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Coolant Temp Gauge Wont Rise

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Old Jan 25, 2014, 09:11 PM
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Coolant Temp Gauge Wont Rise-bx4roqv.jpg Incase you needed it.
Old Jan 25, 2014, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
So I just went outside and proceeded to do this. When I turned on the car it started to creep higher and then went back down again. I let it idle for about 7 minutes then shut it off. The overflow is topped exactly to the top so we shall see where that goes and I did not touch the cap.

I wonder why it started to creep up again and then went back down again...still air?
Something else to consider, your thermostat could be sticking. If it is stuck open it would take a real long time to get to Operating temperature.
Old Jan 25, 2014, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
So I just went outside and proceeded to do this. When I turned on the car it started to creep higher and then went back down again. I let it idle for about 7 minutes then shut it off. The overflow is topped exactly to the top so we shall see where that goes and I did not touch the cap.

I wonder why it started to creep up again and then went back down again...still air?
Its probably purging the air out, or trying to.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 07:37 AM
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So I just went out this morning and it appears that it took a tiny bit of coolant from the spilover. I was thinking great its finally out. So I turned the car on and let it warm up. The gauge was slowly rising like normal then BAM it dropped back down again.

I think there is still air in the system. Im not sure what to do at this point as I continue to bleed it but it doesnt seam to want to work. I might go out and rent a pressure tester however Im not really sure how thatll help.

This is so frustrating as its usually such a simple task. I really need to figure this out soon or else I'm out of a means of transportation.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
Incase you needed it.
As I've been saying I really dont think its something mechanical here as the car was perfect prior. The only thing that makes sense is an air bubble.

I've had my thermostat go bad before and the car temp would still rise but just not very far. This is sitting at the bottom. Bad sensor is also very highly unlikely IMO
Old Jan 26, 2014, 07:59 AM
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Ive been in that same situation. A stubborn air pocket like that you may just have to drive it a few miles and keep checking on the coolant level. Ive had to put like 5-7 miles with the defroster on full blast, going uphill to get it to purge. They can be stubborn.

A pressure tester will pressurize the coolant system, mechanically open the thermostat, and allow coolant to get behind it, and everywhere. Think of like when you pressure bleed your brakes. Its just an idea, simple enough to try if you have easy access to one.

When the car cools down this morning check the coolant level in the radiator and just make sure its actually topped off still.

Last edited by TommiM; Jan 26, 2014 at 08:01 AM.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:19 AM
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Yeah I checked it this morning and I thought it was gunna be fine as it was topped off and the spillover had a little coolant taken out of it. And as I said the needle did start to rise and then it fell again.

Im a little too nervous to drive the car around as it. I hate that its idling in the first place.

What is the process for using the pressure tester thing? Ill go out and get one right now if itll solve my issue.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:24 AM
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It seems like I've gotten nowhere. I cant believe its taken me longer to bleed my cooling system then the rest of the install

At this point, do you think maybe draining the coolant and starting over might be a good idea?

I don't mind going out and renting a tool but I want to be positive that itll get the job done or else Ill have wasted another couple hours driving there and back to get it.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:28 AM
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My cars temp guage was dropping out of the blue, i replaced thermostat, that didnt fix it, burped system multiple times and nothing... finally popped the connector off the temp sensor and took some sand paper to the lead and cleaned up the connection... everything is back to normal the past week and a half...

You may wanna try that as it takes way less time to mess with that than draining coolant and burping the system...

Last edited by Fast_Freddie; Jan 26, 2014 at 08:30 AM.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Yeah I checked it this morning and I thought it was gunna be fine as it was topped off and the spillover had a little coolant taken out of it. And as I said the needle did start to rise and then it fell again.

Im a little too nervous to drive the car around as it. I hate that its idling in the first place.

What is the process for using the pressure tester thing? Ill go out and get one right now if itll solve my issue.

The idea is to use it to manually try to purge the air bubble out. First step is to make sure the radiator is topped off, doesn't need to be spilling over, just make sure there is at the very least, decently filled up. Find the adapter that matches our style of radiator caps and put it on. Slowly pump it, at first to 5 psi and hold it. This is just to verify you made a solid connection so when you pump it higher its not gonna spray on you--- ask me how I know.

Anyhow, slowly pump it to 15 psi., and hold it. Two things, this should solve your dilemma and will test your system for any leaks. It should hold 15 psi and at most drop 2-3 psi in a half hour. You don't need to wait this long, this is just if you want to test for leaks. 1 to 2 minutes max I would think, but really its instantly as your manually pumping the system.

