Budget Engine build.
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Budget Engine build.
Has anyone ever thought about how cheaply they could build a long block?
like a factory equivalent..
just got into 83k and looks like from some Blackstone results I've got a head gasket leak and excessive (Al) wear.
I've been thinking about doing a functional-build...
junkyard block - 100-300
Used- internals - 200 (lower-ish mileage parts. do fluorescent micro-fracture checks)
New- gaskets, seals, studs, bearings, rings, - 300-500
maybe transfer a few parts from the other engine when I do the swap.
My thought is from an engineering stand point a lot of the used parts have <60k and stress wise could be pretty ok; run each part through an inspection prior to.
Thinking long term probably wont last as long but if I had a system I could always have spare.
I'm thinking if i take my time to haggle and find good deals <$1500 for a running longblock?
am I crazy?
like a factory equivalent..
just got into 83k and looks like from some Blackstone results I've got a head gasket leak and excessive (Al) wear.
I've been thinking about doing a functional-build...
junkyard block - 100-300
Used- internals - 200 (lower-ish mileage parts. do fluorescent micro-fracture checks)
New- gaskets, seals, studs, bearings, rings, - 300-500
maybe transfer a few parts from the other engine when I do the swap.
My thought is from an engineering stand point a lot of the used parts have <60k and stress wise could be pretty ok; run each part through an inspection prior to.
Thinking long term probably wont last as long but if I had a system I could always have spare.
I'm thinking if i take my time to haggle and find good deals <$1500 for a running longblock?
am I crazy?
#6
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The risk you'll take in buying used parts alone isn't worth it. Not only does the vigorous inspection require a ton of extra effort, the first time you have to send back a bunch defective used parts, you've already put in too much effort.
If you're really into building, there are cheap enough brand new aftermarket parts out there. You might spend a little more than you're accounting for, but like someone else said, pull it once and do it right.
If you're really into building, there are cheap enough brand new aftermarket parts out there. You might spend a little more than you're accounting for, but like someone else said, pull it once and do it right.
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#11
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So far I have done everything the right way with all new parts and fully forged and still had issues. Looking back I would never cut corners by going cheap as you want longevity from the motor and new parts is peace of mind and sometimes a warranty
#15
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To build a quality engine using US made parts it is quite a bill to front.
First off you need to take the block to a machine shop. If the bore is still straight and rod all you will need is a quick hone. Bolting the torque plate to the block will help to see how worn it is.
If the block is good you can throw some ARP bolts in the rods and get then reconditioned.
New set of rings, new bearings, polish crank, new gaskets, and your in on a budget that should hold north of 400 all day with a proper tune.
First off you need to take the block to a machine shop. If the bore is still straight and rod all you will need is a quick hone. Bolting the torque plate to the block will help to see how worn it is.
If the block is good you can throw some ARP bolts in the rods and get then reconditioned.
New set of rings, new bearings, polish crank, new gaskets, and your in on a budget that should hold north of 400 all day with a proper tune.