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Cams without building valvetrain?

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Old Jul 16, 2013, 05:40 PM
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stock is a ticking time bomb ready for a failure.
Old Jul 17, 2013, 02:02 PM
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What about 264's? I hear theres no need for upgrading valvetrain. But I'd rather hear some more
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Old Jul 17, 2013, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkChamorro
What about 264's? I hear theres no need for upgrading valvetrain. But I'd rather hear some more
opinions
You could probably get away with 264's without upgraded valve springs, but why?!? Stock EVO cams are pretty close to that profile already, so you won't feel any noticeable power gains. Your best first step for upgrading your cams is going with 272/272's and while you're in there add some springs and retainers.

O.P. if you plan on doing the valve springs yourself look in to picking up this - http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/t...ompressor.html . It was worth every penny, and you'll end up using it more often than you think (in my case I was helping all my buddies swap cams, valve springs, and/or valve stem seals).
Old Jul 18, 2013, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOinaDSM
You could probably get away with 264's without upgraded valve springs, but why?!? Stock EVO cams are pretty close to that profile already, so you won't feel any noticeable power gains. Your best first step for upgrading your cams is going with 272/272's and while you're in there add some springs and retainers.

O.P. if you plan on doing the valve springs yourself look in to picking up this - http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/t...ompressor.html . It was worth every penny, and you'll end up using it more often than you think (in my case I was helping all my buddies swap cams, valve springs, and/or valve stem seals).
I agree, the stock profile is fairly close; however, an aftermarket 264 camshaft would have a different lobe separation angle and thus giving it a slightly choppy idle...if your not looking to upgrade your valvetrain a 264 upgrade would be perfect for maintaining a smooth powerband and would provide an almost stock RPM band keeping your lowend torque. The valvetrain on these cylinder heads are fairly good stock and in comparison to other 16v heads the cfm flow rate is superb for upgraded camshafts without the need to port and polish. I guess my point is that if your looking for a fairly close to stock cam that doesnt require an upgraded valvetrain then 264s are for you but why spend the money and time on that when you can kust go with a larger profile and for a measly $200 more get a valvetrain that can handle it (better safe than sorry and doing it right the first time prevents unnecessary failures). The least I personally would go would be a 264/272 set up to maintain a fairly close to stock feel without worrying too much about your valves as 272 is your limit on profile....but your still playing with fire if your valves have any wear on them or the seats are wearing down. Just because they are able to support up to a 272 you have to keep in mind that age does play a factor. Just my .02...
Old Jul 18, 2013, 10:00 PM
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Cool, just picking up an Evo hopefully. He has 264's, god knows why, but ill probably end up going 272's anywho. Thanks dudes
Old Jul 19, 2013, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkChamorro
Cool, just picking up an Evo hopefully. He has 264's, god knows why, but ill probably end up going 272's anywho. Thanks dudes
Sure enough playa!
Old Jul 19, 2013, 08:59 AM
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leaving in an hour to go pickup my gsc hi rev beehives =D

Last edited by evosnstuff; Jul 19, 2013 at 02:33 PM.
Old Jul 19, 2013, 02:37 PM
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So I was taking a look at an all data computer on a valve spring job and its said to be like a 9 hour job. My mechanic told me to look up if there's any special spring compression tools needed or do people have anything they fabbed up. I'm trying to do this right and I'm gonna look for a thread on here for valve spring replacement. Anyone have any expierience with doing valvesprings with the head still on
Old Jul 19, 2013, 02:40 PM
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Also picked up a triple gauge pod for the a pillar today for 36 bucks not bad I wanna see how it's gonna look
Old Jul 19, 2013, 03:14 PM
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75k here on the stock block and valvetrain. I installed comp 280s at 65k with zero problems.

Everyone here keeps throwing around "272" "280" etc. Even if they're called 272s it doesn't mean lift duration etc are near the same. Comp 280s are mild compared to kelford 272s.
Old Jul 19, 2013, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 420a-t
75k here on the stock block and valvetrain. I installed comp 280s at 65k with zero problems.

Everyone here keeps throwing around "272" "280" etc. Even if they're called 272s it doesn't mean lift duration etc are near the same. Comp 280s are mild compared to kelford 272s.
I was told this by someone else before also, the car doesn't have a heavy lobe in the idle it actually idles very smooth (though it idles at almost 1100) regardless I'm gonna be putting the valvesprings and retainers in hopefully soon
Old Jul 19, 2013, 04:07 PM
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If you're trying to do things right, then just spend a little more money and have someone who knows what they're doing install them.
Old Jul 19, 2013, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SRT4toEVO
If you're trying to do things right, then just spend a little more money and have someone who knows what they're doing install them.
My mechanic knows what he's doing. Doing valvesprings is the same general concept for dohc motors. No need to go pay a tuner 150/hr to do it
Old Jul 20, 2013, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by evosnstuff
So I was taking a look at an all data computer on a valve spring job and its said to be like a 9 hour job. My mechanic told me to look up if there's any special spring compression tools needed or do people have anything they fabbed up. I'm trying to do this right and I'm gonna look for a thread on here for valve spring replacement. Anyone have any expierience with doing valvesprings with the head still on
Use this - http://www.euroexportinc.com/store/t...ompressor.html. Makes the job a total breeze, and for the price it is a no-brainer.
Old Jul 20, 2013, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 420a-t
75k here on the stock block and valvetrain. I installed comp 280s at 65k with zero problems.

Everyone here keeps throwing around "272" "280" etc. Even if they're called 272s it doesn't mean lift duration etc are near the same. Comp 280s are mild compared to kelford 272s.
Ive said it before in a previous post that it is a "general rule of thumb". Obviously each manufacturer is different; and thus, validates the claim of different horsepower/torque/powerbands for the same sized camshaft. Aftermarket camshafts contain different lobe separation angles/durations/lift which provides the basis on why some lope harder or why some are more DD or idle friendly; however, the modification of valve extension and durations exceed the factory tolerance or its design and further substantiates the the need to adjust: idle tables/pulse width/timing advance/idle recovery tables/fuel trims in an attempt to gain not just additional power but maintain operational function. The larger the camshaft and more specifically the increased lift and longer durations kills the application of low end torque but increases the application of higher horsepower/torque higher in the RPM band. Because the need to rev higher to achieve the full benefit of aftermarket camshafts, being the valvetrain is already out of tolerance, it is not recommended. Stock cams are designed to achieve a balance of power and drivability as it pertains to the design limits of the associated components. Going slightly larger might not exceed tolerance limits enough to worry about but there is and always will be a limit. Thats why its a general rule that 272s require upgrading valve springs and retainers to accompany the higher rev range and increasing the components tolerance levels. To each is his own and im glad to hear that you havent had any issues with your set-up but in all precautionary measures it wouldnt be wise to suggest such upgrades based on one application, of course there are numerous members that have done it but there are an equal amount that have had the repercussions of such attempts. Do it right the first time and you wont have to worry about a failed component. Im speaking out of reasoning and fact, it might benefit you to research your equipments tolerance range before making recommendations to other members...if he makes the call based on your remarks amd is subjected to equipment failure its on his dime and not yours. Like I said, better safe than sorry...do it right the first time.
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