Slowly loosen the adapter to depressurize the system, again I stress SLOWLY or it may spray coolant all over. If your successful and the air pocket is purged you will see the coolant level in the radiator will have dropped a bit.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
My cars temp guage was dropping out of the blue, i replaced thermostat, that didnt fix it, burped system multiple times and nothing... finally popped the connector off the temp sensor and took some sand paper to the lead and cleaned up the connection... everything is back to normal the past week and a half...

You may wanna try that as it takes way less time to mess with that than draining coolant and burping the system...
Its not that its dropping out of the blue though. This happened after I just finished up installing a new turbo. Because a couple coolant lines were off to go to the turbo and the radiator had been removed I needed to rebleed the system and purge it of air (something I have done countless times now)

Given that the temp isnt rising this is why Im convinced its a simple air pocket and not something mechanical.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Fast_Freddie
My cars temp guage was dropping out of the blue, i replaced thermostat, that didnt fix it, burped system multiple times and nothing... finally popped the connector off the temp sensor and took some sand paper to the lead and cleaned up the connection... everything is back to normal the past week and a half...

You may wanna try that as it takes way less time to mess with that than draining coolant and burping the system...

It may be a connection issue, but doing this will at least eliminate one possibility. I recently had this same issue when I put my motor back together. I actually replaced both temp senders. the temp sensor to the cluster and the sensor to the ecu. Both were new oem pieces. The way heel2toes gauge seems to be acting up was similar so I do believe it may be a stubborn air pocket.

I may get flamed for this but I personally hate using those spill free funnel coolant fillers. Ive done hundreds of coolant flushes the way I posted with no issues, but the few times Ive used those funnel tools it didn't work quite as well. That's just my input, theres more than one way to skin a cat.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TommiM
The idea is to use it to manually try to purge the air bubble out. First step is to make sure the radiator is topped off, doesn't need to be spilling over, just make sure there is at the very least, decently filled up. Find the adapter that matches our style of radiator caps and put it on. Slowly pump it, at first to 5 psi and hold it. This is just to verify you made a solid connection so when you pump it higher its not gonna spray on you--- ask me how I know.

Anyhow, slowly pump it to 15 psi., and hold it. Two things, this should solve your dilemma and will test your system for any leaks. It should hold 15 psi and at most drop 2-3 psi in a half hour. You don't need to wait this long, this is just if you want to test for leaks. 1 to 2 minutes max I would think, but really its instantly as your manually pumping the system.

Slowly loosen the adapter to depressurize the system, again I stress SLOWLY or it may spray coolant all over. If your successful and the air pocket is purged you will see the coolant level in the radiator will have dropped a bit.
Perfect, thanks for the explanation. That seems to make sense and should resolve the issue. Just curious though when I am pressurizing the system since Im pushing from the top of the radiator where is it forcing the air to i.e how is the air bubble being relieved from the system? Where does it go to?

Also is 15psi enough to open the thermostat? When I last replaced it I remember the spring being pretty stiff....I just want to be careful not to over pressurize it and have it **** out of the weep hole on my waterpump.

This is beyond frustrating. I love working on my car but s**t like this really gets to me
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TommiM
It may be a connection issue, but doing this will at least eliminate one possibility. I recently had this same issue when I put my motor back together. I actually replaced both temp senders. the temp sensor to the cluster and the sensor to the ecu. Both were new oem pieces. The way heel2toes gauge seems to be acting up was similar so I do believe it may be a stubborn air pocket.

I may get flamed for this but I personally hate using those spill free funnel coolant fillers. Ive done hundreds of coolant flushes the way I posted with no issues, but the few times Ive used those funnel tools it didn't work quite as well. That's just my input, theres more than one way to skin a cat.


I used to do it the other way then decided to invest in a spillfree funnel and have used it probably 5 times now with no issues.

And as I was saying to others (since you seem to be the only one who also thinks its an air bubble) I dont see why all of a sudden it would act up when it never did before and I didnt touch any of those things? If it were out of the blue sure but since its after im trying to refill and bleed it the only thing that makes sense is an air bubble.
Old Jan 26, 2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Perfect, thanks for the explanation. That seems to make sense and should resolve the issue. Just curious though when I am pressurizing the system since Im pushing from the top of the radiator where is it forcing the air to i.e how is the air bubble being relieved from the system? Where does it go to?

Also is 15psi enough to open the thermostat? When I last replaced it I remember the spring being pretty stiff....I just want to be careful not to over pressurize it and have it **** out of the weep hole on my waterpump.

This is beyond frustrating. I love working on my car but s**t like this really gets to me

Ya 15 psi is plenty for our cars,you should be fine, you wont pop a seal unless its already faulty anyways.

In the FSB 14-4, it actually states to pump to 23 psi, that seems a bit high, I dont know if I am confortable with the specs Mitsu is telling us, I say stick with 15, its plenty for diag and purging purposes.


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