9146

iTrader: (1)

So the valve with the scorch mark is not the leaky one, the black one is I think! Valves guides are wasted. Valve seats seem pretty pitted. A lot of wear for 97K

Daron

desiromeo812

iTrader: (13)

The boost solenoid you have seems to be an FFTEC one. Car was probably tuned by FFTEC, I would check with them about it.

Racerx9146

iTrader: (1)

Well I got it running yesterday. Thanks to everyone for the info on this site. All seems good with the exception of a somewhat unstable idle. Not sure how much of that is the Kelford cams or a problem. But it's not stalling anymore and I can make it up the driveway off-boost now

Compression test went from 150-105-150-150 to 200 on all four per my ancient Lisle compression tester.

I put the factory exhaust back on to hopefully get through Cali smog easy. This has seemed to make quite a differance horsepower-wise. Car is still fast but lost the super-thrust feel the Perrins has.

I got my parts and gaskets from STM and MitsubishiParts.net. I had my cylinder head machine work done by Del's Machine in Sacramento. Del's called me at home to remind me to bleed down the lifters. The lifters are quiet after a test drive.

Per machine shop exhaust valves and guides pretty wasted. I replaced all valves with Supertech items. Car came with Supertech springs. Full timing kit. I passed on the trick belts, I talked to a few tuners and they don't think they are noticeably better than factory belts. Regular maint more important. Also did ARP fasteners.

Some observations...

This car, while not impossible, is not super easy to work on. It's a lot like my old Mazda 323 GTX turbo but more stuff and maybe even less space. I took my time but this is no small job, if this is your 1st cylinder head job on a car I would seek a pro! It's probably my 10th and it was trying at times.

I searched and read all the threads on cylinder head/timing belt work. Here are my tips

1. You do not have to remove the crank pulley to change the balance belt. Remove the crank angle sensor and rotate the chopper wheel to remove the belt. My old belt was very loose.
2. I tested the oil pump shaft technique for finding the correct sync. Like everyone say's it must want to fall counter-clockwise to its mark. I verified by removing the bolt and putting the screwdriver in per manual but its not needed once you get a feel for it.
3. I agonized over the belt tension. I eventually went with the 45 degree belt rotation test and made sure I could barely slide the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner before I released it.
4. The water pump bolts come out easier if you access via the hole with the rubber plug in the fender well. Once the engine support has been removed you can shift the motor around to line the bolt and the hole in the frame will "lock" the pulley still while you loosen/tighten the bolt. It's still a mother to get them started and be careful or you will drop them inside the frame which is not a fun Fishing trip
5. You only need to slide the power steering bracket out of the way if you are replacing the idler that lives halfway under that bracket.
6. I did not remove the radiator but I think it would have made the job much easier.
7. I left the exhaust manifold in the car and brought the intake out with the head.

So next for me I think is to diagnose the unstable idle.

1. Boost leak test
2. throttle body clean-out
3. Check cam timing again
4. Test IAC?
5. Smog test
6. Put Perrins exhaust back on and get a tune to see why this thing burned the exhaust valves in the 1st place

Oh and that under-tray is friggen awful, but it needs to go back on if you want the intercooler to work properly...

Again, thanks to all for their contributions to the forum, I supoorted the vendors!

Daron

desiromeo812

iTrader: (13)

Glad you could get it sorted out buddy. And Glad I could help you on the tensioner advice . Let me know when you want to run some logs and see whats going on with it.

-Gary

Racerx9146

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for taking my call Gary. The forums are great and but sometimes you need a live body on the phone to discuss issues.

My idle seems to be improving. Drove it too work for the 1st time today.

I read a few threads about how this car has a wierd idle. Its not a miss because its too irregular. It lopes along nicely for about 10 seconds (~950 rpm) and then almost rythmically has this little abnormal rythm for about 4 seconds and then clears up again. From the tach point of view the RPM does not change.

Will still do the throttle body/boost leak test, car has enough miles that everything needs to be checked.

thanks Daron