Issue: Bad alternator?
Jun 24, 2013, 09:17 AM
#1
Issue: Bad alternator?
Thought I would get a quicker response from here than my local forum.
After taking the car out for testing and for a nice little spirited drive. The car started acting up.
Symptoms
The clock light started going DIM.
My radio would turn off and on every few seconds 10-15~
When the clock got close to turning off, all 3 ACD lights would turn on. I was thinking of ACD pump went to sh*t but I remember that it would constant flash or constantly on.
Windows were going extremely slow to close.
After my radio would turn back on, clock would gain some light, the ACD lights would turn off and return to normal.
My idle went from normally 900rpm to ~2000rpm. This stopped at some point but once I got closer to home it did it agian and my lights were really going DIM now.
At this point, I was likely running on battery power and was almost drained.
Does this sound like the issue is with the ALTERNATOR? IMO, it is because of the symptoms. I was a little worried because of the ACD lights and RPMs jumping to 2000. No unusual sounds that I could hear. I got home from fishing and my wife wouldn't like for me being outside tinkering after being gone for about 3 hours.
Opinions?
Evo is definitely going down for awhile now! damnit!
Yes, I read a few threads stating go to AutoZone to check if it's the alternator or using a multimeter to check output voltage. I will start trying to figure it out later on this week. Luckily, it's not my daily!
After taking the car out for testing and for a nice little spirited drive. The car started acting up.
Symptoms
The clock light started going DIM.
My radio would turn off and on every few seconds 10-15~
When the clock got close to turning off, all 3 ACD lights would turn on. I was thinking of ACD pump went to sh*t but I remember that it would constant flash or constantly on.
Windows were going extremely slow to close.
After my radio would turn back on, clock would gain some light, the ACD lights would turn off and return to normal.
My idle went from normally 900rpm to ~2000rpm. This stopped at some point but once I got closer to home it did it agian and my lights were really going DIM now.
At this point, I was likely running on battery power and was almost drained.
Does this sound like the issue is with the ALTERNATOR? IMO, it is because of the symptoms. I was a little worried because of the ACD lights and RPMs jumping to 2000. No unusual sounds that I could hear. I got home from fishing and my wife wouldn't like for me being outside tinkering after being gone for about 3 hours.
Opinions?
Evo is definitely going down for awhile now! damnit!
Yes, I read a few threads stating go to AutoZone to check if it's the alternator or using a multimeter to check output voltage. I will start trying to figure it out later on this week. Luckily, it's not my daily!
Last edited by NJ_evoIXgsr; Jun 24, 2013 at 09:23 AM.
Jun 24, 2013, 11:21 AM
#3
Will do! I'll check the terminals to make sure they aren't loose.
I plan to run the car on jumper cables with a jump starter that I have to see if the car stays on and running while idle. Once I remove it, I'll see if the car turns off. If not then I'll drive it down the street to see if it starts losing power again.
I plan to run the car on jumper cables with a jump starter that I have to see if the car stays on and running while idle. Once I remove it, I'll see if the car turns off. If not then I'll drive it down the street to see if it starts losing power again.
Jun 24, 2013, 12:53 PM
#4
I got home and it started right up but some symptoms like dim clock and passenger side headlight was off?
Driver side headlight flickered before it started dying again.
Idle was at 900rpm but can tell there was obvious issues.
Opened the engine bay to a tick and louder than normal sound from the timing belt side. Anyone have a clue from the sounds?
video:
http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/mi...f0624.mp4.html
Driver side headlight flickered before it started dying again.
Idle was at 900rpm but can tell there was obvious issues.
Opened the engine bay to a tick and louder than normal sound from the timing belt side. Anyone have a clue from the sounds?
video:
http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/mi...f0624.mp4.html
Jun 25, 2013, 02:35 PM
#5
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Sounds very similar to some of the things my car was doing when my alternator went out. I replaced my battery and still had the same issues with the car but once I replaced the alternator all the weird issues I was having were fixed! (Weird rpm revs, ACD lights flashing, lights dimming, etc.) Miles on your car?
