Someone needs to read this and explain it to us

 

here is the reason older Synthetic AND conventional oil provide better wear.... The majority of harmfull engine wear occurs on start-up. Start -up with an empty filter starves your car a few seconds longer. Multiple start-up (too many oil changes) with no oil causes premature wear. Get it?? Its not about old or new oil as much as its about starvation. You will never see a competant lube man NOT prime your oil filter. This is a must. For those of you who dont know what that means, you must fill your empty filter to the top with the new oil before spinning it on. By doing this, your engine wont suck the air out of the filter and send it through your engine. It will immediately suck oil. Tell where ever you take your car to to do this. You wont be sorry. Ime a CAT lube tech for many a year. It kills me to see people starve their precious rides!!! RRR

 

I think some of you missed the "Interpreting Wear Metals" section on this page: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html.

"While the wear metals all accumulated steadily over the course of the test, the highest concentrations of accumulation per mile occurred in the first 3,000 miles of the test! From the 3,000-mile mark all the way to 18,000 miles, only lead showed an increase in per-mile wear beyond 3,000 miles"

And that is why they suggest that frequent oil changes may be worse on the engine as opposed to longer intervals. They did not do a study on the first few seconds of engine wear after an oil change, they did a long term oil analysis study.

 

I believe they said they filled the filter before changing it, but I could be wrong...

very good advice tho', for anyone that didn't already know to do that

 

Very informative study, however we must remember that a low revving, low cylinder pressure, high torque(at very low rpms) V8 engine can hardly be compared to an Evo engine. We deal with 135.5 hp per liter to start with. The 5.7 liter in the study car would have to produce 772.35 hp to equal the amount of stress that our engines go through. Our Evo's, like mine, can easily produce 400 crankshaft hp (with stock internals) with few mods. At this rate the GM 5.7 liter would have to produce 1140hp to equal the stress of our little 2 liter!!!!! . At that stress level (and high rpm's needed to get there) our 2.0 will produce more blow-by, more wear on metal surfaces, more heat that WILL dramatically reduce the life of synthetic oil. If you read the reports they claim a syrup like color when they rechecked the oil at intervals. My oil looks BLACK at like 1500 after changing the oil. After being a technician for over 8 years I have never seen a turbocharged car's engine oil look any different after very low mileage. Its completely normal for those that really drive their cars the way they were meant to be driven. I always suggest changing the oil at no more than 3500 miles, less if you can afford it.

 

One thing to remember on Porsche drain intervals (the 911s/930s anyway, not sure about the others) is that they run a lot more oil in their systems (I think my old 930 was like 10 qts). Presumably, that has a positive effect on oil longevity...

JW

 

911's from 1965 to 1998 (aircooled), 996 Turbo, GT2 and GT3 use a dry sump type oil system. This system is MUCH more effective than a wet sump system. The biggest difference between the two systems is that there is no oil starvation during hard cornering. If you guys think that the motor oil has to work hard inside an EVO motor consider this, 993 Turbo (400 hp) is completely aircooled running in AZ summer heat (100 to 130 in the shade) with the AC on in stop and go traffic. The oil temps easily approaching 230 degrees to sometimes 260 degrees! Even with this Porsche only recommends 15,000 oil services!


Winston

Hello.....colateralgees!

 

i use mobile 1 for my evo (as stated) but as for cold weather, i am not too worried. i use 10-30w 9 month of the year while 3 month of 5-30w during the cold season. 3.5k oil change interval for me

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mifesto
i use mobile 1 for my evo (as stated) but as for cold weather, i am not too worried. i use 10-30w 9 month of the year while 3 month of 5-30w during the cold season. 3.5k oil change interval for me [/QU

Mobil one has 0-40w if you are interested.

Winston

 

Evom is coming back around... good food for thought...

 

yep, definetely coming around

 

i dont want to put 0-40w cuz the manual didnt say to.. im actually following the manual as closely as i can

 

Interesting. I wonder if the wear decreases because of the increase in metal in the oil. Maybe Mobil should start selling broken in oil or something. Maybe they could add some copper, aluminum, etc to their oil. Copper does have a natural lubricating property, maybe the increase in copper is preventing wear

I found the Amsoil analysis on the same website; only up to 4K miles so far:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

 

I am surprised that no one has brought up the fact that on 4g63's and all turbo cars for that matter the oil passes through the center cartridge and bearing at 1200-1500 degrees. All those with EGT gauges know this already. Thermal viscosity breakdown however better with full synthetics such as Mobil1 surely becomes a factor in oil life and changing frequency. It sure helps blacken your oil even at 3000 mile changes. The blowby and leakdown of contaminants past the rings in these highly boosted motors also degrades the oil faster than a normally aspirated motor. I didn't read the artice in full, but didn't hear anyone mention a turbo engine in the study.

 

The increased wear in the first 3K is not as bad as they make it seem. The copper is the metal that increases most, and they seem to think it is coming from the cam bearings breaking in still.