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Braided Hose or Hard-Line for ACD Relocation

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Old Nov 23, 2013, 07:37 PM
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Braided Hose or Hard-Line for ACD Relocation

Gents

I am relocating my ACD pump to the trunk.
Brake lines are hard-lines, as are ACD lines except for the short connection hoses.
The hydraulic pressure is 20Bar or ~300psi.

The Hard-Line is cheap, but more involving for installation.

Braided Hose (PTFE SST304 Braided Aeroquip or comparable quality) is expensive, but far easier to install.

Now the concern: Braided Hose may be slightly flexible(relative to hard-pipe), will this affect ACD functionality?
Should I swallow the bitter pill and install a Hard-Line, save a few $, and minimize potential for hose-expansion and any negative effect this may have?

I will appreciate if your input is based on experience and solid technical knowledge.
As mechanical engineer making a technical decision, only irrefutable data-supported advice, suggestions, and guidance, can help me make the right decision.

Thank you
Old Nov 23, 2013, 09:49 PM
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I used ptfe braided ss hose. IMO if I had to do it again I would try to use hard line. It is much easier to route, and can bend and clearance around parts better.
Old Nov 24, 2013, 01:29 AM
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Thank you for feedback TommiM

I was planning to route under the car, where there is not much to move around.
I was going to use AeroQuip SST304 Braided PTFE brake-hose with Nylon sleeve to limit abrasion, typically used for higher-end aftermarket and race brake lines

Maybe I am overlooking some challenges under the car, but it seemed pretty clear from trunk forward to ACD unit.

Seemed easier than running a hard-pipe that yo have to lay out feeding a little at the time.
The braided line is flexible enough to be simply layer out, than when satisfied fastened

If you have more advice, I am listening


And do you remember or can get me Hydraulic connections part#'s and hydraulic line size?
What about electrical connectors- did you just extend wires or make a harness with new connectors on each end?

Thank you again
Old Nov 24, 2013, 05:34 AM
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If it were me, I would go to a local hydraulic hose supplier and have them make one. I would get hoses made all day for our TBM, some go to 10,000psi which is unecessary for an Evo ACD, but they make much lower pressure stuff ~1,500psi and it would be felixible for easy install
Old Nov 24, 2013, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by alpinaturbo
Thank you for feedback TommiM

I was planning to route under the car, where there is not much to move around.
I was going to use AeroQuip SST304 Braided PTFE brake-hose with Nylon sleeve to limit abrasion, typically used for higher-end aftermarket and race brake lines

Maybe I am overlooking some challenges under the car, but it seemed pretty clear from trunk forward to ACD unit.

Seemed easier than running a hard-pipe that yo have to lay out feeding a little at the time.
The braided line is flexible enough to be simply layer out, than when satisfied fastened

If you have more advice, I am listening


And do you remember or can get me Hydraulic connections part#'s and hydraulic line size?
What about electrical connectors- did you just extend wires or make a harness with new connectors on each end?

Thank you again

In my case, the goal was to make a clean routing, away from anything that moves, and tuck it cleanly as possible, and look like it could be as oem as possible. My pump is sitting in the trunk.

here it is routed out of the trunk. Sorry for the blurry pic, it was dark, cold, and taken from the garage floor on my old iphone.



Its not really a daily driver so the pump being in the trunk is not an issue. My main criteria was to get it out of the elements. You can see the two bolts with washers where the pump is bolted to. There I also wrapped the lines with electrical tape a bit to protect them from any rubbing near those bolts. I took away any slack in that area, but that was an added measure.

Here a better pic of the routing.





The fitting to the transfer case.


I cant find the rest where its actually finished up. Basically heres is how I routed it and why I would have preferred a hard line.
the line comes out from the under the trunk spare tire well, goes over the subframe and around the tank, routed next to the brake hard lines. The ss line fit nicely there, but around the rear tank area I could have hid that line and tucked it in nicer with a hard line. Next I routed on the through the passenger side. I secured it with rubber lined clamps that were attached on the inside of the frame rail so if you had to jack the car up there would never be an issue of damaging the line.

Coming up through the engine bay I tucked it underneath the oem heatshields to protect it from heat and as a barrier so the line doesn't flop around any moving parts in that area.

All in all I used about 13-15 ft of line. The line I used was a ptfe line with a crimped on fitting done for me at a hydraulic shop. It was -6 AN iirc. As recommended to me, the fitting adapter at the transfercase must use the O-ring and crush washer for it to seal right.

The wiring I just extended into the passenger compartment. I found a good ground in the back. No issues or leaks with it yet. Its working fine so far.


With a hard line you can bend it to get the angles you want. You can secure it better imo, and is pretty durable. It was tricky for me finding a clean transition coming out of the rear tank area where it wouldn't hang down or be too close to the exhaust or driveshaft.

I cant remember exactly what it was but I did see on UK ebay someone selling an oem hard line for the acd or ayc for their setups that had the pumps back there from the factory. That could be another option.

Depending on where in Cali you are, your welcome to stop by and check it out as well.

Last edited by TommiM; Nov 24, 2013 at 09:29 AM.
Old Nov 24, 2013, 09:57 AM
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found some other pics.






There aren't too many pics or folks willing to share a lot of this info so hopefully these pics can give you an idea of how you want to do yours. Im willing to share the info so anything I can help/answer just hit me up.
Old Nov 24, 2013, 10:10 AM
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Awesome TommiM

I am still in for braided line.
Because if I get some 15ft of it, I can simply install it, and fastened as required after its laied out.
I think your transformation is excellent.

On subject of wiring, it sounds like you simply cut off connectors, extended the wires through the cabin, and reattached connectors: is this correct?

I would prefer to make a jumper-harness, although I cannot imagine moving back the ACD unit.
Its the "reversible upgrade" person speaking.
Old Nov 24, 2013, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by alpinaturbo
Awesome TommiM

I am still in for braided line.
Because if I get some 15ft of it, I can simply install it, and fastened as required after its laied out.
I think your transformation is excellent.

On subject of wiring, it sounds like you simply cut off connectors, extended the wires through the cabin, and reattached connectors: is this correct?

I would prefer to make a jumper-harness, although I cannot imagine moving back the ACD unit.
Its the "reversible upgrade" person speaking.
Ya, that's all I did. Cutoff the wires and extended them using the same connectors. I soldered the connections, and honestly even that is easily reversible, just cut and resolder to the original configuration. The only thing is Im not completely happy with how I routed in the cabin, and will later modify that section. I routed in through a passenger side grommet of the 'tunnel', underneath the carpet coming out the middle and joins the rear harnesses up through the passenger side and into the trunk.

I found a harness cover for a Mercedes C300 that will hide nicely the wiring in the trunk, and protect it from rubbing and what not. It fundamentally works, its just those small details to pretty up my project that I need to finish up is all that's needed.
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