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Cracked Piston/Engine build recommendation?

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Old Jul 31, 2013, 03:27 PM
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Cracked Piston/Engine build recommendation?

So I cracked number 4 piston. Oil was getting into #4 cylinder due to a headgasket leak. The middle ring was shattered and fell apart when I removed the rod/piston.


I just had my cylinder head machined and replaced 2 exhaust valves. Now I'm wondering what I should do for the bottom end. I was looking at Manly H-beams but read they are made in china. What are some strong piston/rod combos available that will be able to support upwards of 600hp

I will be keeping the engine 2.0 using the AMS gt35r turbokit.

One combo I was looking at were Manly I-Beams w/ AMS spec pistons which Id be looking at over 1,600 dollars with bearings.

Also even though I've been a DIYer since I touched a car, Ill be sending my block in to be machined and then rotating assembly assembled because I feel nervous about how to check rod bolt stretch and bearing clearances.
Old Jul 31, 2013, 05:07 PM
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Manley Turbo Tuff rods and Wiseco 1400HD is the most recommended around here. Other brands like CP, Mahle, JE are also good for pistons. It's all personally preference.
Old Jul 31, 2013, 07:11 PM
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Build will depend on your goals for the car, as well as your budget. As far as your concern with the Manley rods, I'm using the H-beams and making 408hp/391tq on a 2.3L. I have no problems with my car because I did not try to make 70,000hp with the parts I bought. Have a goal and budget together, and build for what you want to accomplish.

Another option is to find a used, good condition block, reassemble, and go.
Old Jul 31, 2013, 07:47 PM
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Why not build a 2.2-2.3 and have more torque. Sure it may not last 120K miles because of side loading on the piston but it will be much more fun for 40K+. It can still be turned 7500ish
As far as rods being made in china.. Pretty much everything is made overseas and either boxed or "finished" in the USA. They are all pretty good.
Whatever road you take make sure the engine builder is good and checks that it was properly main bored/honed and sets the ring gap within spec. It will also need a proper break in to seat the new rings. Properly broke in engines make more power and have better ring seal.
Old Aug 1, 2013, 01:45 AM
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Thanks guys for the input. I'm not really interested atm in going 2.2 or 2.3. If I wanted to go that route I think Id go with a 4g64 shortblock, which is an option i haven't really looked into and understand what else is involved in a build like that.

My block didn't suffer any damage to the cylinder walls so Ill just need a light hone. Engine only had 40k miles on it. As far as the engine builder, AMS is pretty close by and I will most likely send it out to them if it fits my 4k budget

Last edited by Ekoy; Aug 1, 2013 at 01:46 AM. Reason: Didn't complete my post
Old Aug 1, 2013, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Ekoy
Thanks guys for the input. I'm not really interested atm in going 2.2 or 2.3. If I wanted to go that route I think Id go with a 4g64 shortblock, which is an option i haven't really looked into and understand what else is involved in a build like that.

My block didn't suffer any damage to the cylinder walls so Ill just need a light hone. Engine only had 40k miles on it. As far as the engine builder, AMS is pretty close by and I will most likely send it out to them if it fits my 4k budget
4k is a good budget to rebuild the block. Rehone and surface the block is a must. Get the head checked too. Depends on your power goals now to determine parts you need. Good luck man.
Old Aug 1, 2013, 02:58 PM
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Not trying to flame you but it would be hard to believe that a boosted engine with 40K would have perfect cylinder walls. At the expense of rebuilding the engine to save a few hundred bucks on a rebore doesn't seem like a good idea. Ring seal is everything.
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