Jun 25, 2013, 11:48 PM
#6
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Sounds like the alternator. When the ecu sees low battery voltage (because its not being charged by the alternator) it will raise idle to try to charge the battery (alternator has full output at 2000rpm). Buy a cheap multimeter (voltmeter) and measure voltage between the two battery terminals. Should be 13.5V+ with car running. If lower replace the alternator
Jun 26, 2013, 04:53 AM
#7
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Sounds like it could be the alt. I was getting a choppy idle but got the brake and battery light which is the indicator the alt is dying. Mine didn't get quite that crazy but like others have said, try the multimeter and hit up an autozone.
I did a write up on the alt swap: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...nator-top.html
Good luck with it.
I did a write up on the alt swap: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...nator-top.html
Good luck with it.
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Jun 26, 2013, 08:35 AM
#10
It looks like lifter ticking as confirmed by other youtube videos. It sounds like it's coming from the left side of the head. Not the bottom end where it would be considered piston slap.
I'll try an oil change. If it annoys me enough, since many threads state this is normal. I may go with revised lifters to remove the noise.
BTW, the car has 117k of mileage.
I'll try an oil change. If it annoys me enough, since many threads state this is normal. I may go with revised lifters to remove the noise.
BTW, the car has 117k of mileage.
Jun 26, 2013, 03:25 PM
#13
no battery or brake light on? check alternator output Via battery, then check connections@alternator i had a similar issue, turned out my alternator connector had fallen off cause the clip was broke had to RTV it on for safe keeping till i could replace the connector.
Jun 26, 2013, 04:13 PM
#14
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Check to make sure your bat terminals are tightened before you go out and buy a new alternator. I thought my alt was giving me problems for the longest time but I rechecked my wires
Jun 27, 2013, 07:26 AM
#15
So....I ended up buying both. I swore it was the alternator due to the issues and symptoms so I found one for cheap from a very good seller on here with 119~ positive reviews. Can't go wrong?
I bought my multimeter but when I finally got around to doing it yesterday. I found some weird findings that led me to believe first is my battery.
After charging, I still got only a reading of about 11.4 (car not turned on).
On startup, the volts dropped to 7.5~.
On idle, 11.8~.
With headlights on, 11.5~
With new battery, 12.6 (car not turned on) GOOD!
On idle, 12.6.....what? No change?
With headlights on, radio on, etc, 12.6.....still no change?
Driving without any symptoms on test drive and no symptoms of battery issues on my 30 minute drive to work.
I did however note some changes. My idle has been steady at around 700-900. It was previously a steady 900.
When I was hitting stops, I was dropping closer to 600RPM then climbing back up. I never really paid much attention to that in the past so it could be normal but I'm in ultra sensitive mode making sure everything is working fine. I smelt some "burning" but again in ultra sensitive mode looking for reasons for something to be wrong while I was driving. It could be nothing.
I'll have to see what my drive home looks like.
Now, I have a backup alternator for the just in case but nothing wrong with that!
I bought my multimeter but when I finally got around to doing it yesterday. I found some weird findings that led me to believe first is my battery.
After charging, I still got only a reading of about 11.4 (car not turned on).
On startup, the volts dropped to 7.5~.
On idle, 11.8~.
With headlights on, 11.5~
With new battery, 12.6 (car not turned on) GOOD!
On idle, 12.6.....what? No change?
With headlights on, radio on, etc, 12.6.....still no change?
Driving without any symptoms on test drive and no symptoms of battery issues on my 30 minute drive to work.
I did however note some changes. My idle has been steady at around 700-900. It was previously a steady 900.
When I was hitting stops, I was dropping closer to 600RPM then climbing back up. I never really paid much attention to that in the past so it could be normal but I'm in ultra sensitive mode making sure everything is working fine. I smelt some "burning" but again in ultra sensitive mode looking for reasons for something to be wrong while I was driving. It could be nothing.
I'll have to see what my drive home looks like.
Now, I have a backup alternator for the just in case but nothing wrong with